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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My previous gauge failed last year. It started with the odometer digits flickering and failing. Eventually the temp readout and speedometer failed completely and I purchased a replacement via eBay. I plugged the replacement in it worked fine. I chalked it up to a bad gauge cluster and went on my merry way. Around 5,000 miles and a year later it's happening again. Exact same symptoms. Eventually all I'll have a the tachometer.

Could this be a rectifier issue?

Could the gauge be getting rattled to death? I have it mounted to the triples with some rubber fittings so maybe it's not insulated enough.

Tail light and rear signals are LED. Front lights/signals are not. Everything is aftermarket. Perhaps I have a wiring issue?

I keep in on a battery tender and never have any issues starting or running the bike.

Any insights or suggestions?

TIA
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One more clue is that at higher revs, the problem improves slightly. I didn't notice this effect when my last gauge cluster failed.
 

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Have you ever tested the charging system on your bike? Tested the R/R for proper operation? Seems strange though that after fitting new gauges you didn't have an issue for all those miles. A bad R/R shouldn't get better by itself. I would go over the connections to the gauge assembly and any other electrical connections that you may feel are problem areas.
 

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I had a similar issue with my AC display on my old bimmer. Turned out to be a loose ground wire. (Engine block to motor mount)

Like the post above. Check your connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you ever tested the charging system on your bike? Tested the R/R for proper operation? Seems strange though that after fitting new gauges you didn't have an issue for all those miles. A bad R/R shouldn't get better by itself. I would go over the connections to the gauge assembly and any other electrical connections that you may feel are problem areas.
I've checked the connections several times to make sure they're clean and firmly connected, but I haven't tested the charging system with a multimeter. Mostly because I don't know what to look for and have very little experience using a multimeter.

My theory, for now, is that there is a problem with the charging system that will eventually destroy the LED display on any gauge I plug into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had a similar issue with my AC display on my old bimmer. Turned out to be a loose ground wire. (Engine block to motor mount)

Like the post above. Check your connections.
Will do. Hadn't considered the ground wire. thanks.
 

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You just need a basic multimeter, nothing expensive or fancy. Insert the black probe into the common port and the red probe into the port for Volts(V). Adjust the dial to read in the 20VDC range. To test how the R/R is doing you want to meter the voltage at the battery terminals. If your meter comes with alligator clips you can clip the probes onto the battery terminals or you have to hold them. Black probe to neg terminal and red to positive terminal of battery. Here are some values to look for:

At rest, fully charged battery= 12.5-13VDC
Ignition switch set to ON = above voltage slowly dropping to 12V
While cranking = drops to no lower than high 10s
Idling = 13V+
At 5Krpm = 13.5-15V
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You just need a basic multimeter, nothing expensive or fancy. Insert the black probe into the common port and the red probe into the port for Volts(V). Adjust the dial to read in the 20VDC range. To test how the R/R is doing you want to meter the voltage at the battery terminals. If your meter comes with alligator clips you can clip the probes onto the battery terminals or you have to hold them. Black probe to neg terminal and red to positive terminal of battery. Here are some values to look for:

At rest, fully charged battery= 12.5-13VDC
Ignition switch set to ON = above voltage slowly dropping to 12V
While cranking = drops to no lower than high 10s
Idling = 13V+
At 5Krpm = 13.5-15V
Thanks RMAN, You rock. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked it last night. My multimeter has options for 10vDC and 50vDC so reading the dial wasn't that intuitive. Once I figured that out, it was easy as pie. Thanks for the instructions. The measurements were right on spec. The dial isn't granular enough to nail it down to 10ths, but this is what I measured:

at rest = ~13VDC
Ignition on = Dropped slowly to ~12V
Cranking = 10-11V
Idled = 13V+
at 4-5Krpm = 14V+

The voltage seemed to hold steady while idling and when the RPM's where increased. This would seem to indicate that the charging system is OK. I also checked the connections to the RR and gauge cluster and they seem fine.
 

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Is this your track bike as listed in your profile? Maybe look at the fuse block. Look for corrosion and any sign of a loose wire. Not sure what else to recommend here in NJ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It mainly a track bike, but I run it on the street as well. I have an LED tail light and signals I mount up on the rear and a generic street fight type headlight w/ normal signals up front when I run it on the road.

Gauge flickers with either setup.
 

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As you found out, it's not the battery or charging system. I wonder what the odds are in both gauges just crapping out? I still think that there is a connector/wire/grounding issue with your bike for the power to the gauges. With the bike idling and the gauges flickering, you could wiggle all the wiring to the gauges and see if anything changes. Or, pick up a Vapor gauge, rewire and see if this occurs again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm inclined to agree that it's a connector/wiring/grounding issue. I could have had two bad gauges, but that seems highly improbable. I intend to go through everything more thoroughly as soon as I have a chance.

BTW, the T595 is one of the best looking bikes. ever.
 
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