[Tuna]

I'm pretty sure although not positive that with the compact crankset is a new front derailleur since there is such a big drop. Everything else would just swap out though. You may need to chop a couple links from the chain. I've actually thought of switching myself, I don't know though.

Seat stays are the part that goes from the center of the rear wheel to just under the seat. Supposedly carbon helps absorb the shock through those. Chainstays are the center of the wheel to the crank (bottom bracket).

Ah...well then my seat stay is carbon also. Almost everything on the bike is.

As far as the compact crankset, how much would you estimate that kind of conversion would cost?

 

[LSCYCLING]

I've now looked and it appears that you can use the same front derailleur. So basically you just need the crankset.

 

[silversx80]

Thanks for all the info. I've really had no problems with my current saddle, but maybe I'll look into some others. Maybe I just don't realize that it sucks or something. I'm really not sure what all the numbering for the gearing means or what it's supposed to mean to me, to be honest. Any way to give me a quick run-down?

Edit: Nevermind, I figured out what you mean with the gearing numbering. Since my front sprockets (crankset?) are 53 and 39T, the fastest gearing would be 53 up front and 12 in back with my current configuration. How expensive is it to change gearing? Would I have to buy a whole new setup or can you just change to a compact crankset pretty easily?

If you're not thinking about the saddle, then don't change it. You'll know it's the wrong saddle when you balls/taint/schlong tell you... excuse my French.

Gearing works just like the motorcycle. The bigger up front, the lower the RPM. The bigger in back, the higher the RPM and visa versa.

Since you already have a Dura-Ace crankset, you may be able to just change the chainrings (gears up front). You can also find a Dura-Ace crankset on ebay for ~$200-$300. Gotta make sure you get a 10 speed (meaning 10 in the back).

I'd ride the bike some more before making any changes like that. If you feel like it's falling short somewhere, then spend the money. If it is suiting your needs, then buy bib shorts. You'll thank me later

Biggest thing right now is to make sure you've got it fit for you. Slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke w/ the balls of your feet even with the spindle (pivot of pedal) and foot parallel w/ ground. When crank arm is horizontal and ball of your foot is even with spindle, the front of your knee should be even with the spindle.

 

[Tuna]

Yeah, the first couple times I rode it, the bike hurt the taint a bit (sorry, just being short and simple here). I hadn't been riding in quite awhile though, so I'm sure that had a lot to do with it. After a few rides, it didn't bother me anymore unless I went awhile without riding again.

As far as the fit, the guy I bought it from at the bike shop had me sit on the bike and looked at me, etc. He seemed to be in a hurry, though, and didn't make any adjustments. He said it fit me well the way it was, but I still am not sure how to tell it's set up properly for me. The guy I bought it from was about the same height as me and everything. I know the frame is the proper size for me. The only difference with him is that he was about 70lbs heavier than me. There's a shop not too far from me that does "pro bicycle fitting" using Specialized's "Body Geometry Fitting System." Would it be worth the $200? Are either of you familiar with the system? :dontknow:

 

[LSCYCLING]

never used it personally. I use the heal of my foot at at the 6 o clock position should just scrap the top of the pedal. always worked for me and setup is always the same no matter what bike i ride.

 

[silversx80]

The taint shouldn't hurt, that means that you have pressure on your perineal arteries. Long term bad news. If it's your sit-bones, that's a different story. Those should hurt like hell the first few weeks. The seat is the most important part of the bike. Make sure you get the right one. I cannot stress this enough. I hear the Specialized BG saddles are REALLY nice.

Fit is just as personal as a seat. While many companies have their "scientific research" and catch phrases (Trek/Bontrager: inForm, Specialized: BG, etc), it's just a start. For example, I bought my bike the same day my GF got hers, from the same shop. They've spent probably 2-3 hours with her and setting up her bike, getting the seat right, pedals right, etc. Very comprehensive.

Me, on the other hand, they adjusted the seat height for the test ride and that was that. They know I've been riding for a while and have my comfort zone. I got home, took it for a 10-mile rid and found all my settings.

Point being, if you have no idea, the spend the $200. If you want to take the time yourself, it's a lot of fine tuning (even if you go the BG route).

Fitting yourself is pretty easy. http://sportsmedicine.about.com/cs/sport/a/bikefit.htm

 

[silversx80]

Lance, I got the Shimano Ultegra pedals (6620s). They're pretty nice.

