[briderdt]

I don't have any pics, because, well, I really don't want any photographic evidence of my suckitude.

I'm riding Heli Bars now, and had to add about 3/4" (spacers) or so each end so I could fit all the controls and hand guards.

My plan was to use Swatt 3.5" rise clip-on clamps and a drag bar (cut in half) as a way to get a lot more down angle while still keeping my hands in essentially the same place. Everything was going great until I started trying to get the controls on.

I found out I would need:
* longer clutch cable
* longer throttle cables
* longer brake line

So then I started investigating... Cables weren't a big deal -- Convertibar cables would do the job.

But the way the clip-on clamp was hitting the top triple bolt kept it in a position with too much pull-back. I tried putting the clamps on backwards (which gave me a GREAT position), but that caused a severe restriction of how far I could turn the front end.

I thought I could maybe make it work anyway, but then I saw that I would not just need a longer brake line, but the entire system.

And that's when I realized that what I was really trying to do was a naked bar set-up. A drag bar (set so the bars when straight down with almost no pullback) on regular risers would be about perfect placement.

So I would need:
* risers
* another drag bar (because I already cut the one I have in half)
* either a naked throttle tube and cables, or custom long cables
* longer clutch cable
* naked front brake lines

That all assumes I can drill out the S top triple to get the risers put on (don't know how much of a good idea that is). If not, add naked triples to that list.

But then I noticed that my wiring harness for the right hand controls (starter button, etc) was maxed out, and that I wouldn't be able to get it in the right position.

Kill the project! I'm not about to cut into the wiring harness.

Maybe my next bike...

I'm so ashamed.

 

[DieTrying310]

It always sucks when a project goes to hell. You work through one problem and sure enough another comes out. I went through something similar with some GSXR rearsets that I eventually gave up on.

Here's to hoping the next project goes well.:buddies:

 

[terryb]

Don't be ashamed. We're all learning. People on this site will help you get it sorted out.
I'm getting ready to replace the bars on my '03 naked to Superbike bars, a little higher and a little farther back, will probably have issues like yours.
If you want some '03 naked bars, they're yours.

 

[tk1971]

If you are willing to give it another shot (and if you already ordered longer cables), you can add spacers to the Swatt bars. I was able to add a 3/8" thick piece of aluminum between the fork clamp and the bar clamp, giving me enough clearance for my Naked top triple setup:

In order to do this, you'll also need longer bolts holding the clip ons together. Get back out there and do it.

tk

 

[briderdt]

The biggest problem was the short wiring harness. That was the straw that broke the camel's back on this one. Cables and brake line are doable, but I'd still have to completely rewire for the starter switch, etc, on the right side.

And only having the one bike, I'd like to keep it in riding condition (at least with little work to get it there). If I get a second bike (which will most likely be something like a Ninja 250), I'll get more serious about full-up modding.

 

[orangegilly]

The biggest problem was the short wiring harness. That was the straw that broke the camel's back on this one. Cables and brake line are doable, but I'd still have to completely rewire for the starter switch, etc, on the right side.

And only having the one bike, I'd like to keep it in riding condition (at least with little work to get it there). If I get a second bike (which will most likely be something like a Ninja 250), I'll get more serious about full-up modding.

You sure there isn't enough slack from the wiring that goes into the frame and under the tank? I'll bet you could free some length up without significant trouble.

 

[zimmtown]

You sure there isn't enough slack from the wiring that goes into the frame and under the tank? I'll bet you could free some length up without significant trouble.

+1 when I did my handlebar mod I had to do this. You will be suprised how much more slack you can probably get.

 

[briderdt]

Where's that slack hiding? I'm already close to maxed with the Heli Bars.

 

[terryb]

Under the tank? Maybe?

 

[briderdt]

Under the tank? Maybe?

I'll open 'er up tonight and see what I can come up with... Some one suggested on another thread to take the clutch cable out of the captured run for a couple extra inches there, too.

