Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
After changing my bulbs a few times (switching back and forth between LEDs and halogen) the previously hard to remove headlight connector is now very easy to remove and has a loose contact. When riding, my bulb now turns off sometimes and I have to hit the front of the glass to make it turn on again. Quite entertaining when you're on the highway at night.

Does anybody know how to fix this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,074 Posts
If you can get the terminals out of the connector you can just squeeze them shut a bit to restore their grip.

I don't know exactly the steps but if you look at the back of the connector housing where the wires go into it, look inside each hole and you should see a little tab blocking you from just pulling out the terminal. Get a small screwdriver or paper clip and pry the tab clear of the terminal to remove it.

I recommend only removing and repairing one terminal at a time so you don't wind up confused where they go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Usually you just need a tiny flathead to get the connector out, then squeeze it a little like they said. BEFORE you put it back, connect it to headlight to verify it's tight enough. Then put it back

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,361 Posts
I am guessing the connector tangs on the LED vs the Halogen bulbs are different thickness forcing the harness plug sockets to widen.

That would explain why the plug was hard to remove then easy to remove and also explain how the plug got loose plug in the first place. A loose headlight plug is not a common problem on the SV.

If the above is true then need to stick with one bulb type or the other to prevent the problem form happening again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I am guessing the connector tangs on the LED vs the Halogen bulbs are different thickness forcing the harness plug sockets to widen.
Your hunch is correct. I was trying to tighten the connector plates yesterday and noticed that the prongs of the LED light where much thinner than the ones of the halogen bulb.

I didn't have much success in tightening the connectors a lot. Just enough so the halogen bulb now works without interruption.

The LED light is still very loose. It has a pretty shoddy light beam as well, so I don't think I'll use it anyways (another $23 wasted).
I used to have an ADV Monster H4 R3 LED which was phantastic ($50) but it got stolen and is out of stock now. I may eventually go for this solution, a full LED housing:
Adam Lengyel's SV
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yeah, I believe that. However, I just scored a used LED headlight assembly from Mad8vskillz site for $60 and will see how it works out. It comes with integrated indicators and daytime running lights as well, so I'll be running a wire from my switched power distribution block in the rear to the front (the US versions of the naked SVs are the only ones without a DRL cable in the headlight housing). Will get a proper crimper for bullet connectors and re-do my amateurish job I did with better connectors, heat shrink and distribution block with an integrated relay.

Oh, and I was able to remove the flag terminals from the headlight connector by pushing the little tabs in using a mini screwdriver for phone repairs. Came out easily with the exception of the low beam terminal. It's looks like it has melted the plastic casing a bit and is stuck to it now. I assume since it is a bit loose, the gap causes more resistance which then heats it up quite a bit during operation. Glad to have caught it before it melted completely. I will get a new adapter and new straight terminals, since I'll have that new crimper tool soon.
For now I have tightened the other two terminals and the LED bulb fits tight again.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top