Suzuki SV650 Riders Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I woke up with plans to go look at a relatively clean 2001 BMW R1150RT. While waiting for the time to leave, I got to watching some vids about common maintenance problems. They gave me the heeby jeebies to say the least. It wasn't helped by the fact that someone else came to look at it and left "still interested" but without the bike.

While cruising the internet between scary videos, I found a 2001 FJR 1300 (I'm in the UK) for well under the typical prices. It's listed as a Salvage title with some damage from a rear end collision, but I was immediately interested. So my friend and I drove over the the shop to take a look.

I forgot to take pictures of my own so I stole the ones from the ad.




I've sat on the stock seats before, they are rubbish. So this was a huge selling point for me. It's absolutely sublime.

The only real damage mentioned in the for sale ad referred to a bent exhaust hanger. Really the hanger is fine, but the muffler tube is bent and pushed in at that point. So the Right muffler tip is higher than the left.

After further inspection this is what I found.
- The brakes are shot, front and back. The back is bad enough that it's dragging really bad. I need to do a full rebuild of the calipers and master cylinders, and get new pads all round. The disks are also worn but I don't know how close to the limit they are yet.
- The clutch slave/release cylinder is leaking, but i'm not sure if it's internal to the unit or if it's the crush washers at the banjo connection.
- The center stand is twisted. I need to take it apart and see if its the stand it's self or the brackets that are mangled.
- The right side muffler has the previously mentioned twist to it, but I also found that there is a leak in the joint from the link pipe to the mid pipe. So Ebay special and new gasket is in order.
- The Throttle action is stiff so I'll be giving the cables some attention.
- The fork seals are weeping. After cleaning the tubes and taking a test ride there was fresh oil on them. Not much but enough to leave a shine on your fingers.
- The rear BT023 has a trapezoid profile that you can probably see in the picture. While I was waiting on the dragging rear brake to cool off I also noticed there was a plug in it that was badly eaten away. I was able to get a new BT023GT on sale for $133 with free shipping to my APO box.

I don't have it home yet because of the brakes, so right now I'm just shopping for parts. Here's the OEM list that I'll be trying to undercut.

Clutch Release Cylinder -- £ 119.78
Clutch Hose -- £ 140.17
Clutch Master cylinder rebuild kit -- £ 26.87

Front Brake Master cylinder kit -- £ 37.58
Front Caliper piston seals, Small -- £ 29.66 ea.
Front Caliper piston seals, Large -- £ 31.81 ea.
Front pads -- £ 37.00 ea.
Front disk Assy -- £ 227.54
(min thick 4.5mm)

Rear Master Cylinder kit -- £ 54.56
Rear brake hose -- £ 47.27
Rear disk -- £ 153.47
(min thick 5.5mm)
Rear Caliper Piston seals -- £ 5.89
Rear pads -- £ 37.00

Main stand Bracket 1 -- £ 79.93
Main stand Bracket 2 -- £ 59.65
Main Stand -- £ 185.64

Right side muffler -- £ 632.26
Muffler Gasket -- £ 13.28

Throttle Cable Assy -- £ 65.74

Fork oil Seal -- £ 9.94 ea.
Fork oil 10w 700cc/79mm airgap

Rear tyre -- £ 130


Things I'll likely need help with;
- Identifying the correct parts/kits (number and quantity)
- Caliper rebuilds (I'll probably steal some tips from the threads here)
- Forks Rebuild (Do I need more parts than just the oil seals?)

On the plus side of all this, It has the awesome seat and upgraded suspension that makes for a wonderful ride. I've always wanted a project bike and a Sports Tourer to boot.

Costs so far:
Bike £2250
Shop Manual (pdf) £3
Rear tyre £83.90
===========
Total £2336.90
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,184 Posts
i'd say you got a pretty good deal. i'd like to get something similar in a few years as my "retirement" bike.
curious to see how this project progresses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm hoping that it goes smoothly. I've got a copy of this over on http://www.fjrowners.com as well.

