[kodde]

Thanks TeeRiver!

The 0.1uF is right next to the 2x10kOhm resistors, between where the Arduino sits. I know it's messy to just look at from a picture, but they should be wired correctly. I really tried to optimize space-wise.

Just realized that I missed the 2 x 10uF caps and 0.1uF cap that should go with the regulator to filter noise. Think those will be necessary? T_T
I should probably fix this as I will be annoyed about it even if I could do without them. Crap!

Hmm... good point regarding the vibration. Epoxy? As in the 2 component glue? Now to figure out a supporting feature for the RF-module.

I decide not to go to the garage yet and instead tackle writing the software. It's my one of my first real Arduino coding projects, mostly been running the examples so far. Also, first time writing with the nRF24L01+ libraries. It was surprisingly easy. Think I got the core functionality working. Time will tell if I need to fix any bugs or optimize. It works as it should here at home. Soon I'm off to the garage!

 

[TeeRiver]

Nice video!

...The 0.1uF is right next to the 2x10kOhm resistors, between where the Arduino sits.

OK, I thought those were the regulator caps (though far away). The high frequency noise filter caps (the 0.1uF) should be ceramic, not electrolytic as in the photo. Electrolytics are too slow. What value are they? Electorlytics usually aren't small. If high capacitance is on the flasher input, they will take time to discharge and can affect the flasher ON/OFF time. Looks OK in the video though...

... Just realized that I missed the 2 x 10uF caps and 0.1uF cap that should go with the regulator to filter noise. Think those will be necessary? T_T
I should probably fix this as I will be annoyed about it even if I could do without them. Crap!

Only the 10uF at the add-on regulator input is necessary, the 10uF and 0.1uF on the output can be eliminated since the input cap on the Mini's regulator will serve, and 0.1uF cap on the Mini's output will filter high frequency noise before it reaches the controller.

...Hmm... good point regarding the vibration. Epoxy? As in the 2 component glue? Now to figure out a supporting feature for the RF-module

Yes, 5 minute 2 part epoxy or any good gap filling glue will work. It's amazing how fast connections can break when subject to just the right vibration.

I've had resistor leads break in a matter of weeks when not mounted firmly to the PC board. Engine vibration spans a wide range of frequencies and can induce resonant flexing in any part not held securely. Repetitive stress can snap leads just like multiple bends on a spoon.

It's good practice the check all components (like the resistors and inductor) to be sure they are as tight to the board as possible too. If they stick up at all they can act like little weights wiggling on a pole. If any components are sticking up, just reheat the joint and press the component down with your finger, you'll feel it 'click' down when the solder liquifies.

When building circuits for tame environments none of this is necessary, but on the bike it's a must.

 

[kodde]

Nice video!


OK, I thought those were the regulator caps (though far away). The high frequency noise filter caps (the 0.1uF) should be ceramic, not electrolytic as in the photo. Electrolytics are too slow. What value are they? Electorlytics usually aren't small. If high capacitance is on the flasher input, they will take time to discharge and can affect the flasher ON/OFF time. Looks OK in the video though...

Thanks

They are 0.1uF as you suggested in your earlier sketch. Didn't know they had to be ceramic. If a small delay is the only issue then I will not change it.

Only the 10uF at the add-on regulator input is necessary, the 10uF and 0.1uF on the output can be eliminated since the input cap on the Mini's regulator will serve, and 0.1uF cap on the Mini's output will filter high frequency noise before it reaches the controller.

I already re-soldered and added both 10uF on input and 10uF + 0.1uF on output. Oh well.

Yes, 5 minute 2 part epoxy or any good gap filling glue will work. It's amazing how fast connections can break when subject to just the right vibration.

I've had resistor leads break in a matter of weeks when not mounted firmly to the PC board. Engine vibration spans a wide range of frequencies and can induce resonant flexing in any part not held securely. Repetitive stress can snap leads just like multiple bends on a spoon.

It's good practice the check all components (like the resistors and inductor) to be sure they are as tight to the board as possible too. If they stick up at all they can act like little weights wiggling on a pole. If any components are sticking up, just reheat the joint and press the component down with your finger, you'll feel it 'click' down when the solder liquifies.

When building circuits for tame environments none of this is necessary, but on the bike it's a must.

Ok. I'll try to cover this. Won't glue until everything is working as it should though. Most components are already firmly pressed or at least very close to the protoboard.

Right now I'm just trying to work out a kink in the programming.

 

[kodde]

Solved the mentioned kink.

I wanted a "buffer" time for how long communication contact could be lost before the LEDs would go low. I.e. if for whatever reason (failure on the transmitter) the receiver would stop getting transmissions. If this buffer value is too small the lights tend to blink. If it's too big I could possibly get sluggish/sticky LEDs if I for some reason have poor communication signal. It's at 500ms now, seems to work fine.

 

[kodde]

I'm winning like Charlie Sheen!

Now to test ride it for a week or so to see that it still functions as it should without hiccups. After that I'll be going over the bike installment to fixate the parts better with glue and what not.

It will be fun to see other peoples reactions in traffic

 

[TeeRiver]

Nice!

 

[amaff]

Ok, that's awesome

 

[kodde]

Thanks guys

 

[kodde]

Here's a flickr set for some photos of my project. I'll be adding photos of the motorcycle installment later.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kodde/sets/72157628634527535/

 

[slim068]

That is bad @$$ bro!!!

 

[Biyatekeela]

This is way too cool. Awesome!!

 

[kodde]

Thanks guys,

Here's a video from earlier today.

I was out riding for around 3 hours or so today. Kind of hard to know if it's working or not since I cannot tell by myself when riding. Although the few times I stopped to park the bike I checked the functionality and not a single hiccup yet, so I am assuming it is working traffic as well.

 

[illbot]

That is such a great idea.
Nice work.

 

[Rock Dodger]

That's cool. I want one for the brake light on my helmet. Maybe a pulsating one.

 

[kodde]

Thanks!

Well... unless someone starts commercializing of this and optimizing size wise it could be tricky.

You could definitely optimize size wise on my receiver part (the backpack installment), but still. You have to first figure out how to attach some form of lighting, say LEDs or maybe an EL panel. Then some form of microprocessor, radio receiver and a battery. They don't necessarily have to be placed next to each other, but there's hardly any room at all to being with on a helmet. Unless you intend to build this device mainly on the outside of the helmet. You could place most of the parts needed elsewhere and use a wire, but that's definitely less sexy imo.

 

[junior]

some prior patent
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/D581600.pdf

 

[kodde]

Oh noes, there goes our millions of $$$ ^^

 

[kodde]

Well I dismounted the bike installment today to do a small update on the software to handle hazard lights (both blinkers at once). I took the opportunity to apply epoxy glue to the components as TeeRiver suggested and I took some macro photos as well.

The new shots can be found in the Flickr set:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kodde/sets/72157628634527535/

 

[AJB]

The videos are marked as private now?

 

[LSCYCLING]

that patent looks like it's for a helmet not a backback. So there may still be an opportunity thereand if you adjust it to bicycle messenger bags then maybe you could get the bicycle market also. Just saying and I get a cut if you do it with bike messenger bags!!