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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i have a 2001 sv650s. I lost spark on the front cylinder mid milk run. I have tested the front coil and it works just fine on the rear mount with the rear leads and the long spark plug boot that goes to it. I tested all the wires for shorts via ohms. Everything has led me to the computer in the rear of the bike. Is there any way to test its pins for failure? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Kyle
 

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There is no easy stand-alone test for the ignitor.

Did this bike see rain recently? If so, search the forum for "SV325". It is common for water to short out the front cyl spark plug.

Have you owned this bike for a long time and do you know if the Regulator/Rectifier has ever been replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
so I bought the bike in July. I changed the rectifier and it has new plugs. Everything has spark when plugged in to the rear ignition coil, I have switched the two coils multiple times to verify. It was wet out the night it stopped having spark. I will check the "sv325" threads now to see if anything on there can help.
 

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... It was wet out the night it stopped having spark. I will check the "sv325" threads now to see if anything on there can help.
Sounds like that is the problem.

Clear the front cyl drain hole, remove the plug cap, dry thoroughly, apply liberal dielectric grease, add a front fender flap to prevent the problem in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Clear the front cyl drain hole, remove the plug cap, dry thoroughly, apply liberal dielectric grease
So, I cleaned the drain hole, it was indeed plugged. It has been sitting for a few weeks at this point so everything is dry, although I did use compressed air to double check. I also switched the boot from the front coil to the rear one and it worked fine. I used a new plug to test for spark on the frame. However that did not fix my issue. I am still not getting spark out of the plug while it is plugged in to the front coil.
 

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... I also switched the boot from the front coil to the rear one and it worked fine.
The end of the high tension wire on the front coil might be damaged. Try snip off 1/4" to reveal new wire then screw the plug cap back on and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The end of the high tension wire on the front coil might be damaged. Try snip off 1/4" to reveal new wire then screw the plug cap back on and try again.
It does not work with either the short or the long one, but they both work fine on the coil I have on the rear mount. Even when I put the one from the front on the back it works fine. The coils and spark plug wires all work fine on the back mount and wire leads. However neither work on the front mount and leads.
 

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... The coils and spark plug wires all work fine on the back mount and wire leads. However neither work on the front mount and leads.
That narrows it down to either:
1. Power to the front coil, check to be sure Orange/White at the coil is solid 12v.
2. Ignitor control to the front coil, touch a test light to Black/Yellow at the front coil, crank the starter, see if voltage toggles. If you do not have a test light try measure voltage with a multimeter (different meters will react differently but you can compare what you see with the healthy reading from the working rear coil).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am currently unable to plug in the cluster, the plug end dry rotted and turned to dust. I am currently looking for a new front sub harness or plug to re-pin so I can get it working again. However I think it stopped working that night this all started. The light also went out on the whole cluster, so I don't know if it was because of the plug end failing or a spark issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That narrows it down to either:
1. Power to the front coil, check to be sure Orange/White at the coil is solid 12v.
2. Ignitor control to the front coil, touch a test light to Black/Yellow at the front coil, crank the starter, see if voltage toggles. If you do not have a test light try measure voltage with a multimeter (different meters will react differently but you can compare what you see with the healthy reading from the working rear coil).
I do not have a test light, but I will test for voltage tomorrow when I get off work.
 

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I am currently unable to plug in the cluster, the plug end dry rotted and turned to dust. I am currently looking for a new front sub harness or plug to re-pin so I can get it working again. However I think it stopped working that night this all started. The light also went out on the whole cluster, so I don't know if it was because of the plug end failing or a spark issue.
Unfortunately reminds of when my R/R died first sign was the tacho stopped then the cdi died, Hope you are luckier than me. Check for the pulsing to the front coil, my fingers are crossed.
 

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K-Mart, back in post #3, where you said the R/R had been changed, was that because of too high charging voltage (> 15v), or did you replace the R/R as a preventive measure? As Alex mentioned, an R/R that puts out too much voltage will cook the ignitor. Usually, that kills spark to both cylinders, but it is possible for just one cyl to die.

At this point, it does look like a failed ignitor. Good spark at the rear cyl confirms the cranks sensor is good and that the ignitor has power. The SV650 ignition system is simple, not much left to fail except the wiring, which would be rare.

Keep in mind, using a digital multimeter to check for pulse at the front coils is a crude test, but if the meter reads solid 12v (absolutely no pulse) on B/Y, that would confirm a failed ignitor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
K-Mart, back in post #3, where you said the R/R had been changed, was that because of too high charging voltage (> 15v), or did you replace the R/R as a preventive measure? As Alex mentioned, an R/R that puts out too much voltage will cook the ignitor. Usually, that kills spark to both cylinders, but it is possible for just one cyl to die.

At this point, it does look like a failed ignitor. Good spark at the rear cyl confirms the cranks sensor is good and that the ignitor has power. The SV650 ignition system is simple, not much left to fail except the wiring, which would be rare.

Keep in mind, using a digital multimeter to check for pulse at the front coils is a crude test, but if the meter reads solid 12v (absolutely no pulse) on B/Y, that would confirm a failed ignitor.
The Regulator was dead when i bought the bike so i put a gsxr 600 one on it. As per the recommendation of the internet. The wiring is good i checked it all the other day. When i say checked i mean physically looked at every inch of wire, it was all solid. So i have a steady 12v on the orange and white wire, but the black and yellow is jumping between 1 and 3v DC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
K-Mart, back in post #3, where you said the R/R had been changed, was that because of too high charging voltage (> 15v), or did you replace the R/R as a preventive measure? As Alex mentioned, an R/R that puts out too much voltage will cook the ignitor. Usually, that kills spark to both cylinders, but it is possible for just one cyl to die.

At this point, it does look like a failed ignitor. Good spark at the rear cyl confirms the cranks sensor is good and that the ignitor has power. The SV650 ignition system is simple, not much left to fail except the wiring, which would be rare.

Keep in mind, using a digital multimeter to check for pulse at the front coils is a crude test, but if the meter reads solid 12v (absolutely no pulse) on B/Y, that would confirm a failed ignitor.
The Regulator was dead when i bought the bike so i put a gsxr 600 one on it. As per the recommendation of the internet. The wiring is good i checked it all the other day. When i say checked i mean physically looked at every inch of wire, it was all solid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I retested the front and rear coils. The front coil was reading 1 to 3 volts while the back was reading 100 to 300+ volts. I would imagine the voltage should be the same if it was working properly.
 

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Yes, the large difference in voltage readings is telling. Time to replace the ignitor.
 

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(y)

Yeah, please give us an update. It looks certain to be the ignitor but have never seen one fail on just one cylinder, so confirmation would be great.
 
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