Thank you for the folks contributing to this thread, I just ordered the hall effect sensor and magnets for my 07gsxr600 front end I am swapping onto my 2006 sv650s.

 

Hey SVRiders!!

It's been a while, and I did say that I'd come back and post when I got things running.

I did the front end swap and I kept my stock gauges and put on a GSXR 600 front end. (year isn't important.)
I did this to keep it looking somewhat stock and to keep from having to buy a new speedo.
I will eventually upgrade, but it wasn't in the cards when I did the mod.

The sensor I used was from a KTM 610 that I found for sale on eBay.
The sensor was pretty low profile and sealed from water and grime.
I have no idea if other sensors from KTM would work, I just know that this one did and I only know that because I tried it and it worked.
(I mostly based this off of the fact that it had the same number of wires. Trial and error works sometimes!!)

This is a link to the first video where I show the connection and it working.

Here is a link to the second video where you see the bracket holding the sensor.

I've found it's relitivly accurate, but I haven't tested it against another vehicle and I have not tested with a GPS.
I'm just basing this on flow of traffic and my Butt Dyno.

I don't have a photobucket account so I can't post pics here.
If you want a link to my build on another site, just PM me.
(might take a while for me to respond as I don't drop in here as often as I'd like to.)

Thanks for looking, and to this site for providing the info that made the swap possible.




Sympul

 

Yaozer, that's odd. The '07 SV speedo expects to see 8 pulses per wheel rev. 4 magnets, even if they are all working should read 50% low, not high.

I don't know what's going on with your setup, but you can monitor the Hall sensor by clipping the black lead of a voltmeter to battery (-), then the red voltmeter lead to the Pink wire going to the SV gauge. As you spin the front wheel, you should see the voltage drop down close to zero each time a magnet passes the pickup.

Edit: Maybe you mean 10+ MPH low? If you see 10MPH when expecting to 20MPH, then it makes sense. You will either need to use 8 magnets, or a speedohealer.

 

Edit: Maybe you mean 10+ MPH low? If you see 10MPH when expecting to 20MPH, then it makes sense. You will either need to use 8 magnets, or a speedohealer.

Yes, it is 10mph lower. If I add four more magnets, they will not be equally spaced apart bc there are only 12 rotor holes.

Just not sure why this is coming up.

 

Half the magnets will report 50% low. 10mph instead of 20mph; 30mph instead of 60mph, etc...

If that's what you're seeing then you just need to decide if you want to fit 8 somehow, or use a speedohealer. If the speedo is not 50% low across the range then there is something wrong with sensor setup.

drinkbrew had good success making 8 magnets fit an odd spoke rotor this thread. See post# 38.

 

I have a 2003 SV650S with a 2003 GSXR front end. I'm assuming I need the Cherry Hall Effect Sensor, 4 magents, and then just build myself a bracket to mount the sensor. Then space the magents evenly apart so they pass through the magnetic field of the sensor. Would I need a speedo healer or is there a way around that? And would I need 8 magents or not? Thanks for all the help guys!

 

You need 4 magnets and a speedo healer is not required.

Check out my 02 GSXR Conversion link below to see how I mounted my magnets and sensor.

 

You can also use rotor bolts that have a magnet embedded in them. More secure mounting and you don't have to worry about it falling out or whatever. Trailtech makes them. Only thing is if you have 5 rotor bolts (like me) then you NEED a speedohealer. It doesn't matter as I was going to get the 12'o clock labs one anyway which is fairly inexpensive.

 

So I know I shouldn't have to use a speedo healer for my 03 but when you mentioned the 5 spoke thing I took a picture of my wheel and would like to know if I still don't need one. Thanks!

P.S. - I'm kind of new to this stuff.

 

That looks like an 04-05 front wheel ? Use 4 magnets in every other rotor rivet and you will not need a speedo healer.

 

I have one thing left to do to finish off my winter project and get my bike back on the road...and it's this.

Did everything by the book (AFAIK), but my speedometer still reads zero when I give the wheel a good spin. Any suggestions on where I went wrong or what to check? Is there any way to even check that the sensor works? (I know very little about electrical, but I've already read the threads on here related to do this mod.)

