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Without the padded shorts, I got used to the firm seat that was sent to me some time back. It took three days of quite a bit of pain, but it got better.

I now have padded shorts, and hope that once I start riding again (next week maybe?) it won't be so bad.

I forget...was it Joe or Lance that sent it to me? I think it was Joe. Great seat. Rather pricey. He gave it to me for shipping. I love this community.
I'm glad you like the seat, the padded shorts will definitely help when getting back into it. I started putting more miles on my bike a short time ago. After a few weeks, I can sit for about 45 minutes before the tip of my willy goes numb (TMI, I know).

I'll post pics from my next ride on Thrus. It's windy today and I hate the wind, so I'm hooking up to the trainer when I get home.
 

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What kind of seat was it? I am researching saddles and trying to get opinions on a bunch of different ones.
The one I sent to Brad was (I think) a Selle Italia San Marco Era Lux. The USPS team used to ride on that saddle... not the Lux one, which has some extra padding.

Personally, I have a Terry Fly Tri Gel. It cost around $130 and has been with me for a very comfortable 10,000+ miles in the saddle. You should go out and just try some. Some bike shops will let you do it, some won't, some have a short period in which to test it. Terry (originally only made saddles for women) has a 30-day policy. If you don't like it, return it. That's what originally made me go for it. Also, it's a triathalon saddle, so it is meant to be used by individuals who sit on it for longer periods, in an aerodynamic position, without standing.

Really, your ass is different than anyone else's ass. You need to listen to your own ass when it comes to bike saddles. ;D
 

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Sweet, congrats to her on the new bike.
I'm toying with the idea of a new rodie as well. The GF's bike is technically on layaway, but only because we were there past closing last night, there are some things she needs to get today, and some deals are only if you buy everything together. Also, if the trek card gets $2000+ put on it at once, it's 12 months no interest (we have the money, but might as well earn interest on it for 12 months), but under $2K, it's only 6 mo.

I'm going to try out some Scotts, and the Trek Madone 5.1. New toys are great!
 

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OK guys, new bikes. Yes, I finally splurged. The goal was 10,000 miles on the Trek 2100 for a new bike. I have 12,000 on it, so I figured why not?

First, the GF's bike...

2009 Trek 2.1 WSD (43cm). It's REALLY nice.




Now mine. I switched brands and got a 2009 Scott Addict R3, compact (56cm). The compact refers to the 50/34 tooth crankset (Ultegra SL gruppo). Better for climbing, and yes Lance, I only got the double.




I rode the Trek Madone 5.2, which was really comfortable and kicked the sh!t out of my 2100 on terms of speed. I then tried this little guy. The Madone feels like riding through sand compared to this speed demon. That, and the framset is just over 800 grams. WOOHOO!!!
 

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OOOOO very nice Joe. I like it I like it a lot. I wouldn't mind getting a new bike now. You didn't need a triple!!!
Thanks Lance.

I'll tell you what, though. The triple was nice going up some mountain roads in NM and UT. I may have to switch to an 11-28 cassette for my next trip to UT.

I took it out for a small 7-mile ride when I got home (too late, too dark and no lights). I got my Look KEOs on it. It's just freaking fast. Flies up hills and absorbs all kinds of shock. The Madone 5.2 is really nice, but gorram it, the Scott is just phenomenal. I can't wait for a real ride. Oh, and I need to swap my Conti GP4000s to the Scott. The Hutchison tires that came with are just not my cup of tea.
 

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Threadbump + ride report!


So I've managed to completely diss my new ride, meaning I haven't put nearly the miles on it that it wants. On Saturday, when I bought it, it was too late when I got home to ride for more than 10 miles (too dark and no lights). On Sunday I had to go out to my brother's place because of a baby dedication at his church for my niece. I didn't get home until around 6. 35 mile ride on sh!t Hutchinson Equinox tires. Lance, they suck. There is NO reason to put $25 tires on a ~$4000 bike (MSRP). Regardless of the crap tires, I managed to pull about 1 mph faster than usual... even with all the wind. SOOOOOoooooooooo much more comfortable. The bike just eats road bumps and vibrations. It is compliant over every road surface I have been on so far, yet doesn't forfeit strength and stiffness.

Hills? What hills? This thing flies like they weren't even there. You remember the Specialized commercial a few years ago (might have been Cervelo) where the cyclist is looking down the road and all the hills flatten? Yeah, it's like that. It's just so stiff that every action on the pedals is converted into forward motion.