This is all the stuff I've found today and plan on getting,

HEL Clutch Line -- £28.99 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEL-Clutc...ycle_Parts&hash=item4aba970e23#ht_1392wt_1037
Clutch Slave -- £24.00 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FJ...cycle_Parts&hash=item337baa81e8#ht_827wt_1037
OEM Clutch Master cylinder rebuild kit -- £ 26.87 (OEM is cheapest)

Front master repair kit -- £ 20.72 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FJ...ycle_Parts&hash=item5ae9633af6#ht_1328wt_1037
Front Caliper Seal kit (both sides) -- £ 49.00 + £ 2.20 postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-TD...ycle_Parts&hash=item256e47e5a8#ht_4167wt_1067
Front Pads -- £ 19.98 ea. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-XJ...ycle_Parts&hash=item3f0baf6094#ht_3300wt_1271


Can anyone confirm if a newer rear master cylinder will fit an 01? -- £ 14.00 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FJ...cycle_Parts&hash=item4aae575a9e#ht_784wt_1037
US '03 5JW-2583V-00-00/US '09 3P6-2583V-00-00
UK '01 5JW-2583V-00

Rear pads -- £ 17.70 + £ 2.95 postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FJ...ycle_Parts&hash=item19c2b48ae7#ht_3548wt_1139
OEM Rear Caliper Piston seals -- £ 5.89 (cheapest)

Main stand w/ brakets -- £ 34.99 + £ 6 postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FJ...ycle_Parts&hash=item337be6e95f#ht_1277wt_1037

Right side silencer -- £ 80.00 + £ 10.00 postage (might get one for less, but this one looks pretty clean.) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-Y...cycle_Parts&hash=item2a184e3514#ht_500wt_1054
Muffler Gasket -- £ 5.95 + 2.95 postage http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-J...ycle_Parts&hash=item33751d2934#ht_2869wt_1037

OEM Fork oil Seal -- £ 9.94 ea. (OEM is close to the market price, but I have more confidence in the product.)


I'd like to try doing a valve adjustment while I'm fixing it up so I'll be getting these too
OEM Cam Chain tensioner gasket -- £ 1.42
OEM Cylinder head cover gasket -- £ 19.18

I haven't decided, but If it's in my budget I'll get the rear rim powder coated and possibly replace the brake lines all around for further piece of mind.

Right now it's sitting at £ 462.67 for parts. I have about £ 300 left in the budget (read loan) before I go over so I might just make it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,362 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got the bike home on Tuesday after another 3+ hour round trip. I've got nearly all the parts I should need to get it on the road. That is unless I need to rebuild the clutch master and rear brake master as well.

Tonight I was finally to do some work on it.



First thing's first, get the rusted and banged up can out of my way.


Here's where the car had turned it into a banana.


Now I knew the connection to the collector box was blowing but i wasn't expecting it to be rusted off all the way around.


It took some banging to get the old clamp off and it left me with this messy remainder of the gasket. More banging and it was on the floor. I'll take some 150 grit sand paper to the open pipe end to clean it up before putting on the new can.

After this I spent the next 3 hours replacing the center stand. I was cursing too much to bother with pictures. It wasn't much to see because the exhaust was in the way of everything.

I did remember to take some pictures of some of the other problems before cleaning up.


I've pressed the pedal all the way to the stops and now there's a spot on my floor.


The fluid is coming from the banjo union. Whether it's age, corrosion, or just loose I don't know yet. I did get a smoking deal on new lines front and back for just £62 so I'll certainly be ditching that nasty banjo.


The clutch slave cylinder is leaking at the banjo. The new line is waiting to go on after inspecting the other seals.


The forks are definitely leaking, not much but it made my finger shine.



I tried to get a good picture to show the condition of the brake disks. All three have pretty deep ridges on the inside and outside of the contact area.

The next thing I'll need to do is strip the body work off in preparation for the valve job and to make sure I don't spill brake fluid on them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,184 Posts
looks like a lot of work, but in the end you will have a darn good sport tourer for a reasonable price. i'm expecting to retire in @ 4 yrs, so i'll have time for more touring. i'm wondering how far in advance i should start the project. (of course a honda vfr1200 is also on my short list, and the longer i wait the older and cheaper a used one will be.) my requirements are shaft drive, liquid cooling, fuel injection, and factory hard luggage. although i may be a bit flexible if a good deal on a bmw comes along.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top