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I am going to be installing my racetech springs later today. how much fork oil do I need to put back into each leg??
 

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OberKommandant
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I filled them to 110mm below the top of the fork tube IAW Rich's instructions.
 

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So the way I understand it is....take out old springs/spacers.....drain fork oil......compress forks all the way, fill to 110mm below top of fork leg....uncompress fork legs........install new springs/spacers


go ride...have fun
 

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You could fill them to the top, I ga-raun-tee they won't be too soft!








:lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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I am having some problems, I got the old oil out, new stuff in and have the front end suspended to the forks are totally extended, I put in the springs and spacers and I dont see how a mere mortal such as myself is going to be able to compress that and get the top cap on there!!??
 

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Storz said:
I am having some problems, I got the old oil out, new stuff in and have the front end suspended to the forks are totally extended, I put in the springs and spacers and I dont see how a mere mortal such as myself is going to be able to compress that and get the top cap on there!!??
How high is the spacer relative to the top of the fork tube?? Since you have the adjustable preload caps, the spacer should be about 3/4" shy of reaching the top of the fork tube, IOW it should be recessed into the tube 3/4". If you have the adjuster backed all the way out it should be fairly easy to get the threads started, though you do still need to be careful since they're easy to cross thread.
When filling the tubes with oil stroke the leg through it's full travel a few times to make sure that all the air bubbles are out. Then measure and set the level. 110mm is good if you don't have emulators, if you do use 120mm. Takes a little less than a pint per leg. Once you get everything buttoned up set the sag.
 

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I know this is an old thread but this is what i'll be doing shortly. Do you guys recommend replacing any of the seals? The suzuki sevice manual was saying you should do that. My race tech springs came with a alum pipe, why is that? To make the spacers? I was assuming the spring would be the same size so a spacer would not be needed. Also when you are saying the oil should be "110mm" where exactly do you measure that? If you guys have any other recommendations or hints please let me know. Thanks for the help.
 
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sleepyhead said:
I know this is an old thread but this is what i'll be doing shortly. Do you guys recommend replacing any of the seals? The suzuki sevice manual was saying you should do that. My race tech springs came with a alum pipe, why is that? To make the spacers? I was assuming the spring would be the same size so a spacer would not be needed. Also when you are saying the oil should be "110mm" where exactly do you measure that? If you guys have any other recommendations or hints please let me know. Thanks for the help.
no need to replace if they dont leak.aluminum tube is for spacers,make sure you use washer on each side of spacer.aftermarket springs are different lenght so you need to calculate spacer lenght and cut it.
oil level is measured from top of fork tube to oil.you basicly measuring how much air is in fork.
 

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sleepyhead said:
I know this is an old thread but this is what i'll be doing shortly.  Do you guys recommend replacing any of the seals?  The suzuki sevice manual was saying you should do that.  My race tech springs came with a alum pipe, why is that?  To make the spacers?  I was assuming the spring would be the same size so a spacer would not be needed.  Also when you are saying the oil should be "110mm" where exactly do you measure that?  If you guys have any other recommendations or hints please let me know.  Thanks for the help.
In addition to what Zoran said, check this link on our web site:

http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/damper_rod_forks_tech_article.php

It's got all the info you need on determining the proper spacer length and setting the oil height.
 

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The springs Rich sells are usually a little longer requiring a shorter spacer to get the correct preloaded length, even shorter if you add emulators. As Zoran said you are adjusting air volume thus bottoming resistance and to a degree overall stiffness.

If you have time and you really want to make them optimum for you, start with 125 or 130 oil level and and add oil in 5mm increments until you hardly bottom out under your normal most aggressive riding. If you don't have the time then 110 w/o and 120 with is a good average oil level in the SV fork. It's hard to get suspension guys to agree on anything, but I'd say most of us would agree on those levels in the SV forks.
 

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i ran my old setup at 110 mm from the top. it was the mofo on the brakes, but definitely stiff. i'd run 120-125 for street use.
 

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that measurement, say 110mm is with everything inside the fork tube (the springs, washers and spacers)? I had measured down about 4.33" from the top of the fork and filled the oil to there. I then put in all the hardware and buttoned it up. When i got on the bike the forks hardly moved, and even with pumping they were basically rock hard. I then took out some oil out and the bike was a little better setup. I'm just alittle worried that i didn't do this correctly. The other concern i had was when i removed the fork caps with the stock springs inside the caps were under a little presure, now with the new springs there is really no pressure. Did i cut the spacers short? Oh yea i'm using 5 weight oil. thanks for the help...again.
 

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sleepyhead said:
that measurement, say 110mm is with everything inside the fork tube (the springs, washers and spacers)?  I had measured down about 4.33" from the top of the fork and filled the oil to there.  I then put in all the hardware and buttoned it up.  When i got on the bike the forks hardly moved, and even with pumping they were basically rock hard.  I then took out some oil out and the bike was a little better setup.  I'm just alittle worried that i didn't do this correctly.  The other concern i had was when i removed the fork caps with the stock springs inside the caps were under a little presure, now with the new springs there is really no pressure.  Did i cut the spacers short?  Oh yea i'm using 5 weight oil.  thanks for the help...again.
Did you do it with the forks extended or compressed??? Measurement is supposed to be done with the springs and spaces out and the forks fully compressed. Check the link I posted above, it goes into detail on the procedure.
 

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yup, i'm a dumbass. i used the sonic instructions to the swap but i clearly did not read them well. i measured with the forks fully extended. jackass of the day award goes to sleepyhead.
 

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and thanks again RichDesmond

I assume riding around with the forks the way they are is not a good idea...probably going to ruin my fork seals.
 

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sleepyhead said:
and thanks again RichDesmond

I assume riding around with the forks the way they are is not a good idea...probably going to ruin my fork seals.
Yeah, I'd fix that ASAP. You're getting some very high internal pressures.
Don't beat yourself up too bad, we've all pulled the occasional major brain fart. My list is reeeallly long. ;D
 

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sonic springs come with 2 washers...do i use 2 in each fork? one on the top and one on the bottom?
 

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blacktape said:
sonic springs come with 2 washers...do i use 2 in each fork?  one on the top and one on the bottom?
You really only need the ones between the spring and the spacer, the other pair is for guys who have put ajustable caps on the the '99-'01 bikes. They need the the second pair between the spacer and the cap.
 

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RichDesmond said:
You really only need the ones between the spring and the spacer, the other pair is for guys who have put ajustable caps on the the '99-'01 bikes. They need the the second pair between the spacer and the cap.
hehe....well i used the one inbetween the spring and spacer and the other one inbetween the spacer and the cap :D

should be fine i would think....
 
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