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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a feeling my clutch engagement is causing some stalling issues. When i start the bike in gear and have the clutch lever fully pulled in, the bike lunges forward slightly so i know its not fully disengaging. Also i have noticed on the freeway sometimes if i pull in the clutch the bike will die randomly. Not everytime though.

I read about adjusting the cable to fix this but the 1k is hydraulic. Suggestions??
 

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Got aftermarket levers on your bike?
Have you tried bleeding the clutch?
 

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As long as the thing is bled, there isn't a lot you can do with it other than making sure your pushrod is clean and lubed. The chain throws an amazing amount of mung on it and it can get sticky going into the seal.

The clutch can only push the hat so far when you pull the lever to the bar, and they WILL lunge a little if started in gear or CLUNK pretty loud going from N to 1. Mine clunks less now with the DL hub installed, and also shifts a bunch nicer out on the road like it is disengaging more cleanly than before. Something about the slop in the BTL seems to make the shift quality worse...at least it did to me.

The levers are adjustable and you might like it set to push the rod as far as possible when fully clamping the lever as it might mitigate your symptoms a bit. What you describe sounds pretty normal for the machine, though. It shouldn't stall out on the road, so you might have some things needing a tweak or three there.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea i have levers set to the shortest setting (I have small hands). I will check the pushrod clean it and raise the idle a little. Maybe change the plugs and see if thats whats going on since this is normal for the bike.
 

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Pull the front sprocket cover off while you're there and clean out all chain lube. My pushrod had a thick nasty ring of it around one end. Then replace the fluid and bleed the system.
 

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if you did what they said from above and still are having issues then drain your fluids and pull your clutch cover and inspect your clutch basket, make sure you springs are properly torqued down and make sure your chain is at the right slack. if your clutch basket springs are too loose you can get a plate to dislodge and come to rest between the clutch hat and the spool the clutch plates go on. when this happens you will get something like your bike will disengage but will not re engage the gears. also if you want to convert your hydrolic clutch to a cable system Spears Enterprises (google them) sells a race track cable conversion kit for the sv1000. i believe it cost around $160 and can be installed with minimal modifying to the front sprocket cover to mount the cable setup on the slave cylinder. any other issues feel free to ask
 

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you have the clicker[adjuster] on the lever not allowing the clutch to work properly...

even tho the lever is 'all in' it's not using ALL the travel available in the lever, which corresponds to the weird clutch feel/action...

space it out a couple clicks [widen the grip] and see if that doesn't fix it...



if not, could be the slave cyl on the motor...
 

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There isnt any adjustment in the engagement of the plates. Its really either engaged or not. This is because of the amount of fluid the mater cylinder moves during the lever pull. If you want this to feel like most other sport bike clutches which use 1/2 of the lever action to engage the clutch, you have 2 options. 1 - convert to a cable setup or 2 - get a master cylinder that moves less fluid, then it will take more of the stroke to move the plates. I believe someone used a master from an aprillia. You can search it. i just gave up and got used to the stock setup.

A small lunge is normal when it goes in gear, but its more of a kick, the bike really shouldn't roll forward. If you roll and continue to roll then you aren't disengaging fully and you need to bleed the master.
Dying on the highway with the clutch in may be a low idle. Check to see if you are at +/- 1200.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
There isnt any adjustment in the engagement of the plates. Its really either engaged or not. This is because of the amount of fluid the mater cylinder moves during the lever pull. If you want this to feel like most other sport bike clutches which use 1/2 of the lever action to engage the clutch, you have 2 options. 1 - convert to a cable setup or 2 - get a master cylinder that moves less fluid, then it will take more of the stroke to move the plates. I believe someone used a master from an aprillia. You can search it. i just gave up and got used to the stock setup.

A small lunge is normal when it goes in gear, but its more of a kick, the bike really shouldn't roll forward. If you roll and continue to roll then you aren't disengaging fully and you need to bleed the master.
Dying on the highway with the clutch in may be a low idle. Check to see if you are at +/- 1200.
I was at 1100 idle. I raised it up to about 1300 and havent had any issues with dying out the last few days. Im going to increase a click or two on the clutch lever and see if that helps. but so far so good. Thanks all for the help :)
 

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just keep in mind that your bike has a serious amount of power in the ingnition pulse. this makes your bike vibrate a lot more than others and it will vibrate certain parts loose EVEN IF YOU NEVER TOO OFF THAT COVER. a bolt or nut doesnt need the side cover removed to vibrate loose. there are things on your clutch basket that can effect your shifting too even though some people here either choose to ignore it or just havent messed with a basket enough to realize how it functions. you have tension springs on your basket hat that provide the resistance in your clutch that you feel at your handle. you need the fluid pressure with no bubbles of course but if you have nothing to press that pressure against then you have no basket action and no resistance. these screw are there to lock your springs down to the right tension to make teh clutch re-engage when you let the handle out. if those springs are broken or worn you will not get proper clutch action. and if those springs are weak or broken you will allow more hat movement and separation from the basket and it will let the first clutch plate slip off the gear spool and fall in the space between the basket and the hat. if that happens you will not get any gear drive even when you let the handle all the way out. so yes there is adjustments on your basket and options you can do there such as a DL1000 clutch basket and hub swap or get high performance clutch springs. make sure they are properly torqued down if you are still having clutch issues.
 
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