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Discussion Starter #1
I got my project '01 back on the road finally. Once. :p

Work done:
  • Refreshed carbs thrice (no new hardware, everything seems in spec)
    • There is some oxidation inside the float bowls... but doesn't seem to be a major issue? More on this below...
  • Sprockets & chain
  • Fluids
  • Brakes
  • New clutch cable
  • Adjusted idle screw & attempted to sync carbs (not sure how effective I was but bike ran noticeably better)
  • Clutch was not engaging (as I previously posted about) and a thorough clutch adjustment solved that issues as well (thanks to AndyAuger's clutch mantra)
Problems:
Took the bike on first ride, things went relatively well. It was really poppy on decel (gunfire-esque) and low RPMs are a bit chuggy (<~30mph) but I had a blast.​
However, the next morning - bike started once, idled rough, died on throttle and then refused to crank back up resulting in a dead battery.​
My questions:
  1. Dead battery - is this a sign of the R/R needing replacing? I had the battery fully charged within the last few days, seems silly it would die so quickly. Or should I first start troubleshooting the stator? I already have a replacement R/R, just haven't gotten around to doing the work. I'm a laymen with the electrics here...
  2. Dying on throttle again - I have no experience with A/F screw adjustments, is this a symptom of needing an adjustment? Or could it simply be my pilot jet is getting continuously clogged up?? I need to add a filter in the fuel lines. There is a minimal bit of jelly material in the float bowls each time I've taken them apart but the pilot jets appear relatively unclogged.
  3. Poppy deceleration - I read to check for exhaust leaks first... going to review the pipes once rain ceases.
I'm charging the battery now to see if I can at least get the bike started. At that point, if I'm successful, I'm curious if it will still want to die on throttle. I'm very wary of touching the A/F screw because I don't want to wonk things past my skill level but am willing to try if someone believes it's warranted. If it's the carbs that are repetitively clogging... is the best answer to get a fuel filter? It seems odd that ethanol would jellify overnight...

EDIT: I should mention bike has a TwoBros (slipon, I think?) and is jetted 15, 145. It was running great the one time... but I've wondered if I should explore 17.5 pilots since I'm having issues at 1st gear and low RPMs.

Thanks in advance for any leads.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Small Update
Bike is still in the shed on stands, never got it started after that night out. 馃槄 Not very incentivizing to get out there during the cold but I've been getting to it.​

Review from previous post:
  1. Dead battery - I think this was just due to me cranking it time and time again while suffering from other problems (clogged carbs e.g.)
  2. Dying on throttle again - fuel filters are probably a good idea if I don't want to take out the carbs every day... 99% this is the cause.
  3. Poppy deceleration/backfiring - I read to check for exhaust leaks first... was also thinking I need to check plugs to see if I'm running too rich.
New problem:
While trying to start the bike in the rain (previous post), the starter button completely stopped working. No clicks from relay, no gauge dimming, no engine cranking, nothing at all. Got the truck and hauled it back to the shed.​

Troubleshooting...
Using a multimeter ->

  1. Confirmed battery is a working unit - hovering around 12.5-12.9v on full charge.
  2. Confirmed the right-hand controls work - both the starter button & kill switch (tested at the connector in headlight area)
  3. I tested the starter relay pins for resistance which was successful (think I'm saying that correctly, screenshot below)
Also ->
  1. 30A starter relay fuse is still good
  2. Connected battery tender to battery and attempted to jump the bike using starter button, no effect.
  3. Permanently shorted the clutch safety switch (was using a paperclip previously)
  4. Tried to test the kickstand safety switch but was unable to get a solid test. However, when the side stand is UP and I short the starter relay - then the bike cranks.
    (this rules out side stand safety... correct?)
  5. Tested starter relay by charging battery & bridging the relay with a screwdriver. The bike does crank but wouldn't turn over cause I have the fuel tank off right now.
    (this rules out starter relay... correct?)
  6. Cleaned the contacts of each ground that I could find. Cleaned the battery leads as well as starter relay contacts. Cleaned starter motor contact.
    The battery leads have a good bit of corrosion on them but the gauges/lights still get power so is this something to be concerned with? (I have new-used leads & new-used relay on the way from MadV8)
Crappy pics of battery leads and starter relay corrosion
I tried to perform the resistance test in Fig.28.6 but not sure if I did it correctly.

Where do I go from here? Are these signs of a gremlin harness or is there something I'm missing & haven't checked?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'd love to order some beer, or some other form of appreciation, for whoever can get me on the right track. 馃嵒 Bonus crappy video of the one real ride it's been on.
 

