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11 Posts
...continued from
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=96604
Exhibit A, stock cushion rods, or "dogbones" or "lowering links" as they're are popularly called.
![]()
Lowering link I purchased from JDAcustom.com. Relatively inexpensive and made of 7075 aluminum alloy; on paper, the better of the aluminum alloys on the market.
I was concerned about aluminum not being strong enough and being able to do the job of steel, but apparently the 7075 has yield strength of at least 63,000 - 69,000 psi (stress before the metal deforms), so I figured it should be ok. Watch out for dogbones made out of the cheaper, 6061 alloys - they are considerably weaker; I wouldn't want it to snap at my most excellent moment.
6061-O has a yield strength no more than 8,000 psi
6061-T4 has a yield strength of at least 16,000 psi
6061-T6 has a yield strength of 35,000 psi
For comparison, a high strength alloy steel ASTM A514 has yield strength of 100,000 psi. Stainless steel is about 75,000 psi.
source: wikipedia
![]()
Since I was going to use the hydraulic jack to compress the rear shock absorber, I decided to try and secure the bike to the rear stand as best I could. I feared that the bike might dislodge itself from the stand and come crashing down - making for a very bad day. I was having none of it.
![]()
I secured it with some nylon string, and rope. Taking care to keep it tight and prevent any unnecessary movement once the bike is on the jack.
![]()
Kind of half-assed, last-minute - but definitely did the trick. I figured half-assery x10 should be strong enough.
![]()
Prior to jacking it up, I was able to take the nuts off. It took quite some effort - the nuts were caked on there something awful.
![]()
Very carefully position the jack under the rear cushion lever and play around with the jackin' height.
You're compressing the shock absorber such that the pressure is taken off the bolts, making them slide out through the other side with minimal effort.
Make sure the bike is not too high, such as to lift the front wheel off the ground, and having the beast balanced on just the rear stand and the small point of contact that is the jack. Failure to secure the rear stands to the spools, might result in the bike landing on you.
![]()
On the other side, the bolt with the spacer sliding out. Leave the spacer in the hole and don't touch it with your grimey hands...you'll introduce grit and grime to it, and that will mess up the bearings with which it makes contact.
![]()
![]()
I neglected my own advice and touched it. I had to clean it off and put some fresh grease on it.
![]()
The links holes were a bit snug (to say the least) so I had to slightly re-drill them. Enough to make them manageable.
![]()
![]()
Installation is reverse of removal. Link installed with the middle lowering hole in use. Tighten up the bolts using 56.5 ft/lb torque, per user manual.
![]()
Great Success indeed!
![]()
Relatively simple on paper; more complicated if you've never held a wrench before.
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=96604
Exhibit A, stock cushion rods, or "dogbones" or "lowering links" as they're are popularly called.
Lowering link I purchased from JDAcustom.com. Relatively inexpensive and made of 7075 aluminum alloy; on paper, the better of the aluminum alloys on the market.
I was concerned about aluminum not being strong enough and being able to do the job of steel, but apparently the 7075 has yield strength of at least 63,000 - 69,000 psi (stress before the metal deforms), so I figured it should be ok. Watch out for dogbones made out of the cheaper, 6061 alloys - they are considerably weaker; I wouldn't want it to snap at my most excellent moment.
6061-O has a yield strength no more than 8,000 psi
6061-T4 has a yield strength of at least 16,000 psi
6061-T6 has a yield strength of 35,000 psi
For comparison, a high strength alloy steel ASTM A514 has yield strength of 100,000 psi. Stainless steel is about 75,000 psi.
source: wikipedia
Since I was going to use the hydraulic jack to compress the rear shock absorber, I decided to try and secure the bike to the rear stand as best I could. I feared that the bike might dislodge itself from the stand and come crashing down - making for a very bad day. I was having none of it.
I secured it with some nylon string, and rope. Taking care to keep it tight and prevent any unnecessary movement once the bike is on the jack.
Kind of half-assed, last-minute - but definitely did the trick. I figured half-assery x10 should be strong enough.
Prior to jacking it up, I was able to take the nuts off. It took quite some effort - the nuts were caked on there something awful.
Very carefully position the jack under the rear cushion lever and play around with the jackin' height.
You're compressing the shock absorber such that the pressure is taken off the bolts, making them slide out through the other side with minimal effort.
Make sure the bike is not too high, such as to lift the front wheel off the ground, and having the beast balanced on just the rear stand and the small point of contact that is the jack. Failure to secure the rear stands to the spools, might result in the bike landing on you.
On the other side, the bolt with the spacer sliding out. Leave the spacer in the hole and don't touch it with your grimey hands...you'll introduce grit and grime to it, and that will mess up the bearings with which it makes contact.
I neglected my own advice and touched it. I had to clean it off and put some fresh grease on it.
The links holes were a bit snug (to say the least) so I had to slightly re-drill them. Enough to make them manageable.
Installation is reverse of removal. Link installed with the middle lowering hole in use. Tighten up the bolts using 56.5 ft/lb torque, per user manual.
Great Success indeed!
Relatively simple on paper; more complicated if you've never held a wrench before.