The Shimano Ultegra compact crankset is just like butter. I love it. The only thing that is going to take some getting used to is the 16T drop from the big ring to the small. Coming from the triple (52/42/30) is a big change for me even though I hardly used the granny gear.

The biggest change for me, however, is going from the 54cm size of my Trek to the 56cm size of my Scott. The Scott also has a slightly longer stem, thinner bars and is quite a bit taller. I have more of a stretch and more of a drop with the Scott, yet I am 100% more comfortable... even on the stock saddle. It just feels like I have more room to breathe, my arms are less tired and my lower back isn't cramping whatsoever.

So that was Sunday. I can't actually remember if I road on Monday. I got my stitches out, and I don't think I rode because the weather wasn't too agreeable. OH YEAH! I remember now. I was busy trying to teach the GF how to operate her bike. She hasn't really ridden for ~15 years and never learned to operate hand-brakes and shifters, so I hooked her bike up to the trainer and had her spin while paracticing shifting. She's getting it.

I also took those Hutchinson tires off and put the Conti GP4000s on. Took that out on Tues. I have a 10-mile loop that I take for speed work. Rolling hills and low traffic. With the Conti tires on, I averaged about 2 mph faster than I would on my Trek.

The Trek will be going up for sale soon. It's definitely a good bike, but I don't imagine I'll be riding it again soon.

The Scott is just a fantastic bike. The Conti tires make it perform like it should. No regrets whatsoever, with one exception. Why didn't I do this earlier?
 

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Just bought my first set of bib shorts. Why the hell didn't I do that earlier?? I'm going back tomorrow for 1 or 2 more pair. They're the Bontrager Race X Lite, the same Team Astana wears (without the advertising, of course). Probably the most comfortable shorts I've had in 5 years of road biking. My local bike shop is selling them for $119, off of $169. I can't even find that price on ebay.
 

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bwahahahaha. Sorry couldn't help myself. Funny, my wife was just asking me on my last bike ride. Why do you use those instead of regular shorts. I'm was like, try em' and you tel me.
Holy shite, Lance! I didn't know what I was missing. I just didn't know.

Same thing with the carbon frame. How could a bike be so stiff, yet absorb so much shock from the road? (I know the answer, but I still am amazed)

Question... stick with Look, or switch to Time, Speedplay or Shimano?

The Look Keo Sprint comes in white...
 

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Hmmm. Well, since I'm already used to the Look-style, why change? The Looks are about 30-40g lighter than Shimano, so no real benefit. A wider platform may give me some extra power transfer too. I like my shoes (Shimano SH-R131), so I have to stick with the 3-bolt pattern. The Look and Shimano are roughly the same price.

It seems that all I hear is fluff about how good speedplay is. Thought I'd give them a shot, but at ~$200 I may stick with what I know.
 

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Tuna, I'm heading out of the office, but once I get home I can type a full reply. Until then, road bikes are pretty rough compared to anything else. What you're really concerned with is vibration and shock. CF helps dampen that quite a bit. Try riding an Al frame for several miles, your CF will feel like you're riding on a cloud.
 

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I second what Lance has said, and have a few things to add. The 53/39 is a pretty standard crank. Things are moving into compact cranksets (50/34) and that is what I have. That gives you more in the climbing end. 12-25 is also pretty standard. They make an 11-28 now, which would give you better leverage for uphills, and more speed in your 53-11 (vs. 53-12). As far as being good for climbs, your legs will tell you.

The Bontrager wheels are not stock for Giant. They're owned by Trek, so you'll find them on Trek, Gary Fisher, Litespeed (I think) and Klein. They're pretty expensive too, about $320 (MSRP) each. Aero wheels are heavy because of the shape, but you're supposed to gain some better aerodynamics from them. The Bontrager are about 1775g for the set. To put that into perspective, my Mavic wheels on my new Scott are 1550g for the set. About the same price but non-aero. The Dura-Ace wheels that came on it were probably about the same price, but non-aero.

The tires are OK, but I've never been a fan. The GP 4000s that I get are around $60 per tire, but worth it IMO.

As Lance said, SADDLE. That is the most important feature on your bike, and one of the few things you NEED to buy retail. The reason is because many have trial periods (make sure you check on this, do not get a saddle without a trial period). You need to try new saddles until you come across the "right" one. Keep in min, however, that it needs to be firm and needs to support your sit-bones. If the boys or the pee-pee go numb, it's not the right saddle (make sure it's level and only make minor adjustments). Your sit-bones will probably be sore the first few weeks, that's normal. Expect to pay anywhere from $100 - $200 for a good saddle.