Did a little over 100K today, this bike is SWEEEEEEET.

 

[LSCYCLING]

great choice.

I rode for 3 hours, have no idea how far it is. The last hill is a 1 mile bear. Swear it goes straight up. Yesterday I was king of the mountains today I was saying to myself "keep on turning your legs" all I could think about was the cold beer waiting at the end of the road.

Lots of ladies riding today too, made for a very enjoyable ride. I plan on getting another 3 hours tomorrow.

 

[silversx80]

Same here, beer was the motivation. 95 degrees made it pretty hot in the pack (group ride).

Speaking of lady riders, there was this one chick in the group who was a freaking mule with all her pulling. God dman.

I think tomorrow is a break, however. I did a speed workout on Thurs and pretty fast yesterday. My legs are dead, so it's upper-body at the gym after a short ride w/ the GF tomorrow.

 

[Coop]

Well since everybody totally ignored my question, I think I might try some Crank Brother "Smarty" pedals. $40 or so from Pricepoint and I wanted to keep it around $100 including shoes.

I am looking to put cross tires on my bike since I plan to ride it mostly on easy trails/paths and stay off the roads. So the Crank Brother's look like a good compromise.

 

[silversx80]

Well since everybody totally ignored my question, I think I might try some Crank Brother "Smarty" pedals. $40 or so from Pricepoint and I wanted to keep it around $100 including shoes.

I am looking to put cross tires on my bike since I plan to ride it mostly on easy trails/paths and stay off the roads. So the Crank Brother's look like a good compromise.

Sorry coop, never saw your question.

The problem with cycling gear is that if you try to save money, you'll just come back to replace it and spend more in the long run.

If you're interested, I have a set of Nike size 45 (euro) shoes. They'll fit 2 and three hole cleats. I can't remember how much time I have in them though. I also have a set of size 44 (euro, I think) Specialized mountain shoes. They have a little less them than the Nike. ... probably don't want used shoes though.

Anyway, ~$60 for shoes is the cheapest you'll want to go. For commuting, you'll want a dual-sided pedal too. I've had luck with the Shimano M-540's when I rode anything other than road. I can't remember how much they are, but ~$60-80 sounds right. They make a platform pedal too that has a clip for shoes. Check them out. Spending a little more money now will save in the long-run because of reliability and durability.

 

[Coop]

What sizes are those in US? I don't mind used as I am always on a tight budget, lol. You can PM me about them if you want.

Good point about the pedals. I plan to make the switch to a pure MTB no later than Spring (hopefully sooner) when I'll have the money to get a decent bike. For now I have to make this cheapo hybrid work for me. That was the main reason I was thinking of keeping the cost low. But I guess pedals are always something I could transfer to a new bike.

 

[silversx80]

The 44 is about 10.5 US and the 45 is probably close to 11. Check out a bike shop that deals Specialized brand shoes. See if the 44 will fit. Anyway, the 2-hole pattern is set up for the Shimano mountain bike pedals & cleats. I used them with the M-540.

If that size fits, I can send them to you for just shipping.

 

[Coop]

The 44's definitely won't fit. I didn't get to try on any 45's (This morning I went to a small bike shop located at a trail head, it's the only one I know open on Sunday's). I am thinking they may be too small too as the 44's were VERY tight.

 

[LSCYCLING]

I have even more respect for what LAnce has done this year after my ride today. I did our killer climb today it's nothing compared to what they do in the tour. It's about 2 miles and has like 6 switchbacks or something. I haven't ridden it in probably 3 years, that thing friggin' hurt. I do not remember it hurting that much. Wow.

 

[butterboy]

here are 2 of 7 bikes, Tomac eli and my old Proflex BEAST converted to single speed

You can kinda see my Motobecane behind the beast, light 24 lbs

If someone starts a let's see your ocean kayak thread I am ready for that one too.

 

["A"]

Zombie thread revival..
More cyclists among SV riders?
Just picked up a 2004 Litespeed Tuscany on FB marketplace for $850 last weekend:

My daily commuter in the underbelly:

 

[Geo Smith]

Where's the engine?

 

[Kenneth]

Nice score on the Litespeed

 

["A"]

Where's the engine?

in my legs.