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Discussion Starter #1
Thus far:
-removed headlight, blinkers, gauge cluster, risers on triple clamp for Naken bars, remove battery, Radiator Fan, rearsets, clipons, chopped rear undertray/fender flush with rear bodywork (license cannot be attached, removed rear license plate light), removed left side passenger assembly, remove right side passenger peg, chopped bungee hooks and the rails that attach to Subframe, removed tool kit, Still have stock rear bodywork and both seats.

Weight reduction for the future:

install full Ti Hindle (removes rear pas
lightened/smaller rear tank mount brackets
remove ignition and replace with toggle switch

Any other cheap/free mods to lighten this puppy up? Can I chop the rear subframe but still use the stock rear bodywork? Will it support it?

Thanks,

Bryce
 

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removed battery? or using a smaller one?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, that's something to add to the list, I'll dig up the part #. How much do these batteries usually run? Thanks.


As for removing the battery completely, I'd need something to simulate a battery as a place holder and then bumpstart the bike wach session, correct? Would this be possible?
 

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im guessing he was joking, as in.. drilling holes in the forks lol :D
 

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if you put a dual brake line setup on the front, you can unbolt the hefty splitter that's bolted under there...
 

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How about replace ignition lock with a switch (no idea how to do this), gas tank lock with a light aftermarket one, you could probably cut off some of the wiring that's not used, remove kickstand.

Anyone know how to wire a simple switch instead of the heavy ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was taking the high road on the cross drilled forks. ;)

Anyway...side stay is a good idea. I plan on taking that off at the track and putting it back on when home for ease of transport and storage. The ignition switch mod was in the original list. Messing with the gas cap is idea, do they make lighter ones? Shortening the wiring will be in order over the winter for sure, another good idea.

As for the dual brake like setup...when u go to steel braided lines, aren't most of them running a seperate line to each caliper? If the steel braided is on par with the weight of the stock lines and then lose the splitter that's another good idea.

thx.
 

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I hope I don't offend but.....

How about you? As in are you as light as you can get? As a cyclist (recreational racer) it doesn't mater if my bike weighs 15lbs if I was carrying an extra 30 around. The laws of physics don't change so the same could be said for a motorcyclist.

How about brake/clutch levers? Did you remove the horn? Assumption is yes but I didn't see that on the list. Do you need the chain guard for the track? New rear sprocket? ($$)
 

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Bster13 said:
Thus far:
-removed headlight, blinkers, gauge cluster, risers on triple clamp for Naken bars, remove battery, Radiator Fan, rearsets, clipons, chopped rear undertray/fender flush with rear bodywork (license cannot be attached, removed rear license plate light), removed left side passenger assembly, remove right side passenger peg, chopped bungee hooks and the rails that attach to Subframe, removed tool kit, Still have stock rear bodywork and both seats.

Weight reduction for the future:

install full Ti Hindle (removes rear pas
lightened/smaller rear tank mount brackets
remove ignition and replace with toggle switch

Any other cheap/free mods to lighten this puppy up?  Can I chop the rear subframe but still use the stock rear bodywork?  Will it support it?

Thanks,

Bryce
Helium in the tires?
Ultra lightweight Gas?
Magnesium frame sliders?
Ti foot pegs?

That'll help! :)
 

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Bster13 said:
IMessing with the gas cap is idea, do they make lighter ones? 
Yeah, much lighter without the heavy steel ignition mechanism. Vortex, I had a Marchesini aluminum one before as well. I think LP may make one.

BTW, has anyone used the Sharkskinz aluminum subframe? Does all the stock stuff still mount up (exhaust, battery, rectifier, seat, etc.) or do you have to fabricate your own way of mounting that stuff up?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
yes good catch, the horn was removed.


Leave it to Clayton after I spend $ on an exhaust with him that he makes fun of my poor SV. :( :p

S'ok, it'll feel better this wknd when I eat  some liter bikes.

I weigh what i weighed in College playing soccer and rugby, 185 lbs.  Not much else to lose, but I have some laxatives in the bathroom...hrmm. :p
 
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Abe Froman said:
I hope I don't offend but.....

How about you?  As in are you as light as you can get?  As a cyclist (recreational racer) it doesn't mater if my bike weighs 15lbs if I was carrying an extra 30 around.  The laws of physics don't change so the same could be said for a motorcyclist.
How about linked brakes and get rid of that right leg??? ;D
 

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You could cut the rear subframe into nothing more than a front seat with a brake light under your butt. Might look like an old cafe racer from the 1950s on crack. Remove the turn signal and horn module on the handlebar and remove all wiring and electronics like the starter relay if you plan on jump starting it every time. Hell, you could remove and block off the starter with a plate and pop start it every time. Take off your tire valve caps for significant reduction in rotating mass too. ;D
 
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