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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have a 2003 SV 1000. Way back in the day I used to race WERA and AMA, now I just ride on the street. The front end of the SV sucks! Granted I am now a fat *******. Should I look for a “true sport bike” front end swap or should I just improve the existing setup? I must confess that I am a big guy (240lbs). I’m not looking to win any races, just have a street bike that I can have some fun with.
Thanks in advance!

Bald Bill
 

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Honestly, unless you're going racing, or feel the need for stronger brakes, the K3 front end is quite adequate. Ditch the progressive springs for straight wound, install gold valves (which can be done on a K3), and use known quantity of quality 5wt fork oil.
You'll be very happy!

Stock springs are great for someone that weighs around 180 and they are valved accordingly.(if you like progressive springs)
Stock fork oil is Pl$$! And frequently levels aren't near equal between the two forks.
 

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Note that in head to head testing with professional riders and 75 other motorcycles (including the likes of Ducati and the SS bikes) the SV scored the fourth shortest stopping distance. And that's with a relatively short wheel base and low center of gravity.

I'd go for springs and emulators and see how that works out for you.
 

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Hey guys,

I have a 2003 SV 1000. Way back in the day I used to race WERA and AMA, now I just ride on the street. The front end of the SV sucks! Granted I am now a fat *******. Should I look for a “true sport bike” front end swap or should I just improve the existing setup? I must confess that I am a big guy (240lbs). I’m not looking to win any races, just have a street bike that I can have some fun with.
Thanks in advance!

Bald Bill
The stock springs on the 1000 aren't horrible like they are on the 650. A bit light for you, but not off a whole lot. I'd try just changing the fork oil first and see what that does for you.
 

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Note that in head to head testing with professional riders and 75 other motorcycles (including the likes of Ducati and the SS bikes) the SV scored the fourth shortest stopping distance. And that's with a relatively short wheel base and low center of gravity.
really? and how low cog to wheelbase on sv is compared to those other bikes?
you got numbers?
and while there show me sv1000 stopping distance, which is bike in this thread.

1000 springs are weird wound changing diameter and valving is off. along with some other internal crap.
get set of good linear springs from RichDesmond that fits your weight. try that and see if it works for you.
 

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To illustrate how the stock front spring is wound.......here's a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the advice! From the few miles I've put on the bike I can say that I'm quite happy with the brakes (I did put Teflon and Stainless steel lines on as well as new EBC pads). It is more the compression that I want to upgrade, with my fat ass on board when I hit the binders it dives hard. I have not checked the oil level yet, and I guess I won't worry until I change the springs and add emulators.

The rear does not feel as bad as the front but still, I'd like to tweek it for fat boy duty, suggestions?....

Thanks again for all of you help!

Regards,
Bald Bill
 

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you have cartridge forks, emulator is not for your forks.
if you want to change damping you need to revalve it.
 

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Bald Bill......Is your K3 a Naked or an "S"?

If the spring rate is anywhere near close to correct, front end dive can be cured with the proper oil level (less air above the oil to compress).

The reason that I ask which model is because they have different specs. A K3 Naked's fork oil level spec is 147mm and a K3 "S" is 162mm. Many have found (and Race Tech suggested) that running 5-12mm higher level will significantly reduce front dive.

Just my
.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a plain Jane SV-1000. At the moment I have the bike pretty much apart. I have removed the wheels, and will powdercoat them before putting on new Metzlers's. I have also removed anything with paint and am in the process if re-painting every thing in a 20% gloss, satin black lacquer. I'll take apart the forks and see what I'm dealing with, I'm thinking that I will order springs for my fat ass as well as emulators and see how that feels.

Thanks again for all of your input and help!

Regards,
Bald Bill
 

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I weigh about 210lbs + at least 20lbs of gear when I do a trackday. I've got stock springs and iirc 5wt oil. My front sag is about 34mm which is about the softest I can stand for street and light track duty with preload absolutely maxed out. I definitely need springs, but I wouldn't know about emulators as well. The front end isn't too awful otherwise.

Oh and ditch the EBC's (HH I assume?) and get some Performance Friction compound 95 pads. Initial bite is similar but you can go so much deeper with the PF's. Also not half as loud as the EBC's.
 

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I've got the PF 99 pads. The hotter they get the better they work, I've never noticed any fade.

I'm 230 pounds, and for suspension my rear shock is a GSXR1000K3 unit with the 8.6 kg/mm spring (Race Tech says 9.0 kg/mm for my weight, stock sv1000s is 8.0 kg/mm), and GSXR750K3 forks with gold valves, 1.05kg/mm Sonic springs, 320mm rotors, and stock sv1000s calipers.
 

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you have cartridge forks, emulator is not for your forks.
if you want to change damping you need to revalve it.
Quite correct. And since you have a K3 you have the luxury of doing that. Later model SV's aren't as easily serviceable.

As far as pads go, there's nothing wrong with the OEM pads. In fact, they're a fair bit better than EBC's (any of them). If you're bent on changing them, I'd suggest PF 95's or Vesrah RJL's for the street.
 

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This seems to be the thread to ask on :) Just picked up a salvage '05 1000S to use for track duty only, need to replace the left front fork seal. Thinking I'd just replace seals and oil for now. Questions:

1. what seals to order (OEM?) and where to order?
2. what oil to use and what amount?
3. I think I saw an earlier thread here where guys made their own disassembly tool and seal driver but I can't seem to find it this afternoon?
4. anything else that I need to get now besides the seals and oil? I don't mind taking them apart later to change springs if I'm not happy with only changing the oil.

I weigh ~ 200# without leathers, boots, helmut and gloves. I have an
'07 1000S that is all original for my DD and have been happy with the front end on it. I ran the '05 2 track days last week in 100 degree temps - the front end was NOT the limiting factor for me - LOL.
 

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1. what seals to order (OEM?) and where to order?
2. what oil to use and what amount?

I weigh ~ 200# without leathers, boots, helmut and gloves. I have an '07 1000S that is all original for my DD and have been happy with the front end on it. I ran the '05 2 track days last week in 100 degree temps - the front end was NOT the limiting factor for me - LOL.
1. OEM are fine. Order from Ron Ayers or Oneida Suzuki Pt#51153-42F00

2. Use Bel-Ray High Performance 5wt.
Factory spec oil level (measured with the springs out and forks collapsed) is 140mm. Given that you are going to use the stock valving and springs, which are progressive wound and a little light for your weight {.98}, I'd go 135-132mm, but no more. It will dramaticlly reduce dive and chassis upset on pre-entry braking.
 

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1. OEM are fine. Order from Ron Ayers or Oneida Suzuki Pt#51153-42F00

2. Use Bel-Ray High Performance 5wt.
Factory spec oil level (measured with the springs out and forks collapsed) is 140mm. Given that you are going to use the stock valving and springs, which are progressive wound and a little light for your weight {.98}, I'd go 135-132mm, but no more. It will dramaticlly reduce dive and chassis upset on pre-entry braking.
That's what I was looking for - appreciate it !
 
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