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Steering stops and lock should both work fine I think. There might be some interference between controls and fairing at full lock.

No clue if you're interested, but I've got a Spiegler top clamp for that that would allow you to run conventional handlebars.
 
I believe the GSXR clipons will hit your fairing, although I can't guarantee it. Riser clipons, such as those from the TL1000S, would solve that problem. Note that it's not horrible, just annoying.

Most people go with front wheel, probably because it's easier. You'll need a hall effect sensor and magnets either way but I'm not sure where the best place to buy them is.
 
Discussion starter · #266 ·
I think I saw somewhere that I can use a gsxr speedo sensor as ahallefect sensor. Is that true? ....
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... can I use superglue to glue the magnets on my disks? I cant put them in the riverts as my galffer wavys have 9 of them sonoone is popsite another.
Quick-set epoxy probably better choice
 
I've been accumulating parts for my swap for a couple months now. I have a hall effect sensor and magnets for the speedo fix.

Is there any reason I can't put the magnets and sensor on the rider's right side of the wheel? I think all of the photos I've seen have it on the left. When doing the swap, I'll also be installing SS Spiegler lines that follow the stock routing (i.e., one line out of the MC, double bango at the right caliper, and one line over the fender). I'd prefer to have the speedo cable zip tied to the brake line for a cleaner install rather than have lines going down each fork leg (which is why I passed on having two lines from the MC in the first place). Anyone see this as a problem?
 
So I finally got around to mounting my 07 GSXR 750 Front end on my gen 1 650. I'm using a 04 GSXR 1000 upper triple clamp so I can retain usage of my steering lock. Everything come together great except that the ignition switch/steering lock assembly did not have enough clearance with the steering head when turning toward the right. So i began to shave off some material on the steering head. Then the though that maybe the lower triple may be bent causing this clearance issue.

If the lower triple tree clap is bent, it must be only slightly. the forks went in without trouble. And it doesn't look tweaked with the naked eye. Has anyone had to do this to a gen 1 while retaining the stock steering lock?

Thanks in advance.
 
Discussion starter · #274 ·
^^^ OK

.... Everything come together great except that the ignition switch/steering lock assembly did not have enough clearance with the steering head when turning toward the right.
So i began to shave off some material on the steering head.
A LOT easier to mod the key-switch vs the steering head!

First - you slot the holes so the keyswitch can move further away from the steering head.
That should take care of it.

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If it still is snug, then you can also just take a file across the face of the lock section, where the lock-pin comes out.

Check to ensure you have clearance between the lock & the steering head - slide a piece of card in there to be sure.
 
Im looking to get new rotors...
Current Setup:
SRAD Wheel
05 600 Forks
Black Tokico Calipers


I want 320 rotors, what are my options? From which bikes can I swap over? Looking over the chart, seems like I can use any 320mm, 91 PCD...Am I correct?

Thanks
 
^^^ OK



A LOT easier to mod the key-switch vs the steering head!

First - you slot the holes so the keyswitch can move further away from the steering head.
That should take care of it.

Image


If it still is snug, then you can also just take a file across the face of the lock section, where the lock-pin comes out.

Check to ensure you have clearance between the lock & the steering head - slide a piece of card in there to be sure.
Man... why didn't I think of that? Though, I did take some material off the lock section. Thanks, D'Ecosse.
 
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