yes the fork tube was all the way down when i measured the air gap. What are you referring to when you say compression adjuster? I talk to Rich from sonic springs and he said you dont use spacers with the sonic spring? I thought they were just a straight swap?

 

Adjuster on bottom of the fork leg.
You use spacers but if springs are same length as stock you use stock spacer.
If not you change spacer length.

 

Im using the stock spacer. And so you said the compression adjuster should be all the way in? So is that full soft or full hard?

 

No, just saying if all the way in it will be harder for you to compress forks.
Should start with 1.5 turn out. All the way in is full hard.
Were sonic and stock spring same length?

 

I figured it out....its the dust seals of all things. I got a set of aftermarket ones from All Balls Racing. They are pretty darn tight and were keeping the forks from compressing. I slid them down to check and now the forks compress no problem. Anyone know if there is a way to loosen up the seals or am i going to need to pull them off and use OEM ones?

 

I had a similar experience with All Balls fork seals. I replaced leaking seals in my 09 GSXR 750 FE with ALL Balls oil and dust seals. Upon partial reassembly I noticed that the tubes did not slide nearly as easily with the new seals. I went ahead anyway with the reassembly and they just didn't feel quite right back on the road. I ended up replacing the seals with OEM and problem solved. I spoke with All Balls after my initial concerns regarding the stiction and they sent me a new set of seals to try. Not wanting to swap out bad for bad I used OEM seals instead. Great customer service, dodgy fork seals? Got a set if anybody wants to try their luck.

 

You should have used stock oil and dust seals to begin with
Nothing works better than stock.

 

Ok so i am disassembling my fork tube to get anodized. I got everything off except there are 2 bush guides in the tube (look like big metal spacers). One under the washer that was under the dust seal and then theres one 8-10 inches in from the side that has the fork cap. Anyone know how to get those out?

 

With special tool.
The one further inside can only come out in one direction, forgot now which one, would need to look.

 

Yeah i ordered them off amazon and i should have known that it couldnt have been right because it said like GSX-R600 99-15 for the years it fit. I went to the All balls website and put the year and model in and it gave me a different set of seals. The correct part number from All Balls for 04-05 600 forks is 57-108-1. Oil seals is 55-120. The combo is 56-133-1. New dust seals are waaaayyy better. Slide just as good as OEM.

 

I have a quick question:

I have 06 750 forks and I'm doing a swap on the 06 SV-N.

Will my original clutch cables etc work or will I be better off using riser bars? I'm trying to use TL1000 bars right now, but it looks like everything is going to hit something if I route the clutch cable this way. I might just try to get everything to work, but I'm wondering if there's something I'm missing.

Also, is it just me or are the bars really friggin low with this setup haha. I feel like I'm a foot lower in front than I would have been with the stock naked bars and a good 4-5 inches lower than the SM bars I had.

From the chart, it looks like the 06 750 forks are the longest of the lot too.

 

You should be good with TL bars. If you can get CBR1000 bars they are raised a little more.
Cables gonna be long, but should be able to re-route and use no problem.

 

Do you know the difference in dimensions of the bars? My Google fu is being useless.

What do you mean reroute? Just pull the cables back under the tank or disconnect and reroute the clutch cable entirely? I'm going to have the brake cables going outside the forks, i.e. Not behind the headlight area. Is that kosher? Just wanted to make sure the routing didn't have to go behind her headlight assembly for safety reasons.

 

I think cbr bars 1/2-3/4 inch taller. I bought chinese ebay 1s for mine. I like'm, but bar ends suck. Basically plugs in tube. Re-route to take up slack is all I meant. As long as it is not hitting radiator. Or impeeding turn radius, u'll be all good. I have opposite problem. My throttle cable too short. Is pain in ass. Still have to re-route mine.

 

I was being an idiot. I was using the GSXR bars, not the TL bars... Hence the issue.

It's a little better now, but it still looks like a mess. I'm going to need to figure out how to clean up the wires sometime..

