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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I'm re-doing the connections to a couple of accessories (driving lights and grip heaters). They were previously just run directly off the battery but I would like them to be switched via the ignition switch.

They work fine but, yes, eventually I left the grips on and killed the battery. And yes, I was a long way from home....

Currently, I have a heavy-enough fused power wire going from the battery under the tank up to behind the headlight shell. Inside the shell the power splits off to the grips and to a relay for the lights. Both the lights and the grips have a on/off switch.

Questions: There are two unused "connection ports" on the back of the fuse box.
Is there a standard connector that will plug in to them ?
Or does one just twist the wire / solder and shove it behind the steel tab ?
Is it best practice to plug the existing power wire into the back of the fuse box to run up to the front of the bike ?
OR Do you leave that power wire as is and run a separate pair of wires from the fuse box to the two switches ?



If Ive missed an existing "How to" thread ... I'd be grateful for a pointer or advice . Thanks.
 

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Do not tap power from Orange at the fuse box. That will stress the already overloaded "Green Ignition Connector". Heated grips and driving lights are heavy loads and it will burn.


A good easy solution is to use the battery direct fused line you already have and simply move heated grip power from before the relay (unswitched) to after. If the relay is a garden variety automotive, it should be rated 30amps or more, plenty to safely supply both the lights and grips.

Edit: If the existing relay is switched by the driving light On/Off, then move relay control from On/Off to a switched power wire (O/G would be good), then add a second relay to switch the lights. Or, if the existing driving light switch can handle the current, bail the extra relay and wire the On/Off directly through the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.
I'm not sure I fully understand how to use the relay to configure the accessories to only work with the ignition key on ... but I will open up the head light shell and look for a O/G (orange with a green stripe?).
But mainly thanks for raising the green connector issue. I found a number of threads about that connector failing at speed and killing the engine.

Do not tap power from Orange at the fuse box. That will stress the already overloaded "Green Ignition Connector". Heated grips and driving lights are heavy loads and it will burn.


A good easy solution is to use the battery direct fused line you already have and simply move heated grip power from before the relay (unswitched) to after. If the relay is a garden variety automotive, it should be rated 30amps or more, plenty to safely supply both the lights and grips.

Edit: If the existing relay is switched by the driving light On/Off, then move relay control from On/Off to a switched power wire (O/G would be good), then add a second relay to switch the lights. Or, if the existing driving light switch can handle the current, bail the extra relay and wire the On/Off directly through the switch.
 

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I removed the green plug and have my grips running off of the fuse box. I'll find the connector end I used when I get home tonight.
 

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Thanks for the reply.
I'm not sure I fully understand how to use the relay to configure the accessories to only work with the ignition key on ... but I will open up the head light shell and look for a O/G (orange with a green stripe?).
Yes, O/G is Orange with Green stripe, it is located in the gauge harness and is switched power to the gauge. Perfect for controlling an ignition switched relay.

To clarify the relay explanation, let me first ask, what is controlling the relay already installed?
 
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