I've done this with the bracket I've mocked up in the photos below (ignore the strangely placed lock washers). I've also done this holding the sensor as close to the magnets as possible. The magnets are oriented so that they are pulled toward the sensor, and you can definitely feel the magnets pass by.

Any advice would be appreciated. I'm dying to get my bike roadworthy again.

Aaaand, pictures:

Wired up per instructions.. (black-pink, blue-black/white, brown-orange/red)

8 magnets evenly spaced in rotor buttons..

Bracket..

 

I have one thing left to do to finish off my winter project and get my bike back on the road...and it's this.

Did everything by the book (AFAIK), but my speedometer still reads zero when I give the wheel a good spin. Any suggestions on where I went wrong or what to check? Is there any way to even check that the sensor works? (I know very little about electrical. I know how to do some basic soldering, which is all I did here. As far as troubleshooting...I'm worthless )

I've done this with the bracket I've mocked up in the photos below (ignore the strangely placed lock washers). I've also done this holding the sensor as close to the magnets as possible. The magnets are oriented so that they are pulled toward the sensor, and you can definitely feel the magnets pass by.

Have you got the magnets facing the right way ? They should be oriented so they're attracted to the sensor.

 

Maybe you're just not spinning it fast enough.

 

I thought of this too. But, with a hard spin up on front/rear stands, that should be enough right?

Two easy tests:
1. There should be ~12v from orange/red to back/white.
2. Voltage on Pink should drop from 5v down to 0v when the hall sensor triggers. If voltage on Pink does not change, try holding the magnet closer to the sensor or reverse magnet polarity. There are many styles of hall sensors, some trigger on North, some South, some both (bipolar), and some can trigger off bolts/gears.

Thanks for the tips. Just ordered a multimeter. This is a good excuse to finally pick one up!

 

Let me know what you find out. I just ordered this exact same sensor tonight, I'd like to avoid whatever problem it is you are having.

 

I've got my sensor and my magents and cups are on their way to me. I was looking at the harness coming out of the speedo and I see 2 Black/White wires. Which one do I use for the sensor. Here's a picture of what I see with labels for the Pink wire and the Orange/Red wire that I know I'm using. But the 2 black/white wires on teh right side I'm not sure about. This might be a stupid questions but I just want to make sure I do everything exactly right. Thanks!

 

Either B/W will work, Riffer. Outside the gauge, both B/W wires connect together so there is little difference.

Inside the gauge though, there are two separate ground planes. The B/W in the same row with the P/W is used to ground the gauge computer, the other ground is for the illumination LEDs and idiot lights. Separate ground planes are employed to isolate electrical noise from the sensitive electronics so using the illumination B/W (not the computer circuit) is a slightly better choice, but again, either will work.

 

Has anyone tried using this sensor just trying to read the rotor bolts? I feel like that could work if you located it at just the right distance...

 

On my bike that is all i did No magnets just the hall sensor and the rotor bolts.

 

I am referring to rotor BOLTS not the holes where people usually put the magnets, just as you described brew. I don't care if I have to use a speedohealer. just wondering if it works at all. I'll give it a try anyway but was just curious if it works in case i have problems. looks like sidepipe had luck

 

Thanks for the input, fellas.
Took the bike down the block, and it still wasn't reading.

I didn't want to wait for my multimeter to show up, so I just took my time and rewired it to make sure it was done properly. Also used some longer bolts to close the gap between the sensor and the magnets.

Presto! My speedo works. It was either the wiring or spacing; didn't change the number of magnets or their polarity.

I know the info is out there, but this is what worked for me:
- 8 magnets, evenly spaced in rotor buttons (with the magnets attracted to the sensor)
- for mounting: 2 M6.0 x 30 mm bolts; a few M6 nuts for spacers; 1 piece of lexan plastic for bracket

*EDIT* I've since changed the configuration of the nuts. The locknut is now behind the bracket, and it's all locktited.

 

Going to try to move my sensor closer to the magnet this weekend. Did you test it with a GPS for accuracy? Thanks.

