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GSXR Fork Information / Permutations

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528K views 1.1K replies 197 participants last post by  Bremsen  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here is a summary of the different models of USD Radial forks used on the various Suzuki models.
Hopefully, this will concentrate all the dimensional information on the most popular SV/GSXR fork conversion possible configurations.

Let's start with the matrices for the dimensions of the various fork models:

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Acknowledgments to Sam over at TL zone for initiating the primary chart creation and to all those who provided the data for it.

This excellent illustration courtesy of jeff721 will help indicate to what the measurements in the chart refer:

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Of course, there are the non-radial USDs used on the 01-03 750 and 01-02 1000 but the Radial versions seem to be the most popular, so that is the focus of this post.

So - looking at the primary area of interest for GSXR Radial Forks:

2003/04 1000
Gold/black inner tubes; gold calipers
300mm rotors.
850 springs
32mm offset; 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2005/06 1000
Bronze/black inners; black calipers
310mm rotors
950 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Center ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2004/05 600/750 (same)
gold/chrome legs, gold calipers
300mm rotors
850 springs
30mm offset, 54mm lower clamp
Right offset ignition top clamp, 25mm bore

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2006+ 600
gold/ chrome leg, black calipers
310mm rotors
900 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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2006+ 750
black/ bronze leg
310mm rotors
1000 springs
30mm offset, 53mm lower clamp
Left offset ignition top clamp, 28mm bore

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Calipers:

03/04 1000 and 04/05 600/750 (fit 300mm rotors std)

* The 03 1000 calipers are 4 pads per caliper - look the same as the two-pad variant
No interchangeable re pads however

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All other GSXR models

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Yamaha Monoblock (R6)

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Caliper/Rotor Matrix:

Calipers can be utilized from all the models above, by using spacers* per this matrix.
* Note that although for some sizes it says N/A, this means the combo would be too tall;
however, you could actually machine the caliper (or fork leg stanchion) as opposed to a spacer

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Triple Clamps:

You can mix & match a bit here:
The ideal top clamp I believe would be the 04/05 600/750 clamp
This has ignition offset to the right (same as SV and more conducive to the Vee shape of the front of the speedo for naked)
It has a 30mm offset and a 25mm bore.
Direct fit on 04/05 l600/750 lower triple clamp/forks
To fit on 06+ 600/750 forks/lower triple, bore stem hole to 28mm
To fit on 05/06 1000 bottom triple, bore stem to 28mm

If you have no access to machining, then the 05-06 1000 top clamp will fit directly on the 06+ 600/750 steering stem. This clamp has ignition 'straight ahead. The steering lock WILL lock, albeit with the wheel straight ahead, as opposed to the conventional full left position.

06+ 600/750 top clamps obviously 'fit' their own forks/bottom triple, however, the ignition is offset to the left; it requires some machining of the ignition module to avoid interference with the frame on the left side and the steering lock will not function without drilling frame. This makes it a less ideal choice.

Bottom clamp:
03/04 1000 has 32mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
05/06 1000 has 30mm offset 54mm bottom fork dia and 28mm stem
04/05 600/750 has 30mm offset, 54mm bottom fork dia, and 25mm stem
06+ 600/750 has a 30mm offset, 53mm bottom fork dia, and 28mm stem

Note that 06+600/750 forks are 53mm at the bottom clamp diameter - the others above are 54mm; so consider that as you wish to mix/match bottom triples & forks.

Axles:

The wheels are comparable fitment for all 01+ GSXR;
However, the axles change with the fork generations;

For the first group of forks per the caliper table above (03-04 1000 or 04-05 600/750)
uses an axle & collar nut (same as SV1K actually)
Note that there is no additional wheel/axle spacer required.

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For the second group of forks (05+ 1000 or 06+ 600/750)
the axle has a threaded bolt, rather than a collar nut, with a separate spacer that goes between the wheel & right fork leg.

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Steering Bearings:

All GSXR forks in the range above have 30/55/17 top & bottom bearings.
All Gen 2 SV650 and SV1K are the same sizes also
Gen 1 SV650 is the same bottom bearing but requires a special top bearing from TWF Racing.

Wheels:

All GSXR wheels after SRAD will fit any GSXR forks described above
The rotors change sizes (and fitment) however

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Mix n Match Capability for Wheels/Rotors:

01-04 1000 and 01-05 600/750 and SV1K all are the same wheel dimensionally;
Will take 300mm rotors from 03-04 1000, 04-05 600/750;
Will take 310mm rotors from SV1K;
Will take 320mm rotors from any 96-03 600/750 or 01-02 1000 or TL, or Hayabusa

05-08 1000 and 06-07 600/750 take 310mm rotors only, from these years of the wheel only.

09+ 1000 and 08+ 600/750 take 310mm rotors only - note that these rotors are NOT compatible with the group immediately above & vice versa.
 