Get padded shorts. The road-bike lycra kind. You'll look like a dork.

Finally, just ride.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I've really had no problems with my current saddle, but maybe I'll look into some others. Maybe I just don't realize that it sucks or something. I'm really not sure what all the numbering for the gearing means or what it's supposed to mean to me, to be honest. Any way to give me a quick run-down?

Edit: Nevermind, I figured out what you mean with the gearing numbering. Since my front sprockets (crankset?) are 53 and 39T, the fastest gearing would be 53 up front and 12 in back with my current configuration. How expensive is it to change gearing? Would I have to buy a whole new setup or can you just change to a compact crankset pretty easily?
If you're not thinking about the saddle, then don't change it. You'll know it's the wrong saddle when you balls/taint/schlong tell you... excuse my French.

Gearing works just like the motorcycle. The bigger up front, the lower the RPM. The bigger in back, the higher the RPM and visa versa.

Since you already have a Dura-Ace crankset, you may be able to just change the chainrings (gears up front). You can also find a Dura-Ace crankset on ebay for ~$200-$300. Gotta make sure you get a 10 speed (meaning 10 in the back).

I'd ride the bike some more before making any changes like that. If you feel like it's falling short somewhere, then spend the money. If it is suiting your needs, then buy bib shorts. You'll thank me later ;)

Biggest thing right now is to make sure you've got it fit for you. Slight bend in the knee at the bottom of the pedal stroke w/ the balls of your feet even with the spindle (pivot of pedal) and foot parallel w/ ground. When crank arm is horizontal and ball of your foot is even with spindle, the front of your knee should be even with the spindle.
 

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The taint shouldn't hurt, that means that you have pressure on your perineal arteries. Long term bad news. If it's your sit-bones, that's a different story. Those should hurt like hell the first few weeks. The seat is the most important part of the bike. Make sure you get the right one. I cannot stress this enough. I hear the Specialized BG saddles are REALLY nice.

Fit is just as personal as a seat. While many companies have their "scientific research" and catch phrases (Trek/Bontrager: inForm, Specialized: BG, etc), it's just a start. For example, I bought my bike the same day my GF got hers, from the same shop. They've spent probably 2-3 hours with her and setting up her bike, getting the seat right, pedals right, etc. Very comprehensive.

Me, on the other hand, they adjusted the seat height for the test ride and that was that. They know I've been riding for a while and have my comfort zone. I got home, took it for a 10-mile rid and found all my settings.

Point being, if you have no idea, the spend the $200. If you want to take the time yourself, it's a lot of fine tuning (even if you go the BG route).

Fitting yourself is pretty easy. http://sportsmedicine.about.com/cs/sport/a/bikefit.htm
 

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Same here, beer was the motivation. 95 degrees made it pretty hot in the pack (group ride).

Speaking of lady riders, there was this one chick in the group who was a freaking mule with all her pulling. God dman.

I think tomorrow is a break, however. I did a speed workout on Thurs and pretty fast yesterday. My legs are dead, so it's upper-body at the gym after a short ride w/ the GF tomorrow.
 

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Well since everybody totally ignored my question, I think I might try some Crank Brother "Smarty" pedals. $40 or so from Pricepoint and I wanted to keep it around $100 including shoes. :)

I am looking to put cross tires on my bike since I plan to ride it mostly on easy trails/paths and stay off the roads. So the Crank Brother's look like a good compromise.
Sorry coop, never saw your question.

The problem with cycling gear is that if you try to save money, you'll just come back to replace it and spend more in the long run.

If you're interested, I have a set of Nike size 45 (euro) shoes. They'll fit 2 and three hole cleats. I can't remember how much time I have in them though. I also have a set of size 44 (euro, I think) Specialized mountain shoes. They have a little less them than the Nike. ... probably don't want used shoes though.

Anyway, ~$60 for shoes is the cheapest you'll want to go. For commuting, you'll want a dual-sided pedal too. I've had luck with the Shimano M-540's when I rode anything other than road. I can't remember how much they are, but ~$60-80 sounds right. They make a platform pedal too that has a clip for shoes. Check them out. Spending a little more money now will save in the long-run because of reliability and durability.
 
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