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Search key words: exhaust baffle restrictor muffler removal mod modification restrictorectomy

Since the original thread was obliterated in the apparent takeover of the server, here's a new thread for you guys.  I personal don't own a motorcycle, though I will whenever I've earned my Masters in Mechanical Engineering.  My friend, Brad, who is a member on this forum, owns a copper-tone SV650-S.  Tonight, we spent 40 minutes removing the exhaust baffle, and HOLY WOWZERS! did it make a difference!

Foreword: despite the fact that this is a write up on how to do this modification, you are doing this modification AT YOUR OWN RISK to both personal injury and property damage.  Do not attempt this if you feel the instructions are vague and/or you do not have enough mechanical finesse/expertise to pull this off (in other words, if you don?t understand these simple instructions, or you don?t know what the hell you doing, then DON?T attempt this mod).  Also, please don?t whine about the size/quality of the pix.  They?re this big for a reason, and that reason is so that you can see what detail can barely be picked up by a cheap Hewlitt-Packard digicam.  Also, let me say again that I don't own a bike, so I will apologize ahead of time if some of the terminology that I use is inaccurate; just PM/email me about any errors and I'll be sure to correct them.

How-to:

Tools needed (I'll take pix of these tools eventually; I just forgot to.):
1. Assortment of pliers: needle nose, adjustable small jaw, lockjaw (plumber's) pliers.
2. 1/4" and/or 5/16" drill bit.
3. Power drill.
4. 12" long, 1-1/2" inner diameter pipe, or 1-1/4" I.D. if you use my method of cutting and bending the exhaust tip.  This can be had from ANY The Home Depot store's plumbing department.  It's a "galvanized pipe nipple".
5. BFM or BFH (Big F---in Mallet/Hammer...your choice).
6. Zipties to lock down the front (and the rear if no stand is used) brake handle(s).  (This is optional, but certainly helps.)
7. Small jaw bolt cutter (this is totally optional but will help in crushing the exhaust tip).
8. Someone else to hold the bike steady hammering on the pipe-to-restrictor assembly. (Again, this is optional, but it certainly will help...it also allows you to carry on a conversation with someone other than yourself.)

For starters, we crushed the end of the exhaust pipe to allow for the use of a 1-1/4? galvanized pipe, instead of the more commonly reccommended 1-1/2? pipe.  This allowed for a snugger fit with the 1-1/4" pipe when beating the isht out of the baffle to break it loose.



Next, we used a bolt cutter to snip the crimped portions of the tip (just at the end) and then bent/crushed the pipe even smaller.  The crushing was further accomplished using small jaw pliers and needle nose pliers.




Following the crushing and cutting, a 5/16? drill bit was used to drill holes through the retainer plate.  Though the bit snapped off halfway through the process, we found that it was actually easier to use a ¼? drill bit.  You have to drill holes in the rear baffle retainer in a circular fashion such that there are never pieces in-between the holes that are wider than a ¼?.



After drilling ALL of the holes, you must use a wide blade straight slot screwdriver (a.k.a. ?flathead?) to knock out the metal inbetween the drilled holes.  This will prevent the rear baffle retainer from impeding the walloping process in knocking the baffle out.



As you can see in the following two pictures, a 1-1/4? galvanized pipe was slipped onto the crushed end.  With the bike up on a ?Pit Bull? (I believe) stand, zipties holding the front brake handle locked down, and Brad bracing the front of the bike so that it wouldn?t continue to slide across the floor, I began flogging the isht out of the end of the pipe.  We lost count of the number of swings after about 10, but that was because I wasn?t hitting the pipe hard enough at first.  Once Brad began bracing the front of the bike, it only took three or four HARD! swings to break the baffle loose.





After breaking the baffle loose, you can see that the end of the baffle that once existed flush with the end of the pipe, now resided just over an inch back inside of the entire pipe assembly.  It was loose enough that it could be turned, but it was catching inside of the pipe.





