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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, and 04 sv1k, stock electrical system. I lost both low beams yesterday, high beams work fine, as do the running lights. I have power at the fuse, and at the switch, and at the connector. but if I plug the 6 pin harness in, I'm not getting power on the light side of the connector. I seems like my test light is dimmer at the connector than the switch. (multimeter at the office),.

Any ideas? Is there anything obvious that I'm missing?
 

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I don't mean to insult your intelligence or anything, but are you sure that both low beams were working prior to this? What I mean is could there be a chance that you've been running around with only one light working and then when the second one blew, that's when you noticed it? It might not hurt to pull the bulb and check the filament. If you're sure they both went at the same time, than it's astronomically unlikely that both filaments burned out simultaneously (unless an electrical problem caused it), though, I would still check one of the filaments for completeness sake.
 

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Both lowbeams share a common ground w/ the highbeams, soo you know its not a grounding issue.....i think you may have blown BOTH bulbs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IMdying, my multimeter was at the office, so I was working with a test light.

So after tracing everything behind the fairing this weekend, it looks like I've located either a loose wire or a short circuit, which I suppose is good news. When I manipulate the shrink-wrapped wiring coming in from the left side under the tank, I can get the low beams to work briefly. It's definitely not forward of the neck, it's underneath the tank.

The question is, is there a junction of some kind under there? OR is it just a wire loom that runs from the batter all the way through?
 

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I don't know that answer specifically, but if you've found the general spot in the wiring that is causing your issues, just lift the tank and cut off the heat shrink from around the wires, and I'd imagine the problem should be fairly obvious. Putting new heat shrink tubing on is a very easy process.
 

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I had this problem 2 weeks ago it ended up being my headlight switch. The solder had cracked and the wire was loose. Really easy fix just took apart the switch and soldered the wire back on. It took me forever to figure this out, I had the whole nose fairing off because I thought that one of the harness connections had burned up but luckily It was not that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's not the switch, I'm getting voltage after it, so I've ruled that out. When I wiggle the shrink wrapped wiring coming from under the tank, I can get power to the curcuit. I'll have to pull the air box and get into where the wiring is, I was just wondering if I'm tugging on wiring that runs all the way through, or if I'm tugging on a junction. If it's a junction, it might be a bad connection, which would mean I wouldn't need to necessarily start looking for a bad wire section under the shrink wrap.
 

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If you take off the nose cowl there is a 6 pin connector that goes to the lights you probably have a burnt pin. The connector sits right behind the cluster
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are any of you guys actually reading what I'm writing? :)

It's not in the nose. The issue is located somewhere in the wiring that runs under the tank. I've had the entire nose off, and went at it with the multimeter, and there's no issue with any of that wiring. I'm just trying to get an idea of what I should expect to find underneath the tank/air box once I have a chance to pull it out.
 

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I was just wondering if I'm tugging on wiring that runs all the way through, or if I'm tugging on a junction. If it's a junction, it might be a bad connection, which would mean I wouldn't need to necessarily start looking for a bad wire section under the shrink wrap.
Agree. I had a issue like this on another bike which ended up being a loose connection, so look for that prior to cutting any shrink wrap.
 

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Are any of you guys actually reading what I'm writing? :)

It's not in the nose. The issue is located somewhere in the wiring that runs under the tank. I've had the entire nose off, and went at it with the multimeter, and there's no issue with any of that wiring. I'm just trying to get an idea of what I should expect to find underneath the tank/air box once I have a chance to pull it out.
It literally takes 1.5 minutes to lift the tank, less if you work fast. Just do it and see what you find. If you possess the skills to work your multimeter and/or test light, lifting the tank and visually following the wires should be a cake walk. If you also have to remove the airbox, then it's a bit more complicated. However, either way, knowing whether you have a connector or not once you get there really won't help you one bit. You've likely found the source of your problems, now it's just getting in there and nailing down the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the harness link Rman...I'm guessing the issue is somewhere between where the harness goes under the tank and the cluster of connectors underneath. I'll have to pull the tank and get under there this weekend, I haven't had a chance to get in there this week.
 
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