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i realized that this thread is pretty old but I'm going thru the conversion right now.
I have the bracket pretty much setup exactly as shown on some of the pix and wired up.
The only issue I'm facing is trying to mount the magnets/cups.
I'm using SV1000 front wheel so the rivet holes are larger than my small magnet and cups and the large one too big (maybe by 1mm).

I'm wondering if I should just glue the cup directly on the rotor surface evenly spaced out or if there would be an adverse effects in doing so. I'd rather glue than drill to be honest but wanted to check to get some input before gluing away.
 
i realized that this thread is pretty old but I'm going thru the conversion right now.
I have the bracket pretty much setup exactly as shown on some of the pix and wired up.
The only issue I'm facing is trying to mount the magnets/cups.
I'm using SV1000 front wheel so the rivet holes are larger than my small magnet and cups and the large one too big (maybe by 1mm).

I'm wondering if I should just glue the cup directly on the rotor surface evenly spaced out or if there would be an adverse effects in doing so. I'd rather glue than drill to be honest but wanted to check to get some input before gluing away.
I used gorilla glue and it filled up the space between the cup and rivet
 
When I put a meter to the sensor I used, the voltage increases. Could this just be a N.O. sensor when I need a N.C.?

This is what i used, mainly because I was being cheap.... http://www.dx.com/p/hall-magnetic-sensor-switch-module-for-smart-car-141363#.VCIerPldVbI

Yaozer, that's odd. The '07 SV speedo expects to see 8 pulses per wheel rev. 4 magnets, even if they are all working should read 50% low, not high.

I don't know what's going on with your setup, but you can monitor the Hall sensor by clipping the black lead of a voltmeter to battery (-), then the red voltmeter lead to the Pink wire going to the SV gauge. As you spin the front wheel, you should see the voltage drop down close to zero each time a magnet passes the pickup.

Edit: Maybe you mean 10+ MPH low? If you see 10MPH when expecting to 20MPH, then it makes sense. You will either need to use 8 magnets, or a speedohealer.
 
When I put a meter to the sensor I used, the voltage increases. Could this just be a N.O. sensor when I need a N.C.?

This is what i used, mainly because I was being cheap.... http://www.dx.com/p/hall-magnetic-sensor-switch-module-for-smart-car-141363#.VCIerPldVbI

Voltage ??

You need to set the meter to resistance (the horseshoe like symbol). Then:
Of the number goes to zero (or lower) when a magnet is facing your sensor, it's normally open.
If the number goes larger with the magnet, it's normally closed.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
Yes, voltage....I was just going off what the post I quoted said....
No magnet=5.95
Magnet=8.1

Without the bike running anyway...

I don't get anything when set to ohms.....it just stays as a open circuit...the light on the sensor does trigger though.

EDIT: Helps to turn the bike on...doh....Yes it goes from Open to .67ish Ω

So I guess the question is do I need a N.C sensor then?

Voltage ??

You need to set the meter to resistance (the horseshoe like symbol). Then:
Of the number goes to zero (or lower) when a magnet is facing your sensor, it's normally open.
If the number goes larger with the magnet, it's normally closed.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
Ok so I ordered the Cherry sensor from Jameco and all is well now, so like I was asking, I believe I had a N.O. sensor when I needed a N.C. one.

With the Jameco Cherry sensor

No Magnet= 5.71V DC
Magnet= 0.41V DC

Voltage ??

You need to set the meter to resistance (the horseshoe like symbol). Then:
Of the number goes to zero (or lower) when a magnet is facing your sensor, it's normally open.
If the number goes larger with the magnet, it's normally closed.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Yes, voltage....I was just going off what the post I quoted said....
No magnet=5.95
Magnet=8.1

Without the bike running anyway...

I don't get anything when set to ohms.....it just stays as a open circuit...the light on the sensor does trigger though.

EDIT: Helps to turn the bike on...doh....Yes it goes from Open to .67ish Ω

So I guess the question is do I need a N.C sensor then?
Yaozer, that's odd. The '07 SV speedo expects to see 8 pulses per wheel rev. 4 magnets, even if they are all working should read 50% low, not high.

I don't know what's going on with your setup, but you can monitor the Hall sensor by clipping the black lead of a voltmeter to battery (-), then the red voltmeter lead to the Pink wire going to the SV gauge. As you spin the front wheel, you should see the voltage drop down close to zero each time a magnet passes the pickup.

Edit: Maybe you mean 10+ MPH low? If you see 10MPH when expecting to 20MPH, then it makes sense. You will either need to use 8 magnets, or a speedohealer.
 
Hey Guys I have gone through this thread multiple time and a few others and cant seem to figure why my speedo is reading out double the speed. GPS says 30mph and my speedo say 60mph.

The bike is a 06 SV650 with a 04 GSXR front end swap. The wiring is just as its been stated here with the Cherrie sensor and 8 magnets.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Hey Guys I have gone through this thread multiple time and a few others and cant seem to figure why my speedo is reading out double the speed. GPS says 30mph and my speedo say 60mph.

The bike is a 06 SV650 with a 04 GSXR front end swap. The wiring is just as its been stated here with the Cherrie sensor and 8 magnets.

Any help would be much appreciated.
The logical thing to do would be to remove four of the magnets and try again.
 
I had a similar problem. I have an '03 SV650 with an '02 GSXR front end. I bought it with the speedo/odo reading double with the stock rotors w/ 4 magnets.

I changed out the rotors to a 6 button design. I taped a single magnet between a spoke and it registered what appeared to be a 1/4 of the speed when moving. I taped another magnet on an opposing spoke and it registers correctly now. I'm assuming 4 magnets would double the speed again but realistically it's working well now.

Anybody know of why this may be?
 
So I have tried a lot of different set ups and still not reading the right speed. I even went down to one magnet and it still reads high.
What about if you take all the magnets off?

The cherry sensor has a magnet built into it and was originally designed to trigger off of metal of gear teeth, not magnets in rotors. I am guessing it is probably triggering off of the metal of the carrier (if it is steel) or the webs of the braking surface that meet the rotor.

I don't use any magnets at all.
 
So I have tried a lot of different set ups and still not reading the right speed. I even went down to one magnet and it still reads high.

This is the sensor I got.

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...1&langId=-1&productId=512401&storeId=10001&ddkey=http:StoreCatalogDrillDownView

Anyone have any other ideas what the issue might be?
You're too close to the rotor. When I first did my swap, the speedo would show 8+mph just walking the bike. I bent my sensor mounting bracket back a bit from the rotor and it reads fine now.
 
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