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For your no-cranking issue, are you sure the kill switch isn't accidentally flipped to the OFF position?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
For your no-cranking issue, are you sure the kill switch isn't accidentally flipped to the OFF position?
Correct, I have it flipped down, same as my V-Strom's kill switch. Also confirmed the switch itself is a functioning switch.

Sacrificing a few dollars and have a new starter relay from Amazon (and another used OEM one) in the mail now. I think the new one will arrive tomorrow or Thursday.

Will report back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Received the new starter relay, today. Unfortunately no change in behavior. This probably means the old one is still good as well.

Same behavior from both - no action on starter button (not even a click). Bridging the relay with a screwdriver will crank the bike however.

---

Going back over the controls - I can confirm both the kill switch and the starter button are passing my continuity tests (at the first main connector, headlight housing):
  • Kill switch - testing orange/black & orange/white
  • Starter button - testing yellow/green & orange/white

  • I've shorted the clutch safety see pic in link
  • Kickstand safety is still connected, but is not passing my continuity test see pic in link
    • Should I go ahead and bite the bullet, cut the connector and do like my clutch safety? (trying not to complicate my testing further)
      Pics for reference
Looking at the wiring diagram - tracing past the safeties... yellow/green (starter button) goes straight to relay and the orange/white (also starter button?) goes to ignition coils.
  • Since the bike cranks when relay is bridged , this should rule out ignition coils correct?
  • Since the brand new relay is acting the same as old (presumably functioning) , not sure if this indicates destruction somewhere in the wiring harness between starter button connector and relay?
56556
 

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If the bike is in neutral it should still crank whether the stand is down or not.

You must be either missing the ground side or the signal side of the starter relay coil.

Do you have 12v on yellow/green at the relay when attempting to start? If not, trace it back until you find it again.
 

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What GC said.

This diagram might help. Start at Y/G at the starter relay then work backward to the battery; Step4, 3, 2, 1. Measure voltage, do not test continuity. Good voltage implies continuity. To make contact, you can use a needle-sharp voltmeter probe to gently push through the wire insulation if necessary.

And based on how beautifully you formated your posts, obviously, you are a meticulous sharp guy so this should be an easy problem for you to find. :) Fixing stuff is a great way to learn how things work.
56561
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you both. I screwed up my back day before yester, right after posting... hoping to get out to the shed today and keep digging at this.

Game plan
  1. Begin tracing voltage from relay > battery and then relay > button trying to determine where power is lost.
  2. Check contacts on coils (being that it was raining when button stopped working, corrosion/dirt has constantly been on my mind but been cleaning each contact I come across)
I'll post my results soon.

----

If the bike is in neutral it should still crank whether the stand is down or not.
Duh... thank you, I was over thinking this.

You must be either missing the ground side or the signal side of the starter relay coil.
Do you have 12v on yellow/green at the relay when attempting to start? If not, trace it back until you find it again.
Going to double check the coils today. Thank you.

This diagram might help. Start at Y/G at the starter relay then work backward to the battery; Step4, 3, 2, 1. Measure voltage, do not test continuity. Good voltage implies continuity. To make contact, you can use a needle-sharp voltmeter probe to gently push through the wire insulation if necessary.

And based on how beautifully you formated your posts, obviously, you are a meticulous sharp guy so this should be an easy problem for you to find. :) Fixing stuff is a great way to learn how things work.
I appreciate the kind words, I try to be diligent when asking others for their time and energy. Thanks for the diagram, testing voltage and checking coil grounds later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm going out this afternoon to re-do this with my multimeter. I went to Harbor Freight yesterday and picked up a simple circuit tester (ground & bulb wand)... tried to use it but am I doing this correctly?

Battery connected, ignition ON.
  • Battery hot: lights up
  • Relay hot: lights up
  • Y/G: does not light up
  • Kickstand safety: tried shorting, but does not light up
  • Clutch safety: I have these twisted, did not light up
I'm not sure I'm doing the test correctly so gonna watch some Youtube and try again today with multimeter instead. Trying not to tear up my wiring harness either.
 

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If you have the test light clipped to battery negative, it should light whenever you touch the probe to 12V positive. You can sort of think of it like a yes/no indicator. Does it light? No? Continue backwards until you find where it does light. Alternatively, you can follow the positive side from the battery towards the relay. Once you find the part where it doesn't light when it should, you know where to focus.

Remember you have to press the starter button in order to feed 12V beyond it to the clutch switch and then the starter relay. Assuming there's 12V at the starter button on the kill switch side, that is.

