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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had an issue when I turned on my bike tonight that I'm not sure how to fix. I tried flipping the high beams on and when I did the light kind of sputtered for a second then completely shut off; however, when switching it back, the low beams work just fine. Also, when the low beams are engaged and I press in the "Pass" switch, the brights will engage just fine. Not sure what the next step to take is.
 

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Take a look at the light switch. Seems to make proper contact for the low beams, but not for the high beams. The passing switch uses the same fuse as the high beam circuit and the high beams seem to work via the passing switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should have said Im a bit of a novice when it comes to mechanical/electrical work on these machines. I went ahead and checked the fuse and it was perfectly fine. I went ahead and opened the switch housing like you suggested and didn't see anything amiss/unsoldered/obvious that I could see. I took a quick picture inside to see if you could point out anywhere specific to check or what the next step would be. Trying to avoid taking it in since it's not a huge deal that the brights dont flip on. The help is much appreciated!

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Okay, let's ignore the pink and orange wires going to the passing switch. That leaves the yellow, white and another orange going to the main Hi/Lo switch. The orange is power going to the switch, the white sends power to the low beam and the yellow sends power to the high beam. If you have a meter, you can look for power at the solder joint of the yellow wire when the high beam is selected. If there is power, then your problem is not in the switch but further along the wire to the bulb connector. You can verify power at the white wire solder joint when the switch is set to low beam. If there is power temporarily at the yellow wire and then none, the contact inside the switch is the issue most probably. You could remove the switch from the housing to see if the contacts are accessible. I don't know if this switch is serviceable or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you say remove the switch, would that simply involve unscrewing the white frame to access the contacts where the switch connects with the wires? I don't currently have a meter to check the voltage.
 

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Yes, to your question about removing the switch. I don't know if you will see anything or be able to access the contacts of the switch. The switch if it fails, might require a replacement, not repairable. I've never had to replace one, so I don't have the answer for that. You can buy an inexpensive multimeter at the Depot, autoparts store, etc. A good investment for under $20 or so.
 

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you said it was when starting you bike

it could be bad/sticky contacts in the starter switch. in the starter switch, there is also a switch to momentarily disable the headlights when the starter is running (not a relay as one might expect), sometimes the contacts get dirty and makes your headlights to strange things
 

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If you are intending to take the switch apart I suggest you do it in a zip lock bag or similar. Small parts and springs sometimes fly in multiple directions. If you have a 12v bulb you could make up a test light. Tho the meter, as previously suggested, is a very good idea. Good fortune, R3~
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Typically I run the hi beams during the day so I think the switch was probably in the hi position when I started the bike. Started fine then began sputtering. I'll be checking and cleaning the contacts on the light switch in the next day or two and checking the power. I'll post my results asap

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Went ahead and checked for power along the solder point at the high beams and verified that there is power at the switch so it must be further down like you said. Not sure what the next step would be knowing this.

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The passing switch and the high beam switch use common wiring to the fuse and then to the lamp socket according to the wiring diagram. Since the passing switch turns on the high beam, I would assume that the issue is between the solder joint on the dimmer switch and the splice with the passing switch to the yellow wire. I also assume that when you use the passing switch the high beam indicator on the gauge lights up, but doesn't light up when the dimmer is switched to high beam, or at least flickers then goes off when the high beam goes off.

You would need to, I believe, trace where the pink wire from the passing switch goes and connects up with the yellow from the dimmer switch. I don't know why the wire is pink, the wiring diagram shows it as yellow, but maybe in reality, Suzuki wanted to differentiate the two yellow wires. You might need to open up the wire harness to trace the wires from the switch. Or, back track from the lamp socket following the yellow wire.

I'm not sure that this would work, but you could check the continuity of the yellow wire on the dimmer switch to the lamp socket by setting your meter to ohms and touching the solder joint at the yellow wire on the dimmer switch with one of the probes and using the second probe to the contact for the yellow wire inside the lamp socket. The same should hold true for the pink wire on the passing switch and the yellow on the lamp socket. There should be continuity for both wires to the lamp socket. I would expect for you to find continuity from the pink to the socket since the passing switch works the high beam, but not for the dimmer high position since it doesn't work.

In conclusion, I think the issue or possible break in the wire is between the high beam fuse and the dimmer switch and possibly closer to where the passing and dimmer switch wiring merge. Instead of checking the continuity between the lamp socket and the switches, you could test between the high beam fuse and the switches. You want to pull the fuse before testing and test on the incoming side of the fuse, not on the side that goes to the lamp socket, if that makes sense. You can look at the wiring diagram for your year bike by looking at this link and scrolling down to the correct year to see the wiring circuits that I am talking about. http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120691
 

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If you can narrow down where the power is lost, you should be able to solve this issue. You might need to open up the harness shrink wrap to be able to trace the wires leaving the switches and where the pink and yellow should merge in a splice or connector. From that connector or splice, there should be a yellow wire continuing to the fuse holder to the high beam fuse. I know this may sound daunting, but electrical issues can be tedious to track down.
 

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Try to take the time to investigate on your own. Unless the shop can narrow this down quickly or knows where to look, you might see a large diagnostic labor charge. Electrical gremlins can be costly to trace.

Of course, the shop may know exactly what is wrong and I am all wet in my thinking. Wouldn't be the first time. Talking it over with a mechanic on the phone would at least be free to start.
 

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My high beams went out completely but the low beams still worked fine. The pass switch didn't turn on the high beams for me either. I just bought a new headlight at weaver auto parts for under 15 dollars. Hopefully this easy fix may work for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update: Well it looks like the problem does not lie within the wiring itself or any splice point. I say this because as I was beginning to mess with the bike, I flipped the switch to "Hi" and realized that the switch was turning the high beams on BUT once it was pressed past a certain point (into the full "hi" position where it clicks) the hi beams shut off. So, if I have the switch in a position in between the hi and low symbol, the hi beams work just fine, but once it is toggled past this position the lights cut out. This makes me think it could be a bad contact possibly or something else to do with the toggle switch. Knowing this should I go ahead and take apart the switch and clean the contacts or is there something else I should do?
 

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Sounds like something is worn in the switch or possibly some corrosion on part of the contact where the limit of the switch is. Since I don't know if the switch can be taken apart and serviced or not, you might as well try. If the switch doesn't seem to want to come apart easily, I would just investigate buying another switch. You can look up the part at Ronayers or cheapcycleparts and see if the switch is sold as a separate part from the left hand switch gear. You may be able to buy a complete used left hand switch gear assembly as well. Or, just use the switch as is since you now know how to make it work. It might eventually stop working all together, but maybe not. Good find.
 

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My high beams went out completely but the low beams still worked fine. The pass switch didn't turn on the high beams for me either. I just bought a new headlight at weaver auto parts for under 15 dollars. Hopefully this easy fix may work for you.
The op's pass switch does turn on the high beam. It's not his lamp as was the case for your issue.
 
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