[Vlad2k3]

Hey Guys,

I am trying to use my impact wrench on the three bolts that hold the carb bowl into place. I just sprayed some liquid wrench on it, and am ready to use my wrench.

On my wrench there is a silver dial(?) that moves.

and I am not sure if with the impact of the hammer the springs move in the same direction or opposite directions after each impact. Like the first blow it will turn left, and the next blow It will turn right.

here is a picture of my wrench

My working outside

Top two Bowl bolts

 

[Spierings]

Are those bolt that tight that you need a impact wrench?

 

[Vlad2k3]

Yeah they were. I also read a horror story from here about a guy who stripped them the first time he took them off, so I used his warning to use one. So I bought one, its a nice tool to have too.

I just figured it out, I had to reset it every time.

And this is why i have been wanting to get to my bowls. I put some Stabil in my tank 9 months ago, and this weekend when I fired it up with my dad, it was running badly. Now I may know why.

That is some red-orange muck in my bowls.

 

[tk1971]

Why not take your chances and try it with a long handled screwdriver first.

The problem that I see you having is that with the carbs off the bike, everything will move when you are working on it. Especially if you plan on using a hammer driven impact wrench. If you strip them you can always use vise grips to break them loose and then replace them with stainless socket cap screws.

tk

 

[doxiedog]

+1 don't put those cheesy screws back in there.

 

[imdying]

I'd probably use a T handle stubby driver on those, it's a little less brutal. Then chuck the screws and put some allen key cap screws in there

 

[RichDesmond]

Be REEEAAALLLY careful about using a hammer on a carb!!!! The pot metal they use for the bodies can't take much impact. The advantage of the impact driver in this application is that the bits usually fit the screws better than than screwdriver tips do.
Despite the best efforts stripping these screws is still common. If that happens a vice grip clamped on the screw head often works. After that it's drill and EZ-Out time.
Regardless of how you get them out, replace with allen head bolts.

 

[Suzanne]

Hope you changed those gaskets too. Sorry, I have worked on alot of carbs, some that hadn't been used in 20 or more years and I never had to use an impact wrench on one.

 

[imdying]

The advantage of the impact driver in this application is that the bits usually fit the screws better than than screwdriver tips do.

Naw, it's just a matter of using the correct screwdriver... Pozi and Philips heads are definitely not the same thing.

The real advantage is having a big arse handle that you can get a grip on. I second the info on the 'pot metal'... they don't like the back, but having said that, the impact driver is still a great tool because of the purchase your hands can get on the handle. T driver is good because you can put a lot of effort into pushing down whilst you twist.

 

[andyauger]

There should be a mark on the screwdriver telling which direction to turn it to get it to tighten or loosen (L = loosen, R = tighten). If not, just push down real hard and see what direction the tip turns.

Before smacking it with a hammer (not too hard) push down and turn the screwdriver so that it's "loaded" in the direction you want to turn the screw. Again, not too hard, just hold it (in this case) turning counterclockwise. The tips don't turn much, so you have to have it loaded against the screw to get any action.

 

[Vlad2k3]

I would have used other tools, if I had them. I had the impact wrench and it worked fine. I wasn't like I wailing away on it. It was the best tool in my collection for it. I used a decent amount of liquid wrench before hand and used my screw driver and it didn't budge. I don't want to strip anymore bolts. I put it all back together after a good spray of carb cleaner, and put it back on the bike after I drained out all the fuel lines to make sure now of that stabil was in there.

Now my problem is still having a popping sound while running. I checked my electrical; replacing the battery with a high capacity, rewired my reg/rec from a gsx750r, and checked the gaps on my new spark plugs. Drained the oil that has been sitting in there for 9 months, and replaced with new filter and Shell Rotella synthetic. When running it wouldn't start with out idle. When on idle it would hesistate and jump in rpms. I wish I could have gotten a recording of the problem before it crapped out on me. But I will post a clip on youtube of my current problem as soon as I am done studying my Differential Equations for next weeks text.

David

 

[Suzanne]

Did you clean the whole carb? or just the bowl? I mean, did you soak the jets and get the crud out of them? Also, what air filter are you running? And do you have aftermarket pipes?

 

[Vlad2k3]

Hey Suzanne

No I just sprayed out the bottom of the bowl area, and I am running stock filter replacement and pipes.

 

[Suzanne]

Ok, first off, you need to FULLY clean your carbs. take them apart and let them soak for a minimum of an hour in a carb cleaner. Then, put them back together and sync them. Then let's see if you still have a popping. It sounds like your idle jet is clogged. Just spraying out the bottom of the bowl is not going to help your carbs run correctly.

 

[eisenfaust]

I had to use an impact wrench on the fuel rail bolts on my SV's throttle bodies. The threads in the TB still got kind of galled up; I'm wondering if maybe they were overtorqued or otherwise messed up from the factory.

I replaced my bolts with some 6mm allen socket head screws. Much better!

I honestly cant believe everything isn't an allen or hex head screw/bolt on a modern bike. Screwdrivers are so 20th century.