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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been attempting to install a new set of Sonic Springs into my stock gen1 sv650 forks, and since I had it all apart, I decided to go ahead and swap out the oil seals and do a full maintenance on them.

I've been following: http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/howto/svs_fork_oil/

and so far had much success (especially since this is my first time working on the bike) I've got new oil seals back on and even got the dampening rod bolt screwed back on the bottom. But this is where I ran into my issue.

With the Dampening rod bolt screwed in, my forks seem to be stuck in full compression. I can move them maybe 1/5" and they are stuck solid. When the bolt is out, the forks move no problem. I've reference a few other threads about this (People either say there is a vacuum causing this issue, or the oil lock plastic is stuck) but have yet to find a viable solution. The mallet and pull thing didn't work, and I've even tried bleeding a little fork oil into it and working it in.

Has anyone else had this issue? am I just tightening the dampening rod bolt wrong? Any help or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance!
 

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Are the yellow plastic bushings stuck? I had that problem when I did mine. I just ran the bolt through and yanked them loose. If you take yours seals, etc. Off and pull the fork apart, you will see what I'm talking about. Make sure the plastic 'thingies' are not jammed into the bottom of the top portion of the fork. That will cause your problem. Sorry for my lack of technical terms.

Just pull the forks apart, put the damper rod into the top only, screw the bolt in a bit, and yank the damper rod through the bottom to break free the seized part.

Good luck and I hope this helped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are the yellow plastic bushings stuck? I had that problem when I did mine. I just ran the bolt through and yanked them loose. If you take yours seals, etc. Off and pull the fork apart, you will see what I'm talking about. Make sure the plastic 'thingies' are not jammed into the bottom of the top portion of the fork. That will cause your problem. Sorry for my lack of technical terms.

Just pull the forks apart, put the damper rod into the top only, screw the bolt in a bit, and yank the damper rod through the bottom to break free the seized part.

Good luck and I hope this helped.
I read on a different forum that could be a potential problem, but I'm having a little trouble visualizing how that's keeping them stuck together. I also am hoping to use any option but taking the two parts back apart and having to reseal the oil seal (Took forever to do with the makeshift PVC pipe...)

With the dampening rod bolt out, I can freely slide the entire dampening rod out of the top. Maybe I will try to send a coat hanger down the pipe to pull at the plastic part you are talking about... >.<

Thanks for the input!



Send broomstick handle in and give the damper rod a good wack. It tends to hang up when it's dry on the inside.
The dampening rod should be all the way at the bottom already right? I assume that's the only way the dampening rod bolt can be fully screwed in. It's just the second it screws in completely, the forks are stuck.



Use a rubber mallet and give the lower tube a firm rap on the caliper mounting lug
This could be a very stupid question... but should I have the forks upside down or right side up while hitting it? Am I trying to loosen something and getting it to fall up or down is my question.


Thanks again everybody, I'll probably give it another go later tonight!
 

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...This could be a very stupid question... but should I have the forks upside down or right side up while hitting it? Am I trying to loosen something and getting it to fall up or down is my question...
Hold the fork tube upright, upper tube in one hand, wield mallet in downward direction with the other. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you fix it?
No :[

Sadly I didn't get a chance to try today due to work, and I work all day tom too. I'll update y'all on Monday! Thanks again for all the suggestions.

I'm gonna try Rich's idea of just hammering it down before stripping it all back down.
 

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You shouldn't have to force anything together other than the sliding bearing and inner seal. I would disassemble the forks and reassemble while consulting a parts fiche like ronayers.com.

Also, when you're hammering in the sliding bearing and inner seal, I found that it works a little better to do them one at a time, bearing first, obviously. The reason is that most of the resistance met in the process is due to the sliding bearing and by sandwiching the seal, you put it under a lot of pressure and can risk marring it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hold the fork tube upright, upper tube in one hand, wield mallet in downward direction with the other. :)
Good, that's the right place to start. Do it exactly as Rich described. Remember...heavy RUBBER mallet, caliper mount tabs, good whack.

So with school, work, and life in the way... I finally got a chance to try this.

To my great surprised, it worked! It took a few solid whacks, but it did slip apart. First I was worried I broke it, but hey, seems like all is good. I almost hate myself as to how easy that solution was. :facepalm: Especially after hours of pulling and screwing/ unscrewing the dampening rod bolt.

Moral of the story. Hit it till it works.

Next to the Springs - Just taking the PVC to the workshop to cut it down. I had half a mind to just cut down the stock spacers since they are longer. Any benefit to using that metal instead of the supplied PVC?
 

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So with school, work, and life in the way... I finally got a chance to try this.

To my great surprised, it worked! It took a few solid whacks, but it did slip apart. First I was worried I broke it, but hey, seems like all is good. I almost hate myself as to how easy that solution was. :facepalm: Especially after hours of pulling and screwing/ unscrewing the dampening rod bolt.

Moral of the story. Hit it till it works.

Next to the Springs - Just taking the PVC to the workshop to cut it down. I had half a mind to just cut down the stock spacers since they are longer. Any benefit to using that metal instead of the supplied PVC?
Glad it worked for you. :)

On the spacers, either is fine. Just make sure you follow the directions on determining spacer length. DON'T just make the new total spring/spacer length the same as stock.
 

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This happened to me a while back, and I stumbled across it in a search. I wasted hours trying to figure out how to get them apart without breaking them before I gave in and looked it up. Just one whack to each fork leg with the mallet did it.
 

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this thread just saved me. I'm having the exact same issue as initially described. cant wait to give the mallet trick a shot!! was so frustrated earlier when i couldnt get it to work. thanks so much everyone!!
 
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