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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a bit of a starting issue on my K5. You know the "whirring sound" you get with first turning on the ignition? Well...it usually lasts maybe 5 seconds, after which the bike starts fine. But lately, on maybe 1 out of 2 or 3 tries, the "whirring sound" only lasts maybe a second or less. If that happens, the bike won't start. Cycling the ignition to get a 5 second whir will resolve it and the bike starts. I'm guessing the "whir" is the fuel pump pressurizing the line...but I don't know, so I'm guessing there might be an issue with whatever controls the line pressure. Any ideas about what the problem might be? I'd like to fix it before I'm left stranded someplace.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK my SV brothers...you have let me down. My bike did leave me stranded....but fortunately it was in my garage and I could take the cage to work today. Turning the key now produces no more "whirring sound" and the bike won't fire. FI light is illuminated or blinking. What to check now? TIA.
 

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OK my SV brothers...you have let me down. My bike did leave me stranded....but fortunately it was in my garage and I could take the cage to work today. Turning the key now produces no more "whirring sound" and the bike won't fire. FI light is illuminated or blinking. What to check now? TIA.
When your FI light is burning, you need to put the bike in dealermode and get the malfunction code.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is a quick follow-up. I'm wondering if the diehard battery I installed 6 mo. ago is bad. Without load I measure 12.8V. With the headlights on it drops to 12.1 (engine not running). That sounds too low. I'm guessing that's too low to get the fuel pump to energize...hence the FI light (haven't pulled the code...need a link to figure out how to do). When it does fire, there is no FI light. Sound like the battery?
 

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Here is a quick follow-up. I'm wondering if the diehard battery I installed 6 mo. ago is bad. Without load I measure 12.8V. With the headlights on it drops to 12.1 (engine not running). That sounds too low. I'm guessing that's too low to get the fuel pump to energize...hence the FI light (haven't pulled the code...need a link to figure out how to do). When it does fire, there is no FI light. Sound like the battery?
No it does not sound like a battery, check your FI code.

12.1V is enough to get the fuel pump working.

When your FI light is burning it says that that there is a other problem, check it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the quick replies...but the above link for the codes is dead. But it helped for entering the dealer mode. Anyone have a list of codes that still works?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK...I pulled the code. If the bike starts, which it does sometimes, there is no code. If the "whir" sound only lasts a second, and then I attempt to start the bike, it will throw code 42 and the bike won't start. Anyone know what fault code 42 is?
 

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OK...I pulled the code. If the bike starts, which it does sometimes, there is no code. If the "whir" sound only lasts a second, and then I attempt to start the bike, it will throw code 42 and the bike won't start. Anyone know what fault code 42 is?
C42 Ignition switch signal (IG switch signal) Anti-theft

Have you changed something about the ignition ?? or use a other key ??
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After some digging, C42 looks to be an ignition/anti-theft signal return. After some googling, I think there "may" be a 100 ohm resistor in the ignition switch that is there to prevent a hot-wire theft. I'm wondering if the ECU checks for this resistance, and if it is out of tolerance, throws the C42 code. If so, a bad connection in that circuit might be the problem. Does anyone know what wire color in particular I would be looking for?
 

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sounds like you would do good to invest in a repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I know...I hate guys like me :). I rely on the manuals from svorg...but this time I was thwarted by needing some knowledge about torrents or something like that. I'll have to go off and research a bit.....
 

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Hi Rog,
You are looking for the Orange/Yellow wire (ignition switch side), which then plugs directly to the Orange/Red wire (harness side).

You are right, there IS a 100ohm resistor in the ignition switch and the ECU DOES check for it so that you can't just jumper the Red to Orange and be off with the bike.

99% sure your problem is a faulty ignition switch, your symptoms fit exactly. The ignition switch likely has a bad connection on the anti-theft contact. You could try and clean it, but you probably will get stranded sometime in the future. Another option would be to by pass the resistor externally.

To be sure, check the voltage on the Orange/Yellow wire at the ignition switch. When things are working it should be about 6 volts, and in fail mode close to 0 volts. I could be off here as it's been some months since I've mucked with this circuit, but I think that's right.

I'm familiar with this circuit because I kludged up a key-less ignition for my SV, not because I'm a bike thief! :eek:

Cheers!
-TeeRiver


Edit: Perhaps and easier way to see if it's your ignition switch (without breaking out the volt meter), would be to wiggle/turnon/turnoff the key and watch for your problem to appear/disappear. If it does, then the problem is the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update: I took off the airbox to get to the green ignition connector. In the start position, the ignition switch reads: 98 ohms from O-O/Y, B-O/Y, and R-O/Y, and 0-ohms from R-O, O-B, and R-B. There is nothing in the shop manual about this (that I can find), but I think that sounds reasonable. I cleaned the contacts and reassembled. I also squirted some contact cleaner inside the key-hole of the ignition switch itself.

After about 12 attempts, I haven't gotten any faults, but it's way to early to declare success. I'll report back in a few days.

By the way, maybe it's me, but I don't think the wiring diagrams in the shop manual are very complete. I really can't figure out what the different color wires do in the ignition switch. But I do have a feeling the O/Y wire is dedicated to the anti-theft check.
I also don't think the kill switch is part of this...I only say this because you don't get a C42 fault when you cycle the ignition with the kill-switch flipped. But I really don't know.
 

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I also squirted some contact cleaner inside the key-hole of the ignition switch itself.
Uh oh, spraying contact cleaner in the switch will make you problem go away for a while but it *will* be back, probably at the worst possible time. You can't isolate the problem now since it's not in failure mode.

The C42 error code along with the fact the problem is intermittent, and that contact cleaner in the key hole makes the failure go away, makes your ignition switch as guilty as O.J. Simpson.;D

I would replace the switch. It's not supposed to be serviceable, but maybe you can fix it with info in these links:
http://www.sv-portal.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-26502.html
http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=42462
They are for the SV1000, but your switch is similar.

What brand is you shop manual?

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm using the factory manual I found here:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/7530846/Su...-Parts-Catalog

And thanks for that link TeeRiver...awesome find. I sure didn't see any burn marks in the green connector like in the photos. I'm going to give my bike a chance to see if the faults begin again....if they do, I will likely do a tear-down as shown in the photos instead of buying a new switch with all the hassles with re-keying everything. Thanks.
 

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Good, that's the awesome factory manual. That version is 6 years old, but the ignition circuit shown is correct for your K5. The Orange/Yellow wire *is* dedicated to the anti-theft circuit, and you can trace it right to the ECU. The 100ohm resistor is not show as it's inside the ignition switch. Also I don't think Suzuki would like to be advertising their anit-theft measures in their formal documentation! smiley
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Update: It's been a week...maybe 30-40 starts...since I cleaned the ignition switch and connector I've had no more issues. So if anyone is getting these faults, it is worth a try.
 
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