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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 00' SV 650s and my tach, odo, and speedo are working intermittently. The neutral light, blinkers and highbeam indicators work and the bike runs without any other issues. I found the grey or white wire four pins to the right on the bottom row is reading 6v when the odo speedo and tach are working but drops to 3v when they arent. It sometimes begins to work if i rev it and release the throttle and fails when i rev it. Im unsure of where i should be looking or what the issue is im thinking something is shorting or loose, but am new to the bike community as a whole
 

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If you are talking about the Gray wire pin#9 in the image below, that should never be less than 12v. 3v or 6v is a problem. The Gray wire is for illumination only, it will not affect the speedo/odo or tach but since it is a clear failure and easy to trace, it would be a good place to start.
51964




Here is a snip of the gauge wiring on your bike. Notice that the Gray wire goes back to the harness then loops back at the R.H. handlebar connector to get 12v from Orange/Green. Try follow that path. Also what voltage do you see on Orange/Green at the gauge plug? Good luck.
51965
 

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Discussion Starter #3
12.23v for the 0/G
And i believe its number 14 for the grey one
8 is showing .19v
9 is 11.8v
14 is now showing 0v
1 is 12.8v
4 is 10
2 is 11.7
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for responding by the way the last comment I was going through the bike while I was typing those diagrams are definitely going to be useful. Could this be caused by a faulty speed sensor the day i started having issues was also the day i got my tires changed. Maybe its just a coincidence though id prefer to be able to fix it myself
 

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... Could this be caused by a faulty speed sensor the day i started having issues was also the day i got my tires changed.
Yes. A broken speed sensor rotor is the most likely reason for the failing speedo/odo. The rotor is brittle and if not lined up properly can easily be broken during front wheel remove/install.

The good thing is the rotor is cheap (about $20, you do not need the entire sensor, just the magnetic rotor) and easy to replace. There are two different speed sensor rotors for the SV650 be careful to get the correct one as they look identical. Your gen1 SV650 needs part number: 34983-21E00.

1999 - 2004 rotors have 4 magnets, PN: 34983-21E00
2005+ rotors have 8 magnets, PN: 34983-27G00

I am not sure why your tach is not working but try fix the speedo first then post again if still having problems.

If the speed sensor rotor is broken be sure to thourghly clean all broken bits from the sensor area, apply light bearing grease, make sure the 4 tabs are properly aligned when mounting sensor back to the wheel.

Here is what a broken speed sensor rotor looks like. Not all will be so destroyed.
51968
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im stumped i dont think its the speed sensor, i think its shorting to the two grounds that are getting voltage somewhere. When the speedo comes on the speed reads out fine.
 

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When the speedo comes on the speed reads out fine.
When you say the speedo "comes on" do you mean the gauge lights up?

Do the speedo and tach both fail at the same time or does the tach sometimes work but speedo no?

If both speedo and tach work/fail at the same time I would suspect either an intermittent power or intermittent ground connection.

The SV speed sensor wires are current limit protected from short circuit so there is no way a speed sensor problem can cause the tach to fail. The speed sensor power wire can be connect directly to ground with no ill affect.

Any other failure info you can give will help isolate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And when i say comes on i mean the needle goes up to what rpm the engine is revved to and if im at speed the speedo will read my speed, but the backlighting works fine reguardless. But if it is working it always cuts out if i rev the bike up. Once at idle so.etimes it works sometimes it doesn't and sometimes it jumps up and back down when revving the engine
 

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That information helps a lot.
- common tach and speeod failure means the units themselves are okay, the problem is upstream, most likely a flaky power or ground connection. That is good news as a broken tach or speedo could be hard to fix, a flaky connection much easier.

- failure at rpm confirms the flaky connection conclusion and means the problem is vibration dependent.

- the backlight always on would in theory confirm the ground is okay but unfortunately there are two ground wires so we can not use that tidbit to rule out the ground. Pin8 ground is for illumination so must be okay. Pin16 grounds the speedo and tach, that connection is still suspect.

There are three connectors in the power/ground path to the gauge, see the wiring diagram above.
1. R.H. handlebar connector.
2. Front harness connector.
3. Gauge connector itself.

The easiest connector to get to is the R.H. handlebar connector. I would test there first. Check for 12v on O/G and also on Gray. Of course the gauge must be in failure mode (no odo display in the LCD) when doing these tests.

Good luck, let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That information helps a lot.
- common tach and speeod failure means the units themselves are okay, the problem is upstream, most likely a flaky power or ground connection. That is good news as a broken tach or speedo could be hard to fix, a flaky connection much easier.

- failure at rpm confirms the flaky connection conclusion and means the problem is vibration dependent.

- the backlight always on would in theory confirm the ground is okay but unfortunately there are two ground wires so we can not use that tidbit to rule out the ground. Pin8 ground is for illumination so must be okay. Pin16 grounds the speedo and tach, that connection is still suspect.

There are three connectors in the power/ground path to the gauge, see the wiring diagram above.
1. R.H. handlebar connector.
2. Front harness connector.
3. Gauge connector itself.

The easiest connector to get to is the R.H. handlebar connector. I would test there first. Check for 12v on O/G and also on Gray. Of course the gauge must be in failure mode (no odo display in the LCD) when doing these tests.

Good luck, let us know what you find.
Is that connector connected by a u wire that connects the grey to the orange/green?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay so I found that when i disconnect the plug from the tach and reconnect it it restores power to everything so im assuming it is making a poor connection at the cluster, but how can i fix that? It still drops to 0 if i rev it but o can keep restoring the power by unplugging it/ wiggling it
 

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... but I can keep restoring the power by unplugging it/ wiggling it
Excellent, you are close!

Keep in mind the gauge connector and harness connectors are on the same wires so wiggling one might move the other.

It is good to test voltage at the suspected connections (six) to find exactly where the problem is. Also it is satisfying when chasing a problem like this to find 12v on one side of the connector and 0v on the other. :)

Here is a diagram of where to test. (Aside: Man, since SVR migrated to the new platform, image posting is super clear and drag and drop makes it so easy to add image content. Very nice!)
52065


To test, clip the voltmeter Black probe to Battery(-). Use the voltmeter Red probe to back probe the connectors to make contact. For the O/G and R wires you will be looking for 12v. For B/W wires expect to see 0v. Again, testing must be done with the odo LCD failing.

Once you find the faulty pin/socket do a close visual inspection to see what is wrong. Bright light and magnification will help.

If the connection is corroded try clean the pin(s) by scraping with a pointy Xacto knife, apply dielectic grease (buy at the auto-parts store) to the connection then repeatedly mate/demate the connector. That might be enough to fix it.

If the socket is worn or deformed it should be replaced. If that is the case there are a few options but see if cleaning and dielectric grease works first. Good luck.
 

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0.16v on ground is ok here, there are always small voltage drops in the system.

For a circuit like this anything under 0.5v is ok, the lower the better.
 
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