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GSXR Fork Information / Permutations

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527K views 1.1K replies 197 participants last post by  Bremsen  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is a summary of the different models of USD Radial forks used on the various Suzuki models.
Hopefully, this will concentrate all the dimensional information on the most popular SV/GSXR fork conversion possible configurations.

Let's start with the matrices for the dimensions of the various fork models:

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Acknowledgments to Sam over at TL zone for initiating the primary chart creation and to all those who provided the data for it.

This excellent illustration courtesy of jeff721 will help indicate to what the measurements in the chart refer:

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Of course, there are the non-radial USDs used on the 01-03 750 and 01-02 1000 but the Radial versions seem to be the most popular, so that is the focus of this post.

So - looking at the primary area of interest for GSXR Radial Forks:

2003/04 1000
Gold/black inner tubes; gold calipers
300mm rotors.
850 springs
32mm offset; 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2005/06 1000
Bronze/black inners; black calipers
310mm rotors
950 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Center ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2004/05 600/750 (same)
gold/chrome legs, gold calipers
300mm rotors
850 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 25mm bore

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2006+ 600
gold/ chrome leg, black calipers
310mm rotors
900 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2006+ 750
black/ bronze leg
310mm rotors
1000 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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Calipers:

03/04 1000 and 04/05 600/750 (fit 300mm rotors std)

* The 03 1000 calipers are 4 pads per caliper - look the same as the two-pad variant
No interchangeable re pads however

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All other GSXR models

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Yamaha Monoblock (R6)

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Caliper/Rotor Matrix:

Calipers can be utilized from all the models above, by using spacers* per this matrix.
* Note that although for some sizes it says N/A, this means the combo would be too tall;
however, you could actually machine the caliper (or fork leg stanchion) as opposed to a spacer

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Triple Clamps:

You can mix & match a bit here:
The ideal top clamp I believe would be the 04/05 600/750 clamp
This has ignition offset to the right (same as SV and more conducive to the Vee shape of the front of the speedo for naked)
It has a 30mm offset and a 25mm bore.
Direct fit on 04/05 l600/750 lower triple clamp/forks
To fit on 06+ 600/750 forks/lower triple, bore stem hole to 28mm
To fit on 05/06 1000 bottom triple, bore stem to 28mm

If you have no access to machining, then the 05-06 1000 top clamp will fit directly on the 06+ 600/750 steering stem. This clamp has ignition 'straight ahead. The steering lock WILL lock, albeit with the wheel straight ahead, as opposed to the conventional full left position.

06+ 600/750 top clamps obviously 'fit' their own forks/bottom triple, however, the ignition is offset to the left; it requires some machining of the ignition module to avoid interference with the frame on the left side and the steering lock will not function without drilling frame. This makes it a less ideal choice.

Bottom clamp:
03/04 1000 has 32mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
05/06 1000 has 30mm offset 54mm bottom fork dia and 28mm stem
04/05 600/750 has 30mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
06+ 600/750 has a 30mm offset, 53mm bottom fork dia, and 28mm stem

Note that 06+600/750 forks are 53mm at the bottom clamp diameter - the others above are 54mm; so consider that as you wish to mix/match bottom triples & forks.

Axles:

The wheels are comparable fitment for all 01+ GSXR;
However, the axles change with the fork generations;

For the first group of forks per the caliper table above (03-04 1000 or 04-05 600/750)
uses an axle & collar nut (same as SV1K actually)
Note that there is no additional wheel/axle spacer required.

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For the second group of forks (05+ 1000 or 06+ 600/750)
the axle has a threaded bolt, rather than a collar nut, with a separate spacer that goes between the wheel & right fork leg.

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Steering Bearings:

All GSXR forks in the range above have 30/55/17 top & bottom bearings.
All Gen 2 SV650 and SV1K are the same sizes also
Gen 1 SV650 is the same bottom bearing but requires a special top bearing from TWF Racing.

