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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a new exhaust today, and one of the front header bolts was stuck/seized, and the head popped off when I tried to loosen it. Now I have around a quarter inch sticking out, and it is frozen in there tight. I hack sawed a slot head into it, and that didn't work. Tried vise grips, no go.
I rigged it up with a hose clamp to hold the retainer straight, and one bolt works for now while I figure out how I am going to get this thing out.
What should I try next?
 

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your down to drilling.. more detail here then needed but take what you like..
needed..
center tap
Drill
hacksaw blade
grinder
compressed air

smooth off what you can of the bolt head.

compressed air is optional.
if you are concerned about drill shavings getting in the cylinder head (if you go to deep with the drill) remove the spark plug set the compressor to a light flow and pressure.. I used a rubber cork with a hole drilled in the middle and the air gun nozzle squeezed into that. roll the motor over (by hand) until air is coming out of the exhaust port, plug the exhaust port I used a rag so wasn't a perfect seal.. now if you drill to deep the fillings will come back at you instead of in the motor)

step 1
use a punch and mark the center.. use a drill smaller then threads.. the idea is to turn the bolt into a tube and not touch your threads if you can help it.. after drilling it out.. you need to get a saw in there to slice to the edge (through the threads). I used a hack saw blade and a grinder to thin the blade so it will fit in the hole..

if you are thin enough and can get on to it with some needle nose pliers you may be able to twist and get the tube to fold on it's self.. and then unscrew.. if not you man need a second cut at 45° angle from the first one. remove a section and the spin a twist..

Option B.. get a heli coil!!
still smooth and center tap but now you drill to the size the heli coil says to tap new threads and insert the heli coil. then the orgianl bolt will fit in again..


Basically play with option A and if things go bad you have a plan B.

Other thoughts.. an easy out. never used them so can't say they will work

or this thing if you can cut another screw driver slot..

the idea is hit with hammer and it spins.. works on stubbern screws.. again not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I appreciate it. I think I will try an impact driver and then the heli coils if that doesn't work. I guess I'll hit it with some pb blaster too and let it sink in until the weekend.
 

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I did the same exact thing. if you have part of the bolt still sticking out do not drill it out. I tried drilling and i didnt drill straight enough and had to remove and replace the head. have someone weld a nut at the end and try to get the bolt out like that. spray it with creeping oil a ton before and let it soak in.
 

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Take any idea about easy outs and forget it because all that will happen is it will break and then you're really screwed. I would start spraying it down with pb blaster everyday then before doing anything give the end a few decent hits with a hammer sometimes help loosen up. The main thing is make sure the center punch is in the middle start with a smaller drill bit and work up but take you time and dont rush.
Also as far as depth use something to bottom out in the good hole, mark where the head is flush and use that to mark the drill bits so when its close to the head you know to stop.
 

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If you still have part of the shank sticking up after hack-sawing the slot and all, have a good welder weld a small diameter rod onto the end of the bolt, working quickly to avoid transferring much heat from the bolt to the head. The rod gives you something the grab onto and heating the bolt helps to break up what is holding it in. When you try to remove it, use PB spray, and heat the bolt with a torch, focusing on the bolt and not the head. You want it hot enough to sizzle water but not cause colors on the bolt (steel starts turning yellow ~ 415°F.)

If there is nothing above the head, drilling is really your only option. Start with a small drill, center as much as you can, and drill as close to the bottom as you can without getting into the head. Step up drill sizes until you are as close as you can get the the thread minor diameter (the points of the threads inside the hole), without touching, and then tap the walls of the screw inward away from the threads. Use heat again periodically during the drilling. If you're lucky, once the center is drilled out it will come out as a threaded cylinder. I do this all the time in gunsmithing, and can't count the number of times I've pulled out a screw piece by piece with a pick.
 

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i like the idea of welding the nut on and using a wrench..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the ideas, I was ready to go with plan a,b,c,d.... I just got that broken piece out! :)
I hit it twice a day with PB Blaster, cold before rides, and hot after riding since Wednesday. Today I removed the header, and tried the slot head again with no luck, and started to try and drill it, but the bit was binding in the slot. I was using a small one that I thought would fit.. Anyway, I figured I might as well give it hell with the vise grips again, rocked it back and forth for around a minute increasing the force gradual, and it originally budged in the tightening direction. !!! I was quite pleased, and all is well again with my exhaust studs :)
I was thinking about it, and the slot head I cut probably gave a good amount of extra grip for the vise grips, and that's a new trick in my repertoire now.
Thanks again to all for the help.
 
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