 

[Spacecoast]

I had something happen to me last weekend. I did my muffler chop..things went fairly well, but it was more work than I expected. After I put things back together, my final step was to drill the holes to place the rivits. Wow, drilling turned into a big deal. After getting one hole partially done, a bit broke off in the hole..and it looked as though it would act as a locking pin. So, I started it up (sounded nice) and took it for a short ride. Everything went well..stop and checked to be sure nothing was coming lose. A short way from home I punched it in first gear..eveything came flying out of the muffler. I was lucky that no one was behind me..and essentially no damage done to the baffle and end cap. I felt like an idiot.

PS. Went through 2 brand new 1/8" bits..no success until I got new bits from Home Depot..one bit did all three holes in a few minutes.

 

[D'Ecosse]

The harnesses are wrapped around the frame cross-member.
If you lift the tank (& maybe airbox) you will see that you can unplug them, re-route so they are not around the bar and you will have lots of free length.

 

[gregg-k]

If you are willing to give it another shot (and if you already ordered longer cables), you can add spacers to the Swatt bars. I was able to add a 3/8" thick piece of aluminum between the fork clamp and the bar clamp, giving me enough clearance for my Naked top triple setup:

In order to do this, you'll also need longer bolts holding the clip ons together. Get back out there and do it.

tk

Good idea using that spacer to clear the clamp bolt, TK. Only thing is that the clip ons are now 3/8" further forward.

Just wondering: is it possible to reverse the riser part of the SWATTs so they face the rider, instead of the headlight side? That way you would re-gain some of your pull back.

.. Gregg

 

[briderdt]

Good idea using that spacer to clear the clamp bolt, TK. Only thing is that the clip ons are now 3/8" further forward.

Just wondering: is it possible to reverse the riser part of the SWATTs so they face the rider, instead of the headlight side? That way you would re-gain some of your pull back.

.. Gregg

I tried this last night, and as long as you have them fully against the top triple, they'll clear the frame (but touch the tank). You lose some significant turning range though. Not worth it in my book. Too bad, though, as it put the bars in almost the perfect position that I was looking for...

 

[Spacecoast]

I tried this last night, and as long as you have them fully against the top triple, they'll clear the frame (but touch the tank).

Could the bars be raised in order to miss the tank?

 

[gregg-k]

Maybe the 3.5" SWATTs would be better in that regard ?

.. Gregg

 

[tk1971]

Only thing is that the clip ons are now 3/8" further forward.

.. Gregg

I don't know the stock clip on angle, but assuming my Swatt clip on angle is about 45 degrees, then with a 3/8" spacer, the net extension forward would only be about 1/4".

In addition, the estimated 1" rise added to the 1.5" rise of the stock clip ons (for Swatt 2.5" rise clip ons), would mean that without the spacers, the Swatts move the clip ons back about 0.42 inches (with a stock rake angle of 25 degrees).

So, bring it in 0.42 inches just by having the 2.5" rise Swatts, and then move it back out 0.25 inches by using the 3/8" spacers (assuming about a 45 degree clip on bar angle), and I get a net effect of the bars moving towards me, 0.17 inches.

Just rough math estimates that don't really prove anything other than the fact that I can look up the rake of the SV from WikiPedia, and that I didn't totally fall asleep during high school trig (SOH CAH TOA, anyone?).

Anyways, MY setup feels MORE comfortable to ME, compared to the stock SVS clip on configuration. I like the angle better and I like the slightly more up-right position of the Swatt clip ons. I'm actually appreciating it more and more, everytime I ride.

I still encourage the OP to finish his project and see how it feels to him. He might be onto something that the rest of us can benefit from.

tk

 

[briderdt]

Could the bars be raised in order to miss the tank?

It's not the bars that hit the tank, it's the fork clamp. ANd that's with it raised as far as it will go -- it'll just barely miss the frame.

 

[tk1971]

How about cutting yourself some 1/8" spacers? You can test fit with washers until you get the right width. I know from your previous post that you've pretty much decided to give up. But, if you change your mind and succeed, please post pics.

tk

 

[briderdt]

I've given up on the Swatts... I'm going to do a N conversion on the fork and mount the drag bar on that instead.

Guess I'll be selling a set of 3.5" rise Swatts... Never ridden, but a few small scratches on the inside of the left riser. Bars haven't even been installed (only the clamps).