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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I am trying to start something here, but I don't understand why it is important to modify a zx or gixxer rear shock to make it right for the bike? If the gixxer or zx shocks make your bike ride the way you want, then why change it? When you change your forks to a set of 750 or 1000 forks, why don't you have to change those too? Please excuse me, but I am a noob, when it comes to suspension.
This was brought up by a post i found on the search that look like an argument between a few members an svraceshop. Like I said not trying to start something, just don't understand.

thanks.
 
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you may get few different answers but here is my.
all those shocks are made for different bikes with different linkage.they use different spring rate and lenghts.
none is perfect fit for sv.to make it work at its best on sv it is good to revalve and respring.in my opinion that is waste of money.if not happy the way it is stock junk it and buy real shock.you will be less than $50 in hole.
forks are little different,there is no linkage involved.gsxr forks have stiffer springs which are ok for most street riders under 200#.valving is fine for street also so there is no need to do anything unless you race or are fast track rider.it will mostly depend on your weight and you can get away with just changing springs.
 

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^I agree^ I'm just a street rider and I have a stock zx-636 shock and it such a better improvment of the sv's shock. Plus I don't want to buy a aftermarket shock for a street bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I also agree, but do you agree that you should get a shock (636,10r,gixxer) revalved and resprung? I really don't see why a stock shock from another bike would hurt. And as far as dogbones ,as mentioned above, is it any different then using lowering links with a stck sv shock?
 

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Drowe said:
^I agree^ I'm just a street rider and I have a stock zx-636 shock and it such a better improvment of the sv's shock. Plus I don't want to buy a aftermarket shock for a street bike.
hey Drowe , how easy was swapping the 636 shock? did you just re place it? anything else ? thanks
 

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TWF meant that he thinks revalving a gsxr oem type shock for $350 is a waste of money, because you can get a real aftermarket shock for a few hundred more and quality will be much better, and the thing will actually have some resale value if you ever need to sell it. You can check Ebay for used aftermarket shocks.

Penske
Ohlins
Elka
WP

You will hear varying opinions on whether or not revalving oem type shocks is a good value or not. Usually they work almost as good as aftermarket, but dont have the wide range of adjustment.
 

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svsMD said:
I also agree, but do you agree that you should get a shock (636,10r,gixxer) revalved and resprung? I really don't see why a stock shock from another bike would hurt. And as far as dogbones ,as mentioned above, is it any different then using lowering links with a stck sv shock?
The key is the linkage. You have to understand how the rear suspension works to understand why you would need a new spring and valving.

Whether or not you "should" get it resprung/valved depends on you. Ideally, yes. If you're happy the way it is, then don't worry about it.
 
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NOsquid said:
The key is the linkage. You have to understand how the rear suspension works to understand why you would need a new spring and valving.

Whether or not you "should" get it resprung/valved depends on you. Ideally, yes. If you're happy the way it is, then don't worry about it.
Ideally yes.ideally would be if you weight over 200# and need heavy spring.assuming you will still ride on street at moderate speeds.
if you want to go track riding skip that step and go for good aftermarket shock.revalved gsxr/zx shock is just cheaper,nothing else.it is still behind compared to aftermarket(regardless how good you get it)and still not adjustable for ride hight.yes,you can change dog bones or have adjustable ones but that is wrong way of adjusting ride hight.
 

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imdbui said:
hey Drowe , how easy was swapping the 636 shock? did you just re place it? anything else ? thanks
You have to cut the battery box, then squeeze in the battery and get a new bolt/ nut for the bottom flange of the shock
 

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TWF said:
Ideally yes.ideally would be if you weight over 200# and need heavy spring.assuming you will still ride on street at moderate speeds.
if you want to go track riding skip that step and go for good aftermarket shock.revalved gsxr/zx shock is just cheaper,nothing else.it is still behind compared to aftermarket(regardless how good you get it)and still not adjustable for ride hight.yes,you can change dog bones or have adjustable ones but that is wrong way of adjusting ride hight.
Do you think an "intermediate" track rider could feel the difference? I have the reworked Gix shock and I don't feel like I have any issues with the rear end right now, though a bit more height wouldn't hurt. The tire wears smooth and it's not doing anything weird. Just curious.
 
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NOsquid said:
Do you think an "intermediate" track rider could feel the difference?
depends on rider.intermediate is still slow(dont get this wrong).
I raced on revalved gsxr shock for year and won every race,still does not mean shock was right.it worked,I knew what was wrong with it and rode around it.
faster you go better suspension you need or better suspension you have faster you can go,either way you want to look at it.
 

