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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Someone rolled my bike up the driveway a few weekends ago and tried to hotwire it a few houses down... Luckily it was left there in the morning with no other damage, but this weekend's project is to reconnect the harness. I've got some solder shrink connectors and have the wires stripped, but I found two identical red wires in the harness with the same gold lettering. On a search, I read that the two reds may be combined into a single wire before they connect to the ignition switch - can anyone confirm? If so, can I connect the two reds either way? Hoping so - I am not savvy with a multimeter and the rest of the wiring is deeper into the frame.

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Yes, the Red wires are identical and can be soldered either way.

The ignition wires carry full bike current, up to 30A so these connections must be well done.

What type of solder shrink connector are you using? It could be tough to get enough heat in there - it is a tight space - without overheating the surrounding area/wires.
 

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Doing a pull test on scrap wire is great. For a high current application like this, I prefer standard soldering with heat-shrink, but I think you will be ok. I've used the solder-shrinks on less critical things and they have worked well.

If you ever do a pull test with the cheap butt crimps found in autoparts stores (and it sounds like you have) you will never use them. Crimps are ok but must be high-quality and formed with exact fitting dies. It is easy to get them wrong.

Here is an example of a bad crimp posted a while ago. These are trash. I would not even use them to connect a blinker let alone the 30A ignition circuit.
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Doing a pull test on scrap wire is great. For a high current application like this, I prefer standard soldering with heat-shrink, but I think you will be ok. I've used the solder-shrinks on less critical things and they have worked well.

If you ever do a pull test with the cheap butt crimps found in autoparts stores (and it sounds like you have) you will never use them. Crimps are ok but must be high-quality and formed with exact fitting dies. It is easy to get them wrong.

Here is an example of a bad crimp posted a while ago. These are trash. I would not even use them to connect a blinker let alone the 30A ignition circuit.
View attachment 57298
Doesn't help to use a butt connector for 12-10ga wire on 20ga wire. 🤣

For high current 12V circuits I prefer to use the crimp butt splices with the heat shrink built on them. For wires that carry a signal, like ABS sensor wires or MAF sensor wires, I prefer to use the solder shrinks.

It is important to push the two wires together so that the strands mesh when using the solder shrinks. Early on I was not doing that and had failures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wanted to update that I've had good luck with the solder splices for the 6 months or so since the repair. Thanks all for the quick help last time around.

I have a new problem and since it might be related, I figured I'd post here to cut down on the clutter. Recently, I went out to start the bike and got nothing from the starter - no engagement whatsoever. Voltage was reading a bit low and the battery a few years old, so I figured I'd start with replacing that, but no change. Everything seems normal, all lights and indicators functioning as they should, but when I go to turn the bike over nothing is happening. The headlight cuts out (I think that was normal IIRC), but nothing else. Would this be a failed starter motor?

One potentially related issue is the headlight had occasionally been cutting out around corners since I got the bike two years ago (when turning the bars close to the stops, like coming out of a driveway). Maybe a corroded connection somewhere, if anyone could point me in the right direction for that repair maybe that's related somehow.
 

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Check the wiring as it goes into the frame between the forks. Theres a green connector in that area that tends to burn up too, especially if you have an S model with two headlight bulbs.
 
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