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I did not ask, Why do you need a rear brake?

I ask, When do you need to lock the rear brake, and slide the rear wheel?


The lightened rear rotor still brakes...

It just keeps the rear wheel from locking so easily...


Luis



PS: So if a deer jumps you want to lock the rear wheel... OK!!! ...Any front brake? Or you lock the front wheel too?

If you lock a wheel and crash is that the same as, "I had to lay it down!" ;D
 
If you lock wheel from braking to much and crash because of it you don't know how to ride bike or use brake.
If you use brake to its max performance than you do know how to and you will appreciate good brake.
With that said I never use rear unless I run of the track in dirt.
 
I understand that perfectly...

But, do you not seem to understand.... The use of front and rear brake is quite different from the average Dirt Bike Rider, to the average Sport Bike Rider...

Aggressive application of the front brake on a Dirt Bike, means: You are probably going down...

Aggressive application of the rear brake while cornering on a Sport Bike, means: You are probably going down...


NAME ONE ON ROAD, HIGH SPEED SITUATION, WHERE LOCKING UP THE REAR WHEEL IS CRUCIAL? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? :rimshot: ANYONE...?





Agreed, purposely drifting and sliding... Steering with the rear or steering with the throttle... All synonymous on my book of riding skills...


.
I run a 270mm galfer front rotor on my yz 250, with works brake pads, and master cylinder. It will lock easily with 1 finger on the lever. I admit to not wanting to test the locked front brake while in a turn, but in a straight line its no big deal. You get a long warning period with the front locked and have time to let go.

Its not as if I go around a track and do this three times a lap or anything, but when it does happen, the reaction of the bike is nothing like the highside videos shown on the street and is semi-easy to deal with.
 
just to throw my 1cent in, a slight drag of the rear brake mid corner will tighten the line as if you decreased the throttle without upsetting the chassis. Notice I said a "slight" drag. You have to be skilled and proficient in the use of both brakes to be able to get the most out of the braking system. And, you have to know how your own bike's brakes respond to braking at the limit. Most riders imo learn to brake at a certain skill level, then decide that's all they need to know. They don't practice in a lot at slower speeds to find that point of wheel lockup and how to respond. They don't know how much pressure it takes on their bike to lock up each wheel. This skill doesn't come naturally to most people. Not relevant to this discussion, but both Rossi and Stoner use the front and rear brake and throttle at the same time in certain corners on their 800 motogp bikes. Now that's skill. In nine years of riding my SV, I locked the rear once, the rear drifted, I didn't panic and the slow turn I was in was completed. This happened on a patch of gravel. It's fine that some people never use their rear brake at higher speeds, only at slow speeds or making a u-turn. But I feel that you should be skilled in using the rear at speed and understand the conditions for using the rear and that milling down a rotor to reduce brake force instead of learning how to use the brake is riding on crutches at best. I know plenty of cruiser riders who don't know how to use the front brake effectively, different end of the bike, same result from poor riding knowledge. The more you know, the safer you'll be.
 
I did it to reduce weight on the rear unsprung weight...

The fact that it is harder to lock up the rear... Was just an added bonus....

I am not a heavy rear brake user, and I see no reason to lock up the rear wheel anywhere and everywhere I ride...

Stil,l the rear brake stops hard enough to stall the motor... It still brakes!!!

Also, in any low traction situation the rear wheel would still lock, at a slight pressure of the lever...

Luis



PS: Some of the guys here, are talking like we are removing the rotor, caliper, hose and master cylinder... That is not the case by far...

And, for those guys, go ahead and install a 300mm rear rotor with 4 piston caliper... ;D Maybe it will improve your stoping distance by 50%...
 
Stil,l the rear brake stops hard enough to stall the motor... It still brakes!!!

Also, in any low traction situation the rear wheel would still lock, at a slight pressure of the lever...
Of course it will lock with low traction and at low speed :)
Higher the speed less effective brake will be. To stop from 100mph is not same as stopping from 30mph. More power in brakes is better to stop faster but you need to know how to use it.
 
My only valid complaint is that when riding 2up I would have to rely more on the front brake. I like to use both brakes. Agreed, when you lock up a wheel mid corner you will crash... but instead of neutering my bike for solo riding only I would rather just modulate how much pressure my foot gives... either way you are reducing braking force applied to the wheel via less functional rotor, or via more precise rider skill.

Some people need the assistance of a neutered rotor, some people want it. Some people prefer the capability to brake much harder when traction is available and weight load on the bike is higher (2up riding). This is all really just a personal preference thing. I wouldn't install it on my bike because it sacrifices too much for me... but I love the looks and if I had a track bike I would throw my money down in a heartbeat to get one.
 
And for those who seek ultimate performance, How important is the passenger seat and rear pegs?

I mean if you were to buy Ohlins race forks would you tell your suspension tuner to set it up for 2 up... So you can cruise with your girl... Seriously?

What I think is silly is the guys who think lightening the front rotors is a good idea... ;D

Luis
 
What does this product have to do with 2-up riding? Why is this even part of the discussion? Why isn't this thread in the racing discussions forum where it belongs?
 
What does this product have to do with 2-up riding? Why is this even part of the discussion? Why isn't this thread in the racing discussions forum where it belongs?
I expected more from you. This isn't a racing discussion. This is a "pimp my bros product" thread by the OP that turned into people discussing opinion and 'technique'. If this thread was 'will a lightened rear rotor help my trail braking?' thread without all the unintelligent bs responses then maybe.
 
This is a "pimp my bros product" thread by the OP
well then the OP is doing a crappy job. I asked the same product related question twice now in an attempt to drag the thread kicking and screaming back on topic & get some more info about the product and I still haven't gotten a friggin answer. Just a bunch of people yappin about how they think their riding technique or knowledge is superior to someone else's.

*unsubscribe*
 
well then the OP is doing a crappy job. I asked the same product related question twice now in an attempt to drag the thread kicking and screaming back on topic & get some more info about the product and I still haven't gotten a friggin answer. Just a bunch of people yappin about how they think their riding technique is superior than someone else's.

*unsubscribe*
It was a poor attempt in the first place, the post content is rife with misinformation and contradiction. All of which was further perpetuated by the experts here.

What do you guys think? Would King Kenny be who he is if he hadn't flattracked and MX'ed?

Maybe he shoulda just gotten a lightened rear rotor for his TZ750.
 
It was a poor attempt in the first place, the post content is rife with misinformation and contradiction.
While I don't disagree that the info was poorly delivered, I would have been interested in getting one for my race bike anyway.

1 - I never use the rear brake
2 - It's lighter (though i could just take a big crap before a race and save a pound that way)
3 - It looks pimp so it must add 5hp
 
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