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So, Eric (imnot12) and I decided to get some winter work done last weekend. We both had SS lines and Sonic Springs on the install agenda. I had an additional Holeshot highmount to install as well as doing the TPS, and he had to basically strip down his entire bike to repair some damage from his track mishap.

The Holeshot highmount was done in a jiffy. Sawizall made short work of the stock exhaust pipe and it was easy sailing from then on out. I love the look and I definitely love the sound. I can finally participate in group rides and be able to rev at all the fly ladies without feeling inferior penis envy. Nate, remember saying something along the lines of "You're going to have to do something about that [exhaust]" in the Catskills? Well,
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Spring install was very straightforward and simple. To get the bikes off the front wheels, we put them on their respective rear stands, and then used jackstands on Nate's motosliders. The jackstands weren't high enough so we had to put some cinderblocks underneath for the height. Stable enough for installs, but I wouldn't suggest jumping on top of the bike when it's on there.

We followed the excellent set of directions from Sonic Springs and had no mishaps with the springs. For those who do their own work, you're all well aware of the fact that something unexpected WILL happen. If something doesn't come up, well then you're just not doing it correctly. Our "snag" was that we couldn't find a tool/bolt/allen/hex/thing to get the front axle undone. Home Depot, Lowes, etc don't carry big enough hex allen keys. Autozone/Advance Auto Parts don't carry axle tools. Hell, even my local dealer didn't have the right axle tool. They had the one for the rear (which is a larger size), but they didn't have anything remotely resembling a 12mm front axle tool even though they said they did on the phone. Finally, we headed over to Sears and they had the right size (12mm) in stock.

It's very handy to have a breaker bar or some sort of leverage when wrenching. Most individuals prefer the 2 ft breaker bars you can find at a Sears/Home Depot type store. Personally, I need something with more balls. Enter the bigass, hollowed-out, heavy as f**k, "breaker bar". It's basically a 7 ft long bar that is hollowed out at the end large enough that I can fit most tool handles in without a problem. That thing breaks loctite with a vengeance. We used this monster to loosen the fork caps. After some cleaning, measuring and cutting, the forks were back on the bike. Eric has some photos of this stage as well as of the MONSTER, so I'll let him post them when he gets the chance.

Bleeding and removing the front brake lines were easy enough. As was taking off all of the plastics & tank. Refilling the brake lines is a B****. After trying the pumping method, and then the syringe deal, we got quite fed up. I finally gave up and tried the gravity bleed method, and by some miracle of god, it worked.

If you're looking to get Galfer SS lines, MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT DOUBLE BANJO BOLT. They (Galfer) have been shipping incorrect threaded bolts for a while now. Most buyers catch it before stripping their MC, but I wasn't as lucky.

I did my TPS the next day, and man, those bolts are a PITA to get to. It's a PITA in the first place to just find Security Torx bits. I almost gave up faith in Sears (the promised land of tools. f**k Home Depot, Lowes and everybody else. You need normal/weird/obscure/random tools? Sears has them) but I finally found them when looking for a drill bit.

Just earlier tonight I finished my undertail install. Eric was nice enough to give me his holeshot undertail in exchange for the wrenching help and use of garage space (that was unnecessary, but very appreciated). I ran into the issue of turn signals with a high mount. In MA, it's mandatory to have orange turn signals separate from your brake lights. There goes the integrated brake/turn signals. I thought of a couple other options, but right now this should do:



It's basically two mini blinkers attached to the undertail with a hole drilled for the wiring. As seen in the photo earlier, the right turn signal isn't terribly too visible, so I'm considering adding some LED's to the passenger pegs. That will be another winter project. For now, it will pass MA inspection and that's all I'm really worried about during the offseason.

The only thing that sucks about motorcycle modifications in the winter is that you can't go out and test them out. Back when I had the TT, I could normally just head out for a little while in the cold of January and see how the mods worked out. With a bike, that ain't happening. Too damn cold thankyouverymuch.
 

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get the integrated signal/brake anyway and keep the orange signals. that way you can pass inspection, but still have visability.

but if you're interested, i have a set of passenger pegs available. i was thinking about doing the same thing, but never got around to it. let me know if you're interested
 

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Greg (MA) said:
Nate, remember saying something along the lines of "You're going to have to do something about that [exhaust]" in the Catskills? Well,
Haha yes.

Glad ya got some quality mods now, although I must say most people do things the other way around, they mod the crap out of their bikes, then learn how to ride...you on the other hand can definately ride with up front on a straight up stock bike (besides the fairings).
 

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evilbologna said:
Haha yes.

Glad ya got some quality mods now, although I must say most people do things the other way around, they mod the crap out of their bikes, then learn how to ride...you on the other hand can definately ride with up front on a straight up stock bike (besides the fairings).
Order of operations, order of operations.
 
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