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Hehehe, I knew you'd say it depends. I'm very aware that I'm (painfully) slow ;D But, I'm probably going faster than a lot of people looking for a cheaper-than-Penske shock upgrade too.

What was your shock doing wrong that first year?
 
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NOsquid said:
Hehehe, I knew you'd say it depends. I'm very aware that I'm (painfully) slow ;D But, I'm probably going faster than a lot of people looking for a cheaper-than-Penske shock upgrade too.

What was your shock doing wrong that first year?
my biggest issue was ride hight.I revalved shock few times before it was were I wanted to be.
if you are good enough rider going fast enough to feel what is wrong with it do you want to spend time revalving/respringing shock and changing dog bones or do you want to concentrate on going faster and be able to adjust those things easy.
everybody is different.some people like rear jacked up some dont,some use front a lot some dont....etc.
some will be happy with revalved gsxr shock some will not.if you want to spend money to find out which group you fall in that is fine with me.if you fall in not happy group you wasted money.
 

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Alrighty, thanks. Money's going to track time for the time being but hopefully one day I'll get to compare.
 

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Lot of stuff being said on this post. - much of it not unbiased.

The GSXR/636 shock is only a starting point. Revalved & resprung for the specific rider makes it much better. They can be lengthened to gain ride height, but are not on the fly adjustable.

Aftermarket is generally the next step. If it is valved & sprung correctly, offers more damping adjustment and usually ride height adjustment.

All of this depends on your budget and goals for the bike.

The dog bone statements are simply not true. Funny how andy jumps into many posts with technical expertise but doesn't wade in when it comes to linkage & bell cranks. Didn't do so well with plotting bell curves? I doubt that Zoran has ever measured & plotted the SV vs GSXR vs 636 curves either, but makes statements about how wrong changing linkage length is. I have done this and if you want to know how it is effected, I'll tell you. No catch, you don't need to buy anything.

There are lengths that the links can be changed that has a positive effect on the bell crank curve. It also adds ride height. There are lengths that have negative effects on the curve also. Depends on the effect you are looking for.

This is true and unbiased "Raising the rear with the shock is best way once you have the linkage where you want it on the bell curve!"

Like I said a lot of stuff in the above posts. Most of it either untrue or biased.
 
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I did not go in same plotting and measuring school as you did.nor do I doubt what you do or care.I tought we went through this before.
for those that do want to know dog bones dont move linkage,they move swingarm.linkage stays where it is set with shock lenght.swingarm moves up/down depending on lenght of dog bones.this changes the way swingarm travels.it does not change the way linkage works unless you go to extreme,to long or to short.it will change relation between shock travel and wheel travel,usualy first inch of travel.if you want to cchange progresion you need to redesigne linkage itself.also some of shocks used have different amount of travel which can also make wheel travel different.
usualy we set swingarms at around 12-13 degree.at about 4.5 inch of travel at wheel swingarm will move about 10 degree.
so for example lets say fully extended it sits at 13 degree and fully compressed at 3.now lets assume this are good numbers.you change lenght of dog bones,lets say you put longer ones on.all you did is move swingarm up and your travel starts with less degree and ends with less.
this is what I have measured when I did it about 5 years ago.than I bought ride hight adjustable shock.
 

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TWF said:
depends on rider.intermediate is still slow(dont get this wrong).
I raced on revalved gsxr shock for year and won every race,still does not mean shock was right.it worked,I knew what was wrong with it and rode around it.
faster you go better suspension you need or better suspension you have faster you can go,either way you want to look at it.
How does one ride around the shock?  Could you give some examples of what you did?  I know that the shock should be within the range of working but how would you ride around the bad points.  I'm very curious.

Grav.
 
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GraVitY said:
How does one ride around the shock? Could you give some examples of what you did? I know that the shock should be within the range of working but how would you ride around the bad points. I'm very curious.

Grav.
you put bad shock on middle of parking lot and run circles around it :)
you have to be smooth to get away with it.by smooth I mean everything you do with bike,shifting,braking,on/off throttle control,body moving.....
if you have good feel you can recognize where problem is.once you do you can adjust how you do things at problem spot.sometime it s changing line,sometime you move on bike different,sometime you take different aproach to entry and exit of corner or how you go over bump.every situation is different,there is no one thing that will fix it.seat time and experience helps finding problem and correcting it.
 

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TWF said:
you put bad shock on middle of parking lot and run circles around it :)
Smart A$$... :p

To take this further, how would you know that the rear shock is causing the problem and not the front forks? I know it sounds trivial but how would you know it's the shock and not a warped wheel per say?


GRav.
 
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