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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put a new fork seal in tonight... and now the rebound on the fork is reallllly tight- It does cycle smoothly, but its just much stiffer when pulling the fork back up... way stiffer than the other fork feels with the old seal in it still.

Any ideas? Everything looks seated flush and level...

Also- it was stiff BEFORE i put oil in it (i attempted some oil to see if that would help smooth it out a bit...) - so even with just air, no spring or anything- just at the half way point with the rebound rod/bottom of fork assembled.




Also- side note- the other fork's rebound allen bolt wont come out- it just spins and spins - any thoughts on that?


Thanks SVR once more ahead of time!
 

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How much is "some oil"? It can be stiff till you fill it and pump it a bunch of times to get the air out. You said it cycled smoothly and I think that's probably the most important part.

Also- side note- the other fork's rebound allen bolt wont come out- it just spins and spins - any thoughts on that?
If I could go back in time to before I wrenched a single bolt on my bike, I would buy this without hesitation.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How much is "some oil"? It can be stiff till you fill it and pump it a bunch of times to get the air out. You said it cycled smoothly and I think that's probably the most important part.



If I could go back in time to before I wrenched a single bolt on my bike, I would buy this without hesitation.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html
I think I will cycle it a bunch more and hopefully get more air out- Just playing with it (with the cap on, press it down toward the floor) it made a interesting hissing (obviously air in there) sound ... hoping thats all it is... just strange that it does it even before I added oil.


Also- The other Allen bolt- its NOT tight- I have a 1 foot steel tube pipe I slide onto my socket wrench- its never failed me... gives that extra bit- either sheers the bolt clean off (welcome to the east coast rust on car exhausts) or it cracks them loose- it loosened the right side perfectly- the left side loosened but just spins in place- doesn't seem tight or loose... really worried threads are done on it... but no clue how to even get it out of there...

Its not loose loose- just snug... seems like its backing out- but doesn't actually move.
Edit: Anyone know the specifics of that bolt in case I have to get a new one in there? Seems like something I could get at a hardware store.
 

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For some reason I sort of remember the hissing sound you are speaking of. I believe its the oil flowing through the damper rod. Did you use a different weight than what was originally in there? Would possibly explain why the other one doesn't do it.

Your bolt is spinning because there's nothing holding the damper rod in place. With the little bit of oil you have in the bottom, it's easier for the bolt/damper to spin than it is for the threads of the bolt to let go of the rod. You can either a.) shove the end of a wood broomstick to try and hold the rod in place b.) put the spring in it and compress it with something like a ratcheting tie-down c.) put a impact wrench to it. The act of the impact should loosen the threads and back the bolt out.

I did B on one of my forks, really wish I would have done C.
 

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...The other Allen bolt- its NOT tight- I have a 1 foot steel tube pipe I slide onto my socket wrench- its never failed me... gives that extra bit- either sheers the bolt clean off (welcome to the east coast rust on car exhausts) or it cracks them loose- it loosened the right side perfectly- the left side loosened but just spins in place- doesn't seem tight or loose... really worried threads are done on it... but no clue how to even get it out of there...

Its not loose loose- just snug... seems like its backing out- but doesn't actually move.
Edit: Anyone know the specifics of that bolt in case I have to get a new one in there? Seems like something I could get at a hardware store.
You will probably not need a new damper rod bolt. However, you will almost certainly need to clean the oil off the top of the damper rod if you are going to use the broomstick method. You can wrap a rag around the end of a stick and get the top of the rod as clean as possible. Degreaser or brake cleaner works pretty well. Trimming the broomstick to a taper to fit the rod helps as well, and some people have tried attaching some rubber to the stick to increase friction. Suzuki sells a special tool to stop the rod from spinning but it is expensive and you can get along without it. Like Jwhazel said, the easiest way is to use a powerful impact gun, just extend the rod fully and whiz out the bolt. I've done it on SV's a couple of times and one rod bolt was more stubborn than the other each time. Last time I did it, my Harbor Freight electric impact gun couldn't unscrew the stubborn bolt so I had someone with an air-impact gun do it and it came right out. For assembly, I've used the stick to stop the rod from spinning so I could torque the bolt to spec, didn't feel comfortable using an impact gun to reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the great information- I was so exhausted running on a awful headache on little sleep working on this (was a dumb idea to start in the first place) yesterday...

Got a proper fresh day today- I am gonna try the broomstick :)... I have an impact gun but its one of these 1/3 horsepower harbor freight 19.99 deals LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Success!!!

I didn't want to hunt for a broom handle so i just screwed the spring back in with the original spacer- that put enough pressure on the rebound rod to get the bolt out- it was just fine.

So new oil, new RICCORS, new .85 Sonic Springs and new All Balls fork oil seals and dust seals. Gonna have lunch, get it all cleaned up and see what she does.

Thanks again SVR you guys are awesome... hopefully this whole thread will come in handy for someone else too :)
 
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