#932 ·
Tapered roller bearings certainly have a narrower tolerance for torque value than ball bearings (which is why the factory does ball bearings).
 
#934 ·
Junkie, with the R6 calipers, did you run standard lines and banjo bolts for the gsxr master cylinder, or did you get an R6 master cylinder. Reason I'm asking is I've got the following:

CBR F4i master cylinder (16mm)
Standard Tokico calipers
Wezmoto braided lines

The lines thankfully fit the CBR master cylinder just right. Wondering if they'd fit the R5 calipers without having to have custom ends put on.
 
#936 ·
My recollection is that the R6 calipers have the banjo a little farther up on the caliper than the GSXR calipers, but the banjo size is the same.

AFAIK all Japanese bikes use M10x1.25 for the banjo bolt (but I could certainly be missing something).

Rotation might be an issue too, I don't know.

I use a GSXR radial master (currently, I need to swap a D675R Brembo on).
 
#937 ·
Did you have any issues with the plastic bucket style brake fluid reservoir when mounting the GSXR master? I've never used clip ons and noticed that it bolts into the original brake lever assembly. I've obviously got the risers and conventional bars...is it fine just floating about or did you fab something up to stabilise it?

Thanks for answering my questions by the way, I'm sure it'll help others a lot as well!
 
#938 ·
I used the stock one for a while, I forget exactly how I had it mounted. Then the mount broke (old plastic gets brittle), so I bought a billet China reservoir and tapped the handlebar to mount it.

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#944 ·
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that's what you measure, you can see there are small flats at the points and you can measure across those fairly easily
 
#946 ·
Didn't manage to measure but the internet says 36. If you have a caliper (or even a ruler) it's easy enough to verify fairly close.

Got better pics of the stops though.

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#947 ·
Just waiting on the R6 monoblocs to be machined down by 7mm then I'm good to go. Happy times!

Junkie, any advice on suspension settings? Wondering if you started out with stock settings for the Gixxer front end then worked from there, and if you had to make any drastic changes such as loads of preload etc. I appreciate the settings will be different for my forks from yours.

 
#948 ·
BPF are entirely different than what I have.

Sag is easy enough to set with a friend, damping I'd recommend getting some professional help with if you don't have any experience with suspension.

Funny that you need 7mm machined off, I need to buy (or make) 7mm spacers to fit the rotors on my new Carrozzerias.
 
#950 ·
I'm not saying it's wrong, I'm just laughing that we need to go the same amount, in opposite directions.

I'm having Zoran do the spacers. I could do them myself, but on a tiny manual machine and I don't feel like spending the time.
 
#953 ·
Hey guys, Just bought my SV last weekend and the first thing I looked up was to do GSXR USD fork swaps.

Now I don't do any machining, and would like to keep this project cheap. I'm not sure how much machining anything costs, but I can imagine it's expensive.

From reading the first page on this thread, I gathered that the first thing I need is 05-06 1000 top clamp to go on 06+ 600/750 steering stem. I'm still trying to make sense of all the other information, but it's late and I'm too tired.

Can anyone help me start this off with what else I'll need to get/do etc...?

Thanks heaps!
 
#955 ·
That will bolt right up (although I'd recommend changing your steering head bearings) and give you steering lock with the bars centered.
 
#957 ·
Any front end swap will require some fiddling to get the speedo working again.

Any 00s front end will bolt right up, and the steering stops will work. Early forks are on the short side, your best bet for length is 06-09 600/750 (600 are likely sprung closer to right).

There won't be a steering stop with them, though.

topyokes.com made a custom top triple clamp for me, which fits my 06 600 forks/triple clamp and gives me proper steering lock and mounts for upright handlebars.
 
#961 ·
Righty, my bike's together, everything is torqued up correctly - I'm finding it's weaving side to side at slow speeds. I've done the following:

1. Ensured correct pressure is in the tyres
2. Loosened off the lower triple clamp pinch bolts and bounced the bike up and down with the brakes applied
3. The bearings are new, brand new...both top and lower. The triples are torqued to factory spec
4. Front tyre wear is even, no squaring off

Here's my thoughts:

fork(s) are bent. They do look poker straight to look at and the seals are fine, no leakage whatsoever.

Discs are bunk, can't tell if they're straight tbh. Watch this video I filmed, can someone else check if they have the said steering wheel style side to side freeplay:

The R6 Calipers aren't aligned properly. As there's no locating dowels - I'm assuming the bolts themselves act as a centering method? If not, is there a trick to this as the standard GSXR calipers also don't have locating dowels.

Maybe the bearings aren't seated properly? I placed them, torqued the top nuts down as per the manual with the correct tool, also ran side to side about 10 times to seat them properly them backed off the top nut a quarter turn as per the guide. Looking at the bottom triple, it sits VERY slightly off completely flush of the headstock, which makes sense or it'd rub.

Any thoughts?