What you call manifold hoses are the crank breather hoses. They don't connect to the carbs at all- with the airbox, they go into a little collector box and that vents into the airbox- any excess oil also goes into the airbox.

There's 3 standard approaches here- one is to extend them down to the front chainwheel, that way any oil that blows up the breather becomes instant chain oil ;D Another is to retain the stock collector box (it unscrews from the airbox) and fit an exit hose to it, and have that go clear of the bike somewhere- you can add a filter. The third is to add some sort of catch bottle. Remember these hoses are to release case pressure so you can't seal them off or put them into a sealed catch bottle, it has to actually vent somewhere.

I'd use the standard collector, myself, and fit a breather filter.

 

There's 3 standard approaches here- one is to extend them down to the front chainwheel, that way any oil that blows up the breather becomes instant chain oil ;D

I like ;D

 

Thanks, Northwind! That is actually exactly what I did. I used the stock collector box. But I didn't think to add a line to dump it out the back of the bike.

However, my current sticking point is the vacuum nozzle from the fuel tank. I'm not sure what to do with it. The stock carbs had a line going from the carb, onto the nozzle on the fuel tank.
The keihn carbs don't seem to have that nozzle.

So I'm stuck on that right now.

 

Holy Crap!

It's Running!

It's Loud!

It Sounds Powerful.

 

When I ran 38mm Mikuni RS flatslides on my gsxr, they were louder than the exhaust at anything under 5krpm.

Flatslide btw, not flatside =]

 

Sheesh, give me some credit for at least spelling Keihin properly. ;D

Just don't ask me to pronounce it.


"Keenan"
"Keninanina...."
"Whatever"

 

Did you just use the stock SV intake adapters to mate the carbs to the cylinder?

Looks good. And thanks for the pics...! ;D

 

The carbs were bare, and all I did was just plop them down on top of the existing stock SV manifold. I don't remember seeing any adaptors, but I wasn't looking.

Pics of a nearly finished install.

Before and after cleaning the interior of the bike.

 

Just in case you hadn't figured it out yet, there's no need for the vacuum hose to go to the carbs anymore. Your bike is not completely vacuum free! (Just don't touch that throttle too much unless the bike is running, lol). Enjoy the flatslides!

 

I want two of those too :love10:

Have you had it on a dyno yet?

 

I don't get it. How does the gas come out of the petc0ck without vacuum? Do you have to use a different petc0ck?

 

No, I believe you still use the rear piston vacuum takeoff to run the petcock (and the fuel pump) but you don't need it for the carbs.

 

As far as I know, there's no vacuum being pulled in the system at all--its "yes gas" or "no gas", lol. ;D When you twist the throttle, gas comes out of the petcock--with or without the bike running (hopefully that makes sense, there's no vacuum needed for the gas to flow). This is one of the downsides to flatslides. If you park it at a bike night and some idiot wants to twist the throttle on your bike and flood it, its an easily accomplished task. A good reason to carry a spare set of spark plugs.

 

The SV petcock is vacuum actuated. So's the fuel pump... Do you replace those when you fit the flatslides? (just curious, it's a mod I ruled out after riding a Bandit 750 with them fitted, the idea of starting the bike in sub-zero wet conditions with flatslides does not appeal!)

 

Thats a good question....I didn't do the install myself but I don't recall having to purchase a petcock or fuel pump, so I guess that does remain stock. If its a closed loop vacuum (between the tank and the carbs alone), it could very well still be there. I know I had a few less hoses connected once the FCR's were mounted though.... If the fuel pump and petcock are still pulling vacuum from the carbs, would gas still flow with the bike being off?

 

If the fuel pump and petcock are still pulling vacuum from the carbs, would gas still flow with the bike being off?

A tiny wee bit, whatever was already in the system, but not very much.

 

You definately need the vacuum. I spent 20 minutes trying to start the motor before I remembered about vacuum. After I hooked up the vacuum, she started up on the 2nd try.

I'm having another problem though. The 2nd throttle cable is the "return cable" and I can't get it connected to the rear carb because the manifold is in the way. Martin, I looked at your pictures and I only see one throttle cable coming from your right clip-on area. Do you have the return cable hooked up? I mean it runs without it, but the 2nd cable ensures that things close properly.

I just can't figure out how to get it connected, because the manifold is too close to the carb's throttle mounting flange. There is not enough room.
Turns out that Sudco will fax you directions (thanks, Sudco!) but the directions suck. hahah They didn't help at all.

 

No return cable hooked up on mine. I've yet to have an issue with it. Keeping the throttle cable lubed properly and making sure nothing gets in the way of the carbs is my insurance, and then there's always the clutch lever if the throttle gets stuck.... My shop has installed numerous flatslides on bikes (mostly race bikes) without the return cable and has never seen an issue with it. I'm personally not too worried.

 

My shop has installed numerous flatslides on bikes (mostly race bikes) without the return cable and has never seen an issue with it. I'm personally not too worried.

Hmm... I woulda thought that wouldn't make it past tech inspection.. but I don't know crap, so I'm not surprised to be wrong... lol... Looks like I may get to see ya at the rally!

 

Then it must be the accelerator pumps that are the cause for concern, that dump fuel directly into the carb whether its on or off, not any of the other jets. That does make a bit more sense though....