After subtly wiggling the freed baffle in such a way that the torn welds would fit through their respective gaps in the forward baffle retainer (where the welds originally were), the baffle EASILY slid out of the pipe.  If you look at the following pics, you can see why there was a hang up and why the baffle has to be worked out.  Others have complained about having to break the weld beads since they're so long by twisting/turning the baffle inside of the pipe, but fortunately for us, the weld beads on this bike?s baffle didn?t exceed ¾?.




Don?t ask me how the pipe was crushed on this end?I really don?t know.



As you can see in the following pic, the baffle is almost exactly 10? long.  Also in the following pic, you can see how BOTH ends of the 1-1/4" pipe were FUBAR?ed during the whacking process.



IMPRESSIONS: I liked the new sound of the bike, and Brad LOVED the sound.  He was dying to make some noise with this bike, and now he has it...practically for free. There is DEFINITELY a lot more bass coming from the bike as I heard him running up through the gears until about 1 mile (linear distance) away...even through the woods! (I live halfway to BFE...don't hate...).  Word to the wise: upon initial start up after the baffle removal, DO NOT STAND DIRECTLY BEHIND THE BIKE.  We noticed that A LOT of metal shavings and exhaust soot come out of the pipe afterwards.  Luckily, neither of us was behind the bike, but we did see the dark metallic cloud come out when revving up.

All-in-all, I'd rate this as about a 5/6 of 10 on the difficulty scale of modification...STRICLY because you have to bend the baffle end so much and then drill holes, and then whack the isht out of a separate pipe.
As far as worthwhile rating, I'd give this a definite 10 of 10 due to sound, appearance, AND SAFETY.  Sorry guys, but your OEM exhaust is REALLY quiet...this mod makes people FAR more aware of your presence AND adds a lot of bark to your bike's bite.  Remember, all of this is coming from a guy who hasn't yet owned a bike (but will someday) and rides one every chance he gets.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

Thanks for all the info specially the pics.Can this work on 1st gen SV?I mean the construction of the baffle as far as welds etc.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

I chose decent replacement. :shock:


Great write up IMO and great pics except for the sweaty dude. :shock: :lol:
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

Arvan said:
Thanks for all the info specially the pics.Can this work on 1st gen SV?I mean the construction of the baffle as far as welds etc.
Since this was performed on an 03 and we don't have any 1st Gens to test it out on we can't say for sure. I'm the donor cycle my friend tested his mechanical engineering skills out on. :) I haven't heard any SV's w/ modified exhausts in person so I can't compare this to getting an aftermarket pipe, but in the cost to result category to me it can't be beat. 8) Engine noise takes over after ~5k rpm but the throatyness can definetly be heard on the downrev.

Only difficult parts I noticed (since I was primarily a spectator :oops: ) were the loss of the bit and the attempt to find a pipe to go over the restrictor/baffle. If someone wants to attempt this, I HIGHLY reccomend you find a sutible pipe before hand. The bike was up on a Pit Bull foward handle rear stand. Chip hit the pipe over 16 times b4 he decided to stop pussy footing around and get serious. My 135 lbs scrawny ass could barely keep the bike from moving but the job got done. 8)

After all was said, I was more than willing to let my motorcyle deprived friend take a quick spin around the neighborhood (fortunately he fits in my gear or he'd be screwed :p ). The difference in the sound of the bike is like night and day now. Before I could only hear him coming from about 30 yards away. Now, he couldn't go far enough (~100 yards) for me not to hear and when I left as he said, over a mile away I was audible. If anybody near Tallahassee wants to check it out just shoot me a PM. When I get a min. I'll try to post up some video. :twisted:

-Brad

P.S. Thanks for doing all this Chip!!! 8) 8)
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

WOW!  check out the veins in the sweaty dude's arms!  looks like they're gonna explode!!! :shock:  :shock:  :shock:

nice write up, btw.