 

So I'm almost ready to wire in the sensor to the gauge cluster. I was going to splice the sensor wires right into the wirea in the back of the gauge cluster where they clip onto the cluster. I was going to just strip the wire coating until I see bare wires, then put the sensor wires in and maybe use some solder or really good electrical tape. Would that be fine or is there a easier/safer/better way to wire the sensor into the circuit?

Thanks again guys!

 

Electrically that will work, but it is best not to hack the main harness. A better approach would be to use the wire and plug from the old sensor. If you ever want to remove the new sensor, you will be able to unplug it just like stock.

For reliability (and to not appear an electrical squid, ;D), use solder and heat-shrink tubing, never twist and tape...

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Can someone post a picture of their wiring and exactly where they got the pink, orange/red, and black/white wires from. Some people have wired it to the stock speedo clip but I can not find mine. I see the pink, orange/red, and black/white wires coming out of the main harness to the back of the gauge cluster but then they just run with all the other wires through the forks and through the frame into the engine area it looks like. Am I missing something or and I just that dumb that it's staring me right in the face and I can't see it?

EDIT: Found what I was looking for. It was under the air box underneath the tank. Now I just neet to find the female end somewhere and wire the hall effect sensor into it and clip in into the stock male clip.

 

You're tracking these wires toward the rear of your bike? These wires should run straight out of the gauge cluster and down your fork tube (encased in a larger diameter black tubing). At the end is your stock speedo sensor. Just cut the stock sensor off, split a wire a few inches, and voila - you have your three needed wires. Strip em, solder in the new sensor, and heat shrink it.

 

Here's mine; it's actually pretty similar to Marduk's set up, but I used aluminum stock for the bracket. Then I used longer bolts (1.5") and threaded them through the back side of the fender mounts on the fork. The fender fits over the longer bolts and I just used two stainless steel nuts (loctite on everything) to secure the fender to the fork.



DSC00080 by YaozersStuff, on Flickr

 

Yaozer, are your magnets secured at all or just held in by magnetism? The look quite large - I measure the stock rotor rivets on my 300mm rotors to be 10mm wide by 8mm deep. Yours look to be as wide as the rivet and protrude. Spacer behind?

 

Magnets are much cheaper then $70 and it's really not that hard to make it work right.

The only time I ever had "jumpy" reading was when I was missing a magnet, but other then that time it works just as good as stock. If anything you will have more jumpy readings with a single magnet and a healer.

 

Mine was jumpy when the sensor was too close. I suspect it was getting messed up by the empty rivets.

 

Could you do as others have done and epoxy 8 evenly-spaced magnets?

 

Most likely. I will play with it on Sunday and report back. I also have a friend's speedo healer with which I can experiment this weekend. I may try the 4-6 magnets with the speedo healer. I tried it with 1 magnet and didn't like the way it read.

 

Just finished hooking everything up and took it for a spin around the block. It was reading 80 when I was only going like 15 at the most. I'm using 4 magnets with the sensor most people are using and I wired it up with the corresponding colors. What could be causing this? Should I use 8 magnets instead of 4?

 

That's bizarre, I'd expect that if you actually needed 8 magnets, but were using only 4, then you'd be reading half speed as the wheel would need to rotate twice to get the 8 pulses.

however, if you need only 4 magnets, have the sensor too close and it's getting extra pulses from empty rivets or any other ferrous material crossing it's path, maybe it would read double or more.

What year bike do you have, what front wheel do you have, and what is the spacing between the rotor rivets and the sensor ?

Can you post a pic ?

 

Are the magnets mounted in the rotor rivets ?

A picture of the actual sensor and magnet setup would be useful.

 

Here is my bracket and sensor setup. I know it's not the best bracket or placement but for now it's what I got. I have the magnets in the cups which are then palced inside the rotor holes. Does anyone know why my speedo would be reading way higher then the actual speed im going?

 

You know, that bracket is really long and will be vibrating and wobbling. That's probably the issue.
Put the sensor in a similar position to the pic below and use a 5mm space to the magnets.

 

^ That's what I was thinking. I thought it might be wobbling and giving me weird readings. I'll have to rethink my mounting/bracket tomorrow.

 

Hi Riffer, did you get it working correctly ?