[B.a.]

so i'm in the process of sanding and stripping paint getting ready for slightly warmer weather to start the painting process. i just wanted to get some accounts from people who have done this before and how it went.

 

[BossMan]

JBS is painting his bike.

I've tried painting before, but I just don't have the patience for it. :nosepick:

 

[enrico vespa]

You're doint the right thing waiting for it to get warmer. I painted in the winter and that was my nightmare. Paint wrinkling and resanding only for it to wrinkle again was horrible.

 

[jbswear]

My running log of painting my bike:

http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=93619

Mine is a slow process because I can only get to it one evening a week, if I'm lucky. It's coming along well, if slowly.

I'm hoping to dive in more soon because it's getting warmer and I want to actually enjoy riding again...

If you can do it indoors, the cold temps won't matter. If you cannot paint indoors, don't even try.

 

[B.a.]

sweet.

yeah i trying to get some bmw paint codes at the moment. not telling what color yet.

 

[armountainridder]

Just finished mine with rattle cans, can't afford $500+ to paint 10 little pieces even when I did all the prep work. I'm waiting for the clear on the tank to dry overnight then I will get it all back together an post a photo or two. Not too difficult, just time consuming when all you have is a couple of hours after work. Total for all material was just over $75. Is it a show winner, not by a long stretch, but for a bike that gets ridden in all kinds of weater looks OK. The durability issue will just be a wait and see.

 

[B.a.]

The durability issue will just be a wait and see.

yeah thats my question. i'm probably going to load up on coats. was thinking at leat 5 coats primer 6 coats base and maybe 8 coats of clear.

 

[Northwind]

You basically have 3 choices... Either use a fairly flimsy topcoat such as cellulose or single pack, and resign yourself to it rapidly looking crappy... Or give it a proper clearcoat... Or use an enamel or some other hard basecoat that doesn't need cleared. As I've found out, no amount of softer clearcoat offers good enough long-term protection, I used a good quality singlepack but it just doesn't last when faced with the road, chips too easily and fades from riding. I put 6 coats on mine, but as it was constantly fading, swirling and scratching it needed to be constantly cut back and repolished, and now I'm actually through to paint in places

If you want a really good job, it's doable but it's not easy. If you want a 5-pace-away-good job, that's pretty achievable

 

[srsnq2]

I just finished painting my dad's GS1000 this winter, painting in the cold sucks! That being said, his bike turned out really good for the $60 I spent on Duplicolor rattle cans. They sell a metallic clear coat called Effex that made a big difference in the overall look, very cool.

I did 3 coats primer, 4 coats of color, 1 coat of Effex followed by 2-3 coats of clear. Sorry about the big images.

 

[Bttr_thn_yr_gixxer]

I just painted the bumper on my fiances car. Make sure you let your base coat flash properly. I painted in the cold and I got the wrinkle after I shot the clear. So let the paint dry completly before you shoot the clear. Now that I know how and I have the tools to do it (paint gun) I hope to add some custom paint to my bike.

 

[cirsory]

JBS is painting his bike.

I've tried painting before, but I just don't have the patience for it. :nosepick:

i'm in the process of painting only a gas tank with rattlecans. looks like crap because i dont have enough patience. but it only needs clear coat left.

 

[Northwind]

Careful with some of this advice, not all paint is the same- the singlepacks I use specifically have to be cleared BEFORE they've fully flashed off, otherwise the clearcoat doesn't stick right.

 

[bighammer]

Careful with some of this advice, not all paint is the same- the singlepacks I use specifically have to be cleared BEFORE they've fully flashed off, otherwise the clearcoat doesn't stick right.

Lost me. :tard: It's stuff like this that makes me realize I don't know the terminology, the products, or have the skills to do this without some serious research. :nosepick:

 

[Northwind]

Ah, flashing off is basically just the solvent that's used with the paint evaporating- with non-catalysed paints (like singlepack or cellulose) there's no real hardening process, you just have paint and solvent and once the solvent is gone you just have paint. Some paints, you let completely harden before you spray a clear coat, but others don't work like that as the basecoat finish is too smooth for the clearcoat to stick to it effectively, so it's very prone to delaminating and chipping.

 

[zachs 650]

just my opinion but i would never paint my bike, even though i just painted my 91 mazda b22 in my garage-at night-in two days-the truck cost about 450 with etch primer-3 coats reg. primer-3 coats single stage color-misc. sanding and solvent. turned out ok but just as i finished a moth landed on the hood and yes its still there. there is no replacement for a quality painter and booth. yes spray paint is easy on the budget but id rather pay the price than look at my mistakes all the time. plus it would be nice to have a better than factory look.

 

[jbswear]

just my opinion but i would never paint my bike, even though i just painted my 91 mazda b22 in my garage-at night-in two days-the truck cost about 450 with etch primer-3 coats reg. primer-3 coats single stage color-misc. sanding and solvent. turned out ok but just as i finished a moth landed on the hood and yes its still there. there is no replacement for a quality painter and booth. yes spray paint is easy on the budget but id rather pay the price than look at my mistakes all the time. plus it would be nice to have a better than factory look.

When I'm done you can look at mine and see that you're wrong. Patience and proper set up is the key. Mine is costing me less than $80 do to. Yes, it's taking a while, but it's worth it for me.