So uhhh....... he's got two patterns? :magpie:

Standard is $65
Arrowhead is $90?

Is that right? :magpie:


........ :magpie:

 

So is front, if you don't know how to ride bike. More people crash with fronts than rears if you really want to go there.

I think part of the reason that I went down when I hit the deer is that the front brake locked up. Of course, I didn't have the time to touch it - but the impact of the deer pushed the brake lever hard enough to brake the end of my middle finger, with braided lines and fresh (day old) fluid, the brakes had been very solid.

So uhhh....... he's got two patterns? :magpie:

Standard is $65
Arrowhead is $90?

Is that right? :magpie:


........ :magpie:

why are you surprised? arrowhead is lighter and looks cooler but takes more machine time.

 

why are you surprised? arrowhead is lighter and looks cooler but takes more machine time.

I wasn't surprised, I was looking for clarification since it wasn't clearly outlined in the product description.... and I had to ask twice because everyone decided they'd rather go off topic than talk about the product.

 

I did it to reduce weight on the rear unsprung weight...

The fact that it is harder to lock up the rear... Was just an added bonus....

I am not a heavy rear brake user, and I see no reason to lock up the rear wheel anywhere and everywhere I ride...

Stil,l the rear brake stops hard enough to stall the motor... It still brakes!!!

Also, in any low traction situation the rear wheel would still lock, at a slight pressure of the lever...

Luis



PS: Some of the guys here, are talking like we are removing the rotor, caliper, hose and master cylinder... That is not the case by far...

And, for those guys, go ahead and install a 300mm rear rotor with 4 piston caliper... ;D Maybe it will improve your stoping distance by 50%...

 

Stil,l the rear brake stops hard enough to stall the motor... It still brakes!!!

Also, in any low traction situation the rear wheel would still lock, at a slight pressure of the lever...

Of course it will lock with low traction and at low speed
Higher the speed less effective brake will be. To stop from 100mph is not same as stopping from 30mph. More power in brakes is better to stop faster but you need to know how to use it.

 

My only valid complaint is that when riding 2up I would have to rely more on the front brake. I like to use both brakes. Agreed, when you lock up a wheel mid corner you will crash... but instead of neutering my bike for solo riding only I would rather just modulate how much pressure my foot gives... either way you are reducing braking force applied to the wheel via less functional rotor, or via more precise rider skill.

Some people need the assistance of a neutered rotor, some people want it. Some people prefer the capability to brake much harder when traction is available and weight load on the bike is higher (2up riding). This is all really just a personal preference thing. I wouldn't install it on my bike because it sacrifices too much for me... but I love the looks and if I had a track bike I would throw my money down in a heartbeat to get one.

 

And for those who seek ultimate performance, How important is the passenger seat and rear pegs?

I mean if you were to buy Ohlins race forks would you tell your suspension tuner to set it up for 2 up... So you can cruise with your girl... Seriously?

What I think is silly is the guys who think lightening the front rotors is a good idea... ;D

Luis

 

What does this product have to do with 2-up riding? Why is this even part of the discussion? Why isn't this thread in the racing discussions forum where it belongs?

 

I expected more from you. This isn't a racing discussion. This is a "pimp my bros product" thread by the OP that turned into people discussing opinion and 'technique'. If this thread was 'will a lightened rear rotor help my trail braking?' thread without all the unintelligent bs responses then maybe.

 

It does look pimp. No doubt. I would skip the OP who has 8 posts and just contact the guy over at WERA direct or Google 'Quality Machine Co'.

 

I'd have to agree with Variable, go contact Vince over on the WERA board great to talk with. I've got my rotor on the way. Easy way to save almost a pound of weight......plus taking a good crap before a race is worth 2lbs

 

I have had this done to both rear AND front. rode all summer long this way, honestly, if there even IS a real difference in breaking power its so minimal you won't even notice it.

front

rear

still PLENTY of stopping power. The main difference is your brake pad will wear about 20% faster.

 

I thought you Unsubscribed?