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Discussion Starter #1
What kind of bolt did you use on the bottom of the shock?
I have a ZX10 shock and I tried to use the Suzuki bolt, but somehow it got stripped and it can't be tightened fully. I need to cut off the nut and start over with a new bolt. What kind of bolt do you suggest?
 

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We use metal bolts, usually Titanium or steel, threaded with a hex head. Generally the same size and tread pitch as the stock bolt, sometimes yellow zinc coated. I don't know what other type of bolt you would be referring to?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Well does the Kawasaki shock have threads inside where the bolt goes through? I don't remember.
 

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Dillweed said:
Well does the Kawasaki shock have threads inside where the bolt goes through? I don't remember.
No, there are no threads on the Kawa shock. You need to use a bolt and a nut. I had to grind down both the head of the bolt and the nut to allow enough clearance for the dog bones to move freely. Im not 100% positive, but I seem to remember the bolt being a M12 x 1.75 thread...
 
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Well somehow I stripped the nut when I put it back on. It won't come off, so I'll have to cut it off.

THe only reason I'm asking all this is because the shock is loose......The bolt isn't all the way tight. It's either because 1) the nut got stripped before it could be tightened all the way, or 2) the Kawasaki shock is wider than the Suzuki wishbone and therefore needs a couple washers to take up the gap. You tell me. Either way, the bottom of the shock is loose and I've got to imagine it affects the handling adversely. That's why I want to get a new bolt.
 

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As far as I know, it is normal to have some side-to-side play on both ends of the shock. I know mine did and Ive had no problems so far. I just made sure that the bolt and nut heads cleared the dogbones at all positions within the play of the shock. Hope that helps.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Wow so yours is loose too? If you jack up the subframe and top out the suspension, you can wiggle the bottom of the shock. Seems like that can't be good when you go over big bumps & rises.
 

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Well, you need some free play in it for sure. As you hit bumps and what not the shock is going to rotate about that pivot point. If it was tight then you would be gaulding the aluminum subframe to the aluminuim end on the shock. That would be bad. It definitely needs to be free to rotate - how much is acceptable Im not totally sure on. Do a search on 636 shock swaps. I know this topic has been talked about before.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Well there's a bearing in the linkage where the shock bolts up. So the shock would never rub against the linkage anyway, if I'm right.
 

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I found this: http://www.svrider.com/tips/gsxr_shock.htm

Note that on step 8 the author of this write up says its normal for the shock to move left and right. But like I said earlier, just make sure you grind the heads on the bottom bolt enough so that when it moves left and right they dont come into contact with you dog bones. Good luck and I hope you enjoy this mod. I have been very happy with the 636 shock swap I did last winter.
 

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Yeah, im pretty sure you are right about the bearing on the top side of the shock. Its been a while since I did my install :oops:
 
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See, the upper shock mount is tight. Doesn't wiggle. It's just the bottom mount that does. It's in no danger of hitting the dogbones though, because I shaved the nut. I just think it's rather odd and disconcerting that it wiggles down there. I think I should have put a couple washers in there to take up the slack.
 

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make sure it's a grade 8 bolt for automotive use but you can find a whole selection at Lowes or HD.
 

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OKcommuter said:
It's a good idea to shave you're nuts BEFORE attempting this mod, otherwise your shaft will chafe the dog's bone.
What exactly are we talking aboot here?? :shock:
 

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Nexus242 said:
OKcommuter said:
It's a good idea to shave you're nuts BEFORE attempting this mod, otherwise your shaft will chafe the dog's bone.
What exactly are we talking aboot here?? :shock:

If you have to ask....... :shock:
 
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