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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen many great posts about fuel pumps problems and fixes. But after using all that great information I still have problems. I have seen good information about corrosion and connectors disintegrating, I have this same problem, but the whole wire are very crispy I have cleaned and Crimped New ends onto the wires. (Wish I tested for connectivity before putting it all back together) I also noticed one of the castings on the resistor has a small hole in it. So I’m in need of new cables At least. (The pump was working last summer before I put it away and the corroded connects I figured was the problem. Everything else tests out ok. (Before I took the pump out the bike tried to start, no fuel getting to the engine) now I can pull the clutch in and turn the key and nothing at all happens. There are no error codes on screen.... any help is appreciated and if you have Resistors And cables that would help a lot.
53890

The first problem I found

53891

Can’t tell if is all the way through but not even sure they have to be completely sealed.


53892



53893

All cleaned up and new crimped ends. I would rather have a newer harness because the wires seem to have some corrosion as well.

Anyone have a harness or the resistor set up ?
 

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now I can pull the clutch in and turn the key and nothing at all happens. There are no error codes on screen...
If the bike has power but the only thing that is not working is the starter motor (no click, nothing), check the clutch switch plug located on the underside of the clutch perch.

If the plug has fallen off, that is likely the problem. If the plug is on, try remove and short the contacts with a paperclip.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If the bike has power but the only thing that is not working is the starter motor (no click, nothing), check the clutch switch plug located on the underside of the clutch perch.

If the plug has fallen off, that is likely the problem. If the plug is on, try remove and short the contacts with a paperclip.
I have been reading a lot and some stuff I just have no clue about. First, can a fire start in the gas tank due to wiring (it’s freaking me out)
Second, will a bad connection on the pump make it so it would do this ? (I don’t think so, since the grounds where bad and I still had the bike trying to turn over)
Third, I know the resistors in the tank are not sealed anymore or where they ever, does it matter ?
Fourth, will the bike start if the gas is to low ? (For my test I only put in a half gallon or so.)

ill take a look at what you suggested in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If the bike has power but the only thing that is not working is the starter motor (no click, nothing), check the clutch switch plug located on the underside of the clutch perch.

If the plug has fallen off, that is likely the problem. If the plug is on, try remove and short the contacts with a paperclip.
Wow, died nuts on, the cable slipped off the connector by the clutch... you know you shit... Thank you....
But so far I’m not turning over.... I hear the bike August the air intake, some sort of buzz, but I’m not sure if the fuel pump Is priming. What will that sound like or can you hear it in the tank area ?
 

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As GC said, the fuel pump runs the first 3 seconds after key-On. Be sure the bike is in neutral. If the bike is in gear with the kickstand down, the pump will not prime.

The throttle valve plates buzz at Key-On too (could be confused with the pump sound) so the best way to know if the fuel pump runs is put your ear to the tank, the sound will be loud, unmistakable.


First, can a fire start in the gas tank due to wiring (it’s freaking me out)
lol. I have thought the same thing. But there are literally millions of electric fuel pump systems on the market, bikes and cars, and you never hear of spontaneous explosions so it is not likely to happen. Those little fuel level thermistors get HOT too when they operate but never heard of an SV tank explosion either.

Second, will a bad connection on the pump make it so it would do this ? (I don’t think so, since the grounds where bad and I still had the bike trying to turn over)
Nope, clutch switch as you discovered.


Third, I know the resistors in the tank are not sealed anymore or where they ever, does it matter ?
The little cans are thermistors, not resistors. They are designed with vent holes to let gasoline in/out, but the one you have with the dent in the side is damaged.


Fourth, will the bike start if the gas is to low ? (For my test I only put in a half gallon or so.)
So long as the pump sump has fuel the bike will start. Probably need a pint min.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
As GC said, the fuel pump runs the first 3 seconds after key-On. Be sure the bike is in neutral. If the bike is in gear with the kickstand down, the pump will not prime.

The throttle valve plates buzz at Key-On too (could be confused with the pump sound) so the best way to know if the fuel pump runs is put your ear to the tank, the sound will be loud, unmistakable.



lol. I have thought the same thing. But there are literally millions of electric fuel pump systems on the market, bikes and cars, and you never hear of spontaneous explosions so it is not likely to happen. Those little fuel level thermistors get HOT too when they operate but never heard of an SV tank explosion either.

Nope, clutch switch as you discovered.


The little cans are thermistors, not resistors. They are designed with vent holes to let gasoline in/out, but the one you have with the dent in the side is damaged.


So long as the pump sump has fuel the bike will start. Probably need a pint min.

ok, it doesn’t seem to be priming, the value plates open and close but I’m not hearing any noise in the tank.
How do I see if the fuse for the fuel pump is good. (If the big blackmone
Is for the fuel pump that is)
what is the big black one next to the regular fuses ?
Also just noticed an oil lamp in top left Conner of display. When I turn the key of I do hear something like pump, it sounds like 5 wan wan wan wan wan sort of like a mechanical clock(can’t think of anything else) it’s not a ticking but like a gear spinning with a can of sorts.
53913

53914

Does the big black one have anything to do with the fuel pump and how should I know if it’s and good ?


(You guys are the best by the way, thanks so much)
 

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ok, it doesn’t seem to be priming, the throttle valve plates open and close but I’m not hearing any noise in the tank.
Sound like there is a problem with the fuel pump/connection itself. Did you bench test the pump to hear it run before installing it back in the tank?


Also just noticed an oil lamp in top left Conner of display.
That is normal, no oil pressure when the engine is not running.


Does the big black one have anything to do with the fuel pump and how should I know if it’s and good ?
The large black box is the sidestand-relay/flasher-relay combination. A problem there would prevent the secondary throttle valves from sounding on startup. It rarely fails. If it does fail it would be obvious, no sound at all at Key-ON.


When I turn the key of I do hear something like pump, it sounds like 5 wan wan wan wan wan sort of like a mechanical clock(can’t think of anything else) it’s not a ticking but like a gear spinning with a can of sorts.
That's the normal sound of the secondary throttle plates doing their startup dance. It is a good sign, means the ECM is alive, has power, and the safety switches are satisfied.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sound like there is a problem with the fuel pump/connection itself. Did you bench test the pump to hear it run before installing it back in the tank?



That is normal, no oil pressure when the engine is not running.



The large black box is the sidestand-relay/flasher-relay combination. So



That the sound of the normal secondary throttle plates doing their startup dance. It is a good sign, means the ECM is alive, has power and the safety switches are satisfied.
I found my owners manual and figured some of that out, but thank you if I hadn’t I’d still be in the dark...

As far as the bench test, I did not. (Thought about it and YouTube has good videos of how to do it) but since it worked last fall and hadn’t been on since, I thought it wasn’t the problem... lol last time I hope to make that mistake..... so I’ll take it back out test the pump, if it works it’s most likely the wires that I wanted to replace from the start. Just can’t find a harness for it. I’d rewire it, but I’m not sure of the wire sizes & have seen what can happen when you get those wrong.... safetest thing for a noob like myself to do is buy a new pump with wire harness. I guess
 

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Here is the wiring for the 2005+ SV650 fuel pump.

The pump does not need to be removed from the tank to test, just unplug the pump from the bike harness, connect 12v to Y/R, Ground to B/W. The pump should run.
53921
 
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