Wheels:

All GSXR wheels after SRAD will fit any GSXR forks described above
The rotors change sizes (and fitment) however

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Mix n Match Capability for Wheels/Rotors:

01-04 1000 and 01-05 600/750 and SV1K all are the same wheel dimensionally;
Will take 300mm rotors from 03-04 1000, 04-05 600/750;
Will take 310mm rotors from SV1K;
Will take 320mm rotors from any 96-03 600/750 or 01-02 1000 or TL, or Hayabusa

05-08 1000 and 06-07 600/750 take 310mm rotors only, from these years of the wheel only.

09+ 1000 and 08+ 600/750 take 310mm rotors only - note that these rotors are NOT compatible with the group immediately above & vice versa.
 
#88 ·
I basically asked that question earlier in the thread.

99 GSXR forks are non radial, monoblocks are radial mounted calipers therefore they are incompatible. There is a way of doing it, by swapping sliders along with the spindles but it would take a lot of work and some know how. My suggestion is if you want monoblocks, sell the SRAD forks and get 04+ GSXR forks. Thats as simple as it gets.
 
#90 ·
You can't swap sliders because those two forks use different friction bushing system. First one has one bushing on slider and other in tube (like stock sv fork where you have to force them apart) while second one (radial 04/05) has both bushings in upper tube.
However, like I mentioned swapping just knuckles is easy job.
 
#91 ·
By "easy job" you mean once you have the forks taken all the way apart, right? I imagine that, for someone willing to pull the forks off the bike but ending there, it would likely be cheaper to buy a set of 04/05 600/750 forks than to have the swap done.
 
#94 ·
I have a question and i'm pretty sure it isn't in the sv suspension sticky.
Does the spring rate for the gixxer 600/750/1000 matter for rider weight since they are all fully adjustable anyway? using the racetech site the .95 spring rate of the 1000 seems to be best for my 200lbs of fat but does it matter at all? also since the manfacturers of the forks are different are any of them considered better quality than the other? ive heard 600 forks are the best...
 
#97 ·
You use less or more travel. 1 rate up/down is fine and you can adjust damping but in stock form you will run out of damping. Compression is not that bad but rebound is weak. This is more noticeable on race bike than street bike. Ideally you want damping and spring rate to fit riding.
 
#101 ·
01-03 600 uses 45mm forks, and that's significantly smaller than anything else as old or newer. It might be possible to make those work - note MIGHT, you could almost certainly make them fit but safety would be an issue - but anything upside down is way too big.
 
#103 ·
Yep, a friend of mine installed 99-02 R6 forks on a 1st gen. He machined the stock triples out to 43mm. Who knows how safe it is...
 
#114 ·
This is too long but bare with me. I put a 06/07 gsxr 600 front end on a 07 sv650. After getting it all put together and riding it for a couple of days I was not impressed. The front end is not as stable as the stock one and has a tendency to dive in the corners. I have too keep extra pressure on the bars when it is leaned over. Overall its a big disappointment.

Now the questions, Will nicer bearings help? Anyone have a link where they got theirs? Does the top nut on the steering stem need to be torqued? What about the lower nuts that hold on the steering stem?

Last question has anyone posted what the settings are set at on their 06/07 gsxr600 front end?:dizzy:
 
#116 ·
bearings won't help. if you can bounce the bike on the brakes and not hear clicking, the torque is probably reasonable.

what size front tire do you have?
 
#119 ·
- youkai -

Your problem sounds a lot like the one that I had with almost the same exact setup. For me it ended up being 2 things: 1. Steering head bearing was too tight 2. The ignition was binding on the frame neck.

I would suggest unbolting the ignition and laying it off to the side while you ride. See if that doesn't help.

If that doesn't help, leave the ignition to the side, and loosen the bearing adjustment a little, see if that helps.

If that works, bolt the ignition back on, see if the problem comes back, if so you'll need to grind away at it.

If none of that works, I got nothing. But like I said, sounds like the problem I had and I was super disappointed, once I got it sorted out, I still think that the swap is a little overrated, but much better than stock.