I find it much faster to use a test light almost everywhere on an SV because the circuits are so simple, the tool is way cheaper than a multimeter, and it doesn't require analysis. Sometimes people get hung up if their meter reads 10.8V or something instead of 12. Or they set it up wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm back!

Just to clarify, in case I was fooling anyone, I'm a complete layman with the electric side of things. You've all been a great help and I'm slowly learning, including how to use my 5 multimeters 馃槄Just a disclaimer as some of what I ramble may not make sense, cause I feel I'm hardly grasping this.

-- bear with me here folks, gonna be long but I'll try to be clear --

Received another relay (used) from Mad8V (thanks!) as well as used (but better looking than mine) battery leads. They're now installed.

Battery charged today, but starting to look weak at 12.5V after about a day on the charger.

With battery connected, ignition ON, killswitch OFF, starter button pressed down:::
  • Headlights work, signals, horn all work
  • Battery hot/red: lights up
  • Relay hot/red: lights up
Here is where I'm hoping to get some clarification once and for all. Thus far, I've been trying to splice into the insulation and use test light... but I don't think this is the best method?
Correct me if I'm wrong or if there is a better way.

For instance, can I get an accurate test by - disconnecting each connector one at a time (using the diagram shared by TR) and testing the pins associated with Y/G, Y/B, O/B?
  • Y/G pin on relay does not light up. (however, every other pin does? Also, this wouldn't make sense while pushing the button, no way for signal to be received and transferred to starter motor)
    • That said, I also tested the female end of Y/G does not light up when starter button is pressed (I think this is the correct test to do? because it would be sending signal to pin)
    • Y/G feels very warm during these tests, is this a symptom of something I need to check into? Seems weird I can't get a light test but the wire is warm...
  • Clutch safety Y/B does not light up when I press starter button.
    (when I first bought the bike, I had to use a paperclip to short the female connector... could this be an issue within the housing that I now need to inspect? As if it's gone further up the line and me shorting the two wires is still doing nothing)

  • Killswitch: am I doing this right? I was touching test light to the soldered end of O/B. It was the best I could figure. does not light up when starter button is pressed

  • Sidestand safety - ***k it, bike is in neutral anyway 馃槑(it failed the test light though)
  • Sidestand relay - what is this? where is this?
-----------------

Last things... I took out all fuses and sprayed them with contact cleaner and scrubbed them clean. They're drying right now. There was some dark charring on a few but the fuse appears to be intact still. Was thinking of swapping the ignition 10A with one of the others. This is the end of the line according to TR's diagram.

Close to saving some more $change and buying a used harness off the web but honestly, the thought of giving up like that irks me and would that even solve this? I want to get enjoy the bike as well as get into some other projects but if I can't figure this out (albeit with help) then I shouldn't be getting into those other things. Personal right of passage as you will. With that said, is this maybe a situation that justifies such a decision?

Thanks in advance as always. Gonna keep digging through Google and YouTube.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
WOOOOO!

Decided to swap a fuse... it worked!!

Looking at those pics, and I'll try and get better ones... looks like the Ignition fuse as well as the other 10A below it have some charring within the housing.

That said, I actually didn't test the existing fuse after cleaning, only swapped. Gonna go out and do some more testing.

----

EDIT: Only reason I hadn't dug further into the fuses until now was because when you glance at all of them, the metal is intact. So to me, good to go. (+ all the other fuses were working, headlights, etc).

I'll get some better pictures, make sure this was the problem and report back. Time for dinner.
 

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Ah, I once had a cracked fuse that reconnected every time I touched my test light to it. Imagine my confusion as I had a fuse that tested good but no power out of the back of the fuse box!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To be honest, I'm embarrassed. I truly had thought to go over each fuse but when I initially glanced, and saw the metal bar intact, just assumed they were in good functional condition. Just gonna use the spare for now and order some more.

Also, after things were working again, I went ahead and re-did my 12V tests using the test bulb. Everything worked, as described and expected. Not as climatic as I hoped. Here's my payment...
56639


Gonna get everything reassembled this afternoon. Pretty sure my pilot jets are getting clogged overnight (dirty-ish tank + #15 jet) and was planning on cleaning carbs. Instead, I took them apart last night and swapped #15 for #17.5... just gonna see what it will do. The bowls weren't that dirty otherwise at all.

A question I had was... I was planning on adding a fuel filter between pump and carb lines... is this a bad idea since there's no OEM one? All my scooters run filters without issue, not sure if a big V twin is different.

Lastly, this thing is like gunfire when I let off the throttle. I was gonna check for exhaust leaks but is this also a sign that I could be running lean? I haven't checked the plugs yet.

Hoping to have a running then riding video soon to share. Thank you again for reading.
 
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