 

Personally, I'd never run flatslides without the return cable, but my only experience with them are on I4 which obviously have more two worry about than a twin.

 

I'm at the same point with my FCR install where the engine is turning over but no gas is flowing. The vaccuum hose isn't connected to anything at the moment. I'm heading down to the garage now to have a look at what I've missed but if anyone has a clear indication of what line is meant to go where that would be great.

 

Here's a pic of what you need to fabricate to get the gas to flow. You are looking at the top left hand portion of the pic. See the line from the vacuum port on the feul tank petcock? From there it runs to a "T" which then branches and one line heads towards the fuel pump and another to the rear vacuum port on the intake adapter.

 

Small points: they are KAY-heens, or KAY-een carburetors. Most don't bother with the country of origin, so call them KEE-ins -- that's easier to say.

The name Keihin (京浜) comes from the region they're built in in Japan, an industrial one derived from the name of Tokyo (東京) and Yokohama (横浜). It also includes a town you may have heard of, Kawasaki. ;D The alternate pronunciations of the characters make for kei + hin. Kind of like Seatac in Washington, or Texarkana on the TX/AR border.

Not a fan of flatslides on streetbikes, but for the track they're pretty cool... I remember listening to them on old GSX-R1100 racebikes, that slide rattle... sex. ;D

 

I did exactly what wacky did. You use the rear vacuum port with a T. One side goes to the fuel pump and the other to the petcock. You don't need no stinkin return cable. I have yet to see someone who runs one. Watch the routing of your rear cable. It is supposed to loop around with a nice arc. What did you do with your throttle position sensor? I taped mine in WOT position and zip tied it somewhere.
I have these carbs, and have done all the work myself, so if you have questions I can answer them.
ac

 

I taped mine in WOT position and zip tied it somewhere.

How did you do this? I just disconnected mine and taped the end over?

 

Zoran is the one that told me to set it to WOT! When you say disconnected, do you mean you pulled the plug or just removed it from the carb?
ac

 

:dontknow:

I pulled the plug and left the TPS attached to the original carbs (which are now sitting in a box).

 

thanks for the tip. I ended up working it out myself and was going to post a pic too but you've beaten me to it

No ride test yet as my next testing session is a few weeks off yet but the sound and responsiveness at idle is incredible!!! Can't wait to ride!

 

Had Johnny Cheese performance in Round Rock, TX pull the bike today. It got 70 hp on the dynojet. He said I was running waaay rich. "Turbo rich" he said. He said I needed to swap out needles and turn back the idle mixture screw.

Bike has the 39 keihins and a full exhaust and K&N pod filters. I'm hoping it'll pull mid 70's when I get the richness issue fixed.

Anyone know where to get the idle mixture screwdriver at? Who sells it for cheap? Also, does anyone have any leftover keihin needles, etc?

 

Was he doing low, midlow, mid, midhigh, and high load tests? how does he know it needs needles? What % throttle opening is he suggesting the needles will help. What is your current air/fuel? What dyno/sniffer? Figure out the answers to these questions before you spend any more money on parts or on his dyno.

I strongly suggest going down 2 steps on the main and 2-3 steps down on the pilot, stick with stock needles. The idle mixture screw is just a regular screw driver, not too complicated. Also, you are not wanting to mess with the idle mixture screw, you are looking to play with the air jet screws (there are 2) They do make a difference, manuals imply that they are equal to installing mains/pilots, but they are not. Start with jets if youre way off and then play with air jets for fine tuning at the track.

At 70hp you are pretty low assuming your on at an average sea level and average reading dyno. Ive yet to see one of our stock motors with M4 pipe and 41mm FCRs (about 5 tested) Make less than 74, and with 39s they were making 75-76 out of the sudco box (2 tested). But you need to be looking at power delivery, air/fuel ratio, and probably most importantly on the SV the torque curve.


Ohhh, and for the love of god, clean your bike more often!!!!

 

Johnny Cheese has a great rep, so I didn't question his advice. And the dyno was less then I spent on lunch later that day. hahah
He's responsible for several of the 200+mph hayabusas at the Texas Mile last week. www.texasmile.com

I'm not much of a carb guy, so I can't answer your other questions. Though he did mention that I was at 11.5:1 air fuel ration.
He did suggest as a "starting point", that I turn the idle mixture screw in one turn. And bring the slide needle clip two positions leaner (move clip up 2 spots).
And he asked me to find out what my pilot and main jet sizes were. Then to contact Sudco and ask them what is suggested for my bike & mods.

I just got the carbs off. Now I've gotta figure out where that slide needle is. And how to check the sizes of the needles.

Yeah, I wish the guy who owned the bike before me would have washed it. The thing was filthy when I bought it! Still has dirt in places I can't get to.

 

take top cover off and look in there at slide. there is 5mm allen screwed in to slide. take it off and needle is under it. there are leathers stamped on needle right under clip groves.
OCELT is usually one used on sv.
main jet is around 160-165 and pilot 52.

 

Thanks, Veee. Those were solid directions and it was pretty easy once I got in there.

Problem is, the throttle cable screw-neck snapped in half while I was re-attaching the first carb. Now I'll have to wait till next week when a replacement comes in. Hopefully Sudco will be kind enough to replace it free of charge.

Here's the (edited) slide needle allen nut waiting to be removed. Mine was actually a 4mm.