Personally, it doesnt sound all that loud to me...DEFINATELY louder than stock, DEFINATELY worth the effort, DEFINATELY much improved tone...but I cant imagine somone hearing me from a mile away (unless we were in the woods in BFE, like you said).

If you use a 1.5 inch pipe (instead of the 1.25 inch pipe suggested in this write up), you can avoid the bolt cutter snipping...however, using the smaller pipe might help you avoid bending the end of the restrictor and making it difficult to pull out, which is what happened to me.

here's the original post that was lost in the server crash, reposted
http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?topic=38130.0

again, nice write up, nice pics.
 

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Re: Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

extreme.serene said:
Don?t ask me how the pipe was crushed on this end?I really don?t know.
Probably from the restrictor getting pushed up against the perforated core. The restrictor isn't mounted parallel to the can, it's angled. So pushing it up into the can probably did that.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

Don't mean to be "that guy", but I, of course, tried my own way and just wedged a 1/4" galv pipe onto the end, but couldn't get any results. It was bottoming out on the cut out portion of the pipe...

My question: Do I just need to swing harder, or do I need to suck it up and try to find a 1-1/2" pipe? (I don't have bolt cutters to smash the tip down)

If I need to buy a 1-1/2" pipe, will the 6" nipple extension work or would I need to find a full pipe? (The local Lowe's only has pipes up to 1-1/4")

Thanks and sorry to be a pain.

(FWIW, if you don't want to spend the cash and feel like dorking around with your bike.... this mod is GREAT!!!! And I'm not even finished yet. Just cutting out the ring around the restrictor makes the bike sound ten times better. Just my opinion)

GREAT write up and the pics are just fine for those of us needing to see details.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

I used a 1.5"x12" threaded galvanized nipple...it was 2 or 3 bucks at Home Depot, and worked fine.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think a 6" piece would be fine.

I seriously doubt you'd be able to break the restrictor free by using anything stuck into it, as it's basically an open tube all the way through, and you wouldnt have anything solid for your pipe to seat against.

Good luck!
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

gahdzila said:
I used a 1.5"x12" threaded galvanized nipple...it was 2 or 3 bucks at Home Depot, and worked fine.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think a 6" piece would be fine.

I seriously doubt you'd be able to break the restrictor free by using anything stuck into it, as it's basically an open tube all the way through, and you wouldnt have anything solid for your pipe to seat against.

Good luck!
Thanks GZ! I was wondering if someone was able to find a 1-1/2 galvanized, or if they didn't really exist. I'll take a look today and see what's there. Thanks again!
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

gahdzila said:
...
I'm not 100% sure, but I think a 6" piece would be fine.
...
I used a 6" pipe, it was almost too short. I hammered it in really far until it was free of the baffle, & there was less than an inch left outside, not cool. I'd get at least 8", a foot or more would be better to give yourself some leverage.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

But the 6" pipe worked as far as getting the baffle free? Good deal. I can buy a 1-1/2" adapter for a whopping 2 bucks and screw it on to my 1-1/4" galv pipe and do it that way... thanks for the info.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

theoldguy said:
But the 6" pipe worked as far as getting the baffle free? Good deal. I can buy a 1-1/2" adapter for a whopping 2 bucks and screw it on to my 1-1/4" galv pipe and do it that way... thanks for the info.
the 1.5 portion really only needs to be long enough to clear the shiney end hole part of the restrictor (maybe 3 inches)...the rest of the pipe is just giving room for it to be outside the muffler for you to beat it with the hammer. You want something longer to beat on, to help ensure against the hammer slipping and hitting your bike. Since you'll be buying fittings and stuff anyway, I'd suggest 12 inches total length...longer would be overkill, shorter would make you more likely to make a mistake. I'd also suggest that you use a solid pipe if possible (rather than mating two pipes), as you're really going to be beating the crap out of it and a solid pipe would be stronger.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

Thanks chief! The info has been a HUGE help. And thank you extreme for posting (re-posting) this method with the pictures you did. I really appreciate all of the help!
 