 

I would just stuff the wires in the headlight housing.

Speaking of wires, here is my solution for my vapor gauge. Fabbed it up myself out of 1/8" aluminum plate I bought on eBay. Powdercoated it semi-gloss black with an HFT powdercoater. Wires will probably route through the hole instead of downward due to the ignition. Might also have to grind down the ignition to make it all fit.

 

Looks great!

Honestly, looks super clean. Can't wait to see what that looks like mounted.

 

Yeah that bracket looks great. so your using the ignition to mount it that pretty crafty. I used the holes that are to the left and right of the steering stem hole to mount my vapor. Not as pretty but gets the job done. My problem is since im running my bike naked and with the stock headlight bracket you can see all the wiring to the headlight and what not. I have a projector mounted in my headlight so i cant stuff the wires into the headlight housing.

 

Very nice Peach!

 

Did my swap today. Will post up a full log but here is a teaser. Didn't have good lighting for a money shot from the side. Overall, it was super easy and really only took a couple of hours. Really helps to do plenty of research. All that's left is wiring up the vapor, brake bleed, and overall shakedown.

Some key findings:

1. The rubber cushion clamps for the headlight bracket actually acted as perfect steering stops. They bump the frame right at the radiator mount bolt on both sides.
2. GSXR1000 straight ahead ignition was definitely ideal for Gen1. Only took a small amount of grinding with a dremel of the ignition body that rubs the frame to retain OEM steering lock function (bars turn left).
3. CBR1000RR bars felt good, but the bars themselves are too short to fit all the grips and controls. The grips hang off the edge by about 1/4" on both sides. Not enough room for bar ends and mirrors.
4. I fabbed a damper bracket out of 1/8"'aluminum that was about 1" wide in an L-shape. Damper rubs lower triple. Will have to revisit. Probably have to make it wider to give damper more space. It also bent slightly and too easily so I'll probably go with a steel L bracket of sorts instead.

 

I have TL1000 clip ons right now and was thinking of switching to CBR1000 clip ons for additional rise. The issue you're encountering is something I've read about before and it's definitely holding me back.

If I don't like the clip ons, I might just swap back to a bar since I have a triple I can do that with. It might be a better setup for longer rides, especially when coupled with a slightly bigger windscreen which I still need to get.

 

How do CBRs fit everything? Narrower controls?

 

Must be.

If I'm going to spend time and money on different clip ons, I might as well use bars I have sitting around to get to the same height instead of spending money on stuff!

Are the Chinese eBay ones generally considered unsafe?

 

They are ok. Bars themselves cheap, Barends are ****ty, plastic plugs. Clamps good. Go with CBR or TL's if availible.

 

I did my swap awhile ago and im still working on tuning the suspension. How much travel should i have? I was reading articles online and it said it should stop 10mm before it bottoms out. Mine is not even close i rode it around over bumps and everything and bounced it myself and its like 75mm from reaching the bottom. And thats with no preload. The springs I put in are .80 and should be good for my weight. When riding i feel like it runs a little wide when i exit the turn.

 

You guys with first gen conversions have the forks flush with the top triple or do you have it sticking above the triple and if so how much?

 

Mine is flush.

 

I have the fork tubes flush (caps stick up) but my rear shock is a LOT longer than stock.

If when riding you're seeing 3" of unused travel you probably have too much front preload/spring rate.

 

I have about 2.5" before it bottoms out. I believe the spring weight is right for my weight. Im kinda concerned about the valving. I know the guy before me was like 100 lbs heavier than me and he had it tuned to himself. I know it was sprung heavier so i replaced the springs with lighter ones. Also i know when it comes to fork oil 5wt varies by manufacturer. I used Maxima 5wt anyone know if it is actually on the heavier or lighter side?

 

Mine are set to where the tube begins to taper below the cap, same as stock GSXR.
Did you duplicate spring/spacer length when you swapped for the .80's?
What sag numbers are you running? Have you tried backing the comp. adjuster way out just to see what difference it makes?