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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started to reassemble the front end/forks/wheel of my 03 S which i'm converting to a naked. I got the bike for dirt cheap as it was in terrible condition; running - but terrible condition.

I had to buy new rims as my front was bent in two places. Got a very nice set of straight rims with good rotors. They got new tires and balanced up with little to no weights needed. :)

I install the forks in the new triples (definitley N triples), both forks slide in easily with no binding or having to use the rubber mallet method. I tighten the bolts to keep the forks in nicely, but not torqued.

I slide the new wheel in, install the axle bolt (well lubed) and the newly fixed speedo sensor (was in place properly and confirmed 2x)....tightened up the axle bolt and pinch bolt (tightened by hand sorta tight, but not with torque wrench; do that at the end). Go to install the calipers with new pads.... :(

The L side caliper will go on ok (L side if sitting on the bike)
The R side caliper bracket won't go on. There is NOT enough space between the R fork and the R rotor for the caliper to install. I can't even slide the bracket inbetween the mounting points and the rotor.

I eyeball the forks, I don't "think" the R fork is bent, but at this point, i'm so ****** off they could have a 90 degree bend and I wouldn't see it.

Anyone have ideas? I've tossed so much $$ at this bike already that if it gets any more of my $$ i'll just take it out back and shoot the @$^%&%& thing...

Any help is appreciated.
 

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Take the fork off and roll it on a clean, flat surface, see if you can spot any bending. It could be something else that you're doing wrong (though I can't imagine what :p )
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is no spacer on a 2nd gen front axle. :( I would take pics but I already disassembled it.

I am going to reassemble this evening....taking a BIG breath in the mean time. :\

If it does it again, i'm thinking the fork is bent.

I took a 14" metal ruler and held it up on the side of the shiny part of the fork. I think that part is bent maybe 1/16" in. I'll reassemble and see if I get the same results.
 

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The right fork moves in and out.
Install the calipers before tightening the front axle.
Torque the front axle, then compress the front end several times, the axle end should be flush with the right fork.
Tighten axle pinch bolt to specified torque and you done......
 

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This is from the book itself.........

BRAKE CALIPER

Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to the specified
torque .

Front brake caliper mounting bolt :
39 N.m (3 .9 kgf-m, 28.0 lb-ft)
NOTE:
Push the pistons all the way into the caliper and remount the calipers.
FRONT AXLE

Tighten the front axle to the specified torque with special tool .
09900-18710: Hexagon bit 12 mm

Front axle : 65 N .m (6 .5 kgf-m, 47.0 lb-ft)
NOTE:
Before tightening the two axle pinch bolts on the right front fork
leg, move the front fork up and down 4 or 5 times without applying
front brake .

Tighten axle pinch bolt on the right front fork leg to the specified
torque .

Front axle pinch bolt : 23 N .m (2 .3 kgf-m, 16.5 lb-ft)
 

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If the front end was hit hard enough to bend the wheel, I can't imagine the forks would stay true.
Take the forks off and hold a straight edge against them to check for straightness. Alternatively, spin the forks 180 degrees in the triple and see if your gap is now too wide.
Lastly, leave the forks loose when you button up the wheel end for the first time after a rebuild where the forks are being removed. I didn't tighten any of the triple bolts until the wheel and calipers were on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, here are some pics....I think it's bent. But who knows - as you can see, there is not enough space to even get the bracket in where you mount it.





I put the fork back on tonight loosely, put the tire in, installed speedo sensor and axle, only putting the axle in to hand tight. Had the same thing happen - bracket and rotor hit with no space to install the caliper.

I will attempt the fork/then caliper/then wheel mounting and see what happens.

I'm almost resigned to just getting a used OEM fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I went to the basement and did the following:

put fork in...
put on R brake caliper
slid wheel in
put speedo sensor in
put in axle

I was able to get it all lined up . . . .BUT . . . the R rotor rubs on the outside brake pad and the front wheel does not turn smooth as you can hear it rubbing on that outside pad.

I will watch the video and see if that will help my issue.
 

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ok this may be a dumb thought.. but did you push the caliper pistons all the way in to give you maximum clearance? careful not to over flow the reservoir..
 

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if you have it on now it shouldn't just be a matter of bleeding the brakes now. right?
If no air was introduced, not necessarily. Applying the brakes so that the pistons are at maximum extension is though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If no air was introduced, not necessarily. Applying the brakes so that the pistons are at maximum extension is though.
The braking system was totally disassembled to do the naked swap and add new stainless lines.

The pistons in both R and L calipers have been squished back to almost flat with the caliper and new sintered pads were placed inside. There is a HUGE gap inbetween the pads to get the rotor in.

I'm convinced at this point it's a bent fork; slightly bent as it may be, but bent. Where I think it's bent would make sense for the bottom to toe-in enough to make clearance below a problem. :(
 

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Hmm, using the angle measuring tool in GIMP on the first pic in update #10, I do see about a 1.2 degree difference between the bottom sliders. But I wouldn't exactly call it full proof.

Did you do what I recommended and try to roll the fork on a flat surface to see if any bends can be perceived?

You could also take the fork apart, and only roll the top slider to get a better idea, as it would be just the top round tube, without the bottom slider's brake caliper mounts getting in the way.
 

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Well, in the first photo it's easy to see that your axle is sticking out a bit. It should be slightly recessed within the fork leg. Perhaps it's just the angle of the photo, but the left leg (as you're sitting on the bike) appears to be slightly bent in.

The only real way you're gonna solve this problem is by taking the forks off and checking them for straightness with a straight edge, or as fafaforza said, attempt to roll them along a known level surface to see if they wobble at all.
 

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here, try this- remove pinch bolt, grab bars and do not touch brake lever, bounce forks up and down. forks should straighten out. if they have, install caliper and bounce forks up and down with out touching brake lever, install pinch bolt and tourque to spec. if the forks did not straighten out, remove and re-install the axle, install caliper, bounce forks up and down without touching brake lever, install pinch bolt and torque to spec.
it appears you have the right side fork leg pushed in too far, the axle should be recessed in the fork about one or two mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I hope to get to this again this weekend....I am working 12 hour days and both days this weekend. It's prime season in the motorcycle world :(
 
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