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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

theoldguy said:
Thanks chief! The info has been a HUGE help. And thank you extreme for posting (re-posting) this method with the pictures you did. I really appreciate all of the help!
Don't forget to thank Brad. It was his bike and his idea to do a write-up...I was just sitting around avoiding homework and decided to kill an hour by doing it for him. :lol:
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

extreme.serene said:
theoldguy said:
Thanks chief! The info has been a HUGE help. And thank you extreme for posting (re-posting) this method with the pictures you did. I really appreciate all of the help!
Don't forget to thank Brad. It was his bike and his idea to do a write-up...I was just sitting around avoiding homework and decided to kill an hour by doing it for him. :lol:
Absolutely! Thanks to you too Brad. Great write up and I'm thoroughly enjoying this project and the sound increase.

Note: For any of those trying this, I HIGHLY encourage you to check for the pipe first. This can be a little tricky to find a pipe if you use the 1-1/2" inch. If you do this mod w/ the 1-1/4", Lowe's or HD will have what you're looking for.
I'm still working on getting a BF hammer b/c I crushed my rubber mallet trying to get that pipe worked in there. It's a good reason to keep having people over and drinking some brews each night. Thanks to everyone involved for sharing your knowledge and your pictures.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

theoldguy said:
...I'm still working on getting a BF hammer b/c I crushed my rubber mallet ....
Wait a sec, were you going to use a rubber mallet?

No way, you'll never get it loose. It wont work. You need a real fa sho big ass heavy ass hammer. Check out the pic of the one in this thread, that's about the size/shape of the one I used...and it still took a long time with a lot of swinging the hammer up over my head and beating with all of my might.

Just buy one, they're not that expensive (maybe $10-$15 I think?)...you'd be surprised how useful it is sometimes to have a hammer like that in your tool box.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

gahdzila said:
theoldguy said:
...I'm still working on getting a BF hammer b/c I crushed my rubber mallet ....
Wait a sec, were you going to use a rubber mallet?

No way, you'll never get it loose. It wont work. You need a real fa sho big ass heavy ass hammer. Check out the pic of the one in this thread, that's about the size/shape of the one I used...and it still took a long time with a lot of swinging the hammer up over my head and beating with all of my might.

Just buy one, they're not that expensive (maybe $10-$15 I think?)...you'd be surprised how useful it is sometimes to have a hammer like that in your tool box.
:oops: Yeah, and I'm a relatively strong person... you should see the rubber mallet :shock:.... That's why I had to throw that side note in there. I had a rubber mallet on hand, but not one of those big arse hammers, so I used what I had. I like to try out diff. mods with what I have on hand to see what the results are. Needless to say, the right side of my body is twice as strong as it was two days ago, courtesy of the rubber mallet.
 
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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

Well...if you were in/near Tallahassee, FL, I would say that we could meet up at my place and I'd knock that isht out of there. I could probably get the job done in a half hour now that I've already done it once. I make this offer because I don't mind doing this stuff and I know Brad's looking for peoples to ride with.
 

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Exhaust restrictor/baffle removal (New Thread)

extreme.serene said:
Well...if you were in/near Tallahassee, FL, I would say that we could meet up at my place and I'd knock that isht out of there. I could probably get the job done in a half hour now that I've already done it once. I make this offer because I don't mind doing this stuff and I know Brad's looking for peoples to ride with.
Thanks for that! I'd take ya'll up on it in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, I'm about 5 hours from Seminole country, so I'll be annoying my neighbors tonight. I went over to the local hardware store and the hammers are only $10-15.... (that, plus the 8 for another 12 pack) total cost, roughly 23 dollars and missing a few sitcoms that I never watch anyways. Thanks again guys and I'll holler your direction if I make my way down the coast this summer (in the plans, just not sure when)
 
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