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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the images were all screwed up I decided to take my time and fix it. Btw this is gonna cost ya:p JK...enjoy!

Search key words: exhaust baffle restrictor muffler removal mod modification restrictorectomy

Since the original thread was obliterated in the apparent takeover of the server, here's a new thread for you guys. *I personal don't own a motorcycle, though I will whenever I've earned my Masters in Mechanical Engineering. *My friend, Brad, who is a member on this forum, owns a copper-tone SV650-S. *Tonight, we spent 40 minutes removing the exhaust baffle, and HOLY WOWZERS! did it make a difference!

Foreword: despite the fact that this is a write up on how to do this modification, you are doing this modification AT YOUR OWN RISK to both personal injury and property damage. *Do not attempt this if you feel the instructions are vague and/or you do not have enough mechanical finesse/expertise to pull this off (in other words, if you don?t understand these simple instructions, or you don?t know what the hell you doing, then DON?T attempt this mod). *Also, please don?t whine about the size/quality of the pix. *They?re this big for a reason, and that reason is so that you can see what detail can barely be picked up by a cheap Hewlitt-Packard digicam. *Also, let me say again that I don't own a bike, so I will apologize ahead of time if some of the terminology that I use is inaccurate; just PM/email me about any errors and I'll be sure to correct them.

How-to:

Tools needed (I'll take pix of these tools eventually; I just forgot to.):
1. Assortment of pliers: needle nose, adjustable small jaw, lockjaw (plumber's) pliers.
2. 1/4" and/or 5/16" drill bit.
3. Power drill.
4. 12" long, 1-1/2" inner diameter pipe, or 1-1/4" I.D. if you use my method of cutting and bending the exhaust tip. *This can be had from ANY The Home Depot store's plumbing department. *It's a "galvanized pipe nipple".
5. BFM or BFH (Big F---in Mallet/Hammer...your choice).
6. Zipties to lock down the front (and the rear if no stand is used) brake handle(s). *(This is optional, but certainly helps.)
7. Small jaw bolt cutter (this is totally optional but will help in crushing the exhaust tip).
8. Someone else to hold the bike steady hammering on the pipe-to-restrictor assembly. (Again, this is optional, but it certainly will help...it also allows you to carry on a conversation with someone other than yourself.)

For starters, we crushed the end of the exhaust pipe to allow for the use of a 1-1/4? galvanized pipe, instead of the more commonly reccommended 1-1/2? pipe. *This allowed for a snugger fit with the 1-1/4" pipe when beating the isht out of the baffle to break it loose.



Next, we used a bolt cutter to snip the crimped portions of the tip (just at the end) and then bent/crushed the pipe even smaller. *The crushing was further accomplished using small jaw pliers and needle nose pliers.




Following the crushing and cutting, a 5/16? drill bit was used to drill holes through the retainer plate. *Though the bit snapped off halfway through the process, we found that it was actually easier to use a ¼? drill bit. *You have to drill holes in the rear baffle retainer in a circular fashion such that there are never pieces in-between the holes that are wider than a ¼?.



After drilling ALL of the holes, you must use a wide blade straight slot screwdriver (a.k.a. ?flathead?) to knock out the metal inbetween the drilled holes. *This will prevent the rear baffle retainer from impeding the walloping process in knocking the baffle out.



As you can see in the following two pictures, a 1-1/4? galvanized pipe was slipped onto the crushed end. *With the bike up on a ?Pit Bull? (I believe) stand, zipties holding the front brake handle locked down, and Brad bracing the front of the bike so that it wouldn?t continue to slide across the floor, I began flogging the isht out of the end of the pipe. *We lost count of the number of swings after about 10, but that was because I wasn?t hitting the pipe hard enough at first. *Once Brad began bracing the front of the bike, it only took three or four HARD! swings to break the baffle loose.





After breaking the baffle loose, you can see that the end of the baffle that once existed flush with the end of the pipe, now resided just over an inch back inside of the entire pipe assembly. *It was loose enough that it could be turned, but it was catching inside of the pipe.





After subtly wiggling the freed baffle in such a way that the torn welds would fit through their respective gaps in the forward baffle retainer (where the welds originally were), the baffle EASILY slid out of the pipe. *If you look at the following pics, you can see why there was a hang up and why the baffle has to be worked out. *Others have complained about having to break the weld beads since they're so long by twisting/turning the baffle inside of the pipe, but fortunately for us, the weld beads on this bike?s baffle didn?t exceed ¾?.




Don?t ask me how the pipe was crushed on this end?I really don?t know.



As you can see in the following pic, the baffle is almost exactly 10? long. *Also in the following pic, you can see how BOTH ends of the 1-1/4" pipe were FUBAR?ed during the whacking process.



IMPRESSIONS: I liked the new sound of the bike, and Brad LOVED the sound. *He was dying to make some noise with this bike, and now he has it...practically for free. There is DEFINITELY a lot more bass coming from the bike as I heard him running up through the gears until about 1 mile (linear distance) away...even through the woods! (I live halfway to BFE...don't hate...). *Word to the wise: upon initial start up after the baffle removal, DO NOT STAND DIRECTLY BEHIND THE BIKE. *We noticed that A LOT of metal shavings and exhaust soot come out of the pipe afterwards. *Luckily, neither of us was behind the bike, but we did see the dark metallic cloud come out when revving up.

All-in-all, I'd rate this as about a 5/6 of 10 on the difficulty scale of modification...STRICLY because you have to bend the baffle end so much and then drill holes, and then whack the isht out of a separate pipe.
As far as worthwhile rating, I'd give this a definite 10 of 10 due to sound, appearance, AND SAFETY. *Sorry guys, but your OEM exhaust is REALLY quiet...this mod makes people FAR more aware of your presence AND adds a lot of bark to your bike's bite. *Remember, all of this is coming from a guy who hasn't yet owned a bike (but will someday) and rides one every chance he gets.
 

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Anybody try this on a 1st gen? I looked in the end of my 2002 exhaust and there appears to be more material(looks like stainless) covering the area that is drilled in these picks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm doing it as we speak. I don't know if you want to replace the one already there...but I figures since some people were complaining about not seeing the pics and the links were good I would fix it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anybody try this on a 1st gen? I looked in the end of my 2002 exhaust and there appears to be more material(looks like stainless) covering the area that is drilled in these picks.
I am just drilling right through the material. Its really easy! It kind of jerks the drill a little bit but it cuts right through. I drilled a bunch of holes and now I am hammering out in between the holes. I'll take a couple pics!
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lol. I drilled some holes in the baffle (like 14" down in the exhaust) and I really liked the sound but I want it to sound louder...lol. So, I'm doing this.
 

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It took ALOT of alcohol to do this. Beating the pipe into the muffler with an 8lb sledge just is'nt natural. Great free mod though. Need to disable the pair system because it WILL backfire and scare the crap out of you and cause everyone around to duck for cover.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It took ALOT of alcohol to do this. Beating the pipe into the muffler with an 8lb sledge just is'nt natural. Great free mod though. Need to disable the pair system because it WILL backfire and scare the crap out of you and cause everyone around to duck for cover.
How do you disable it? Probably unplug something under the seat? Is this going to hurt my engine?
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
O.K, I screwed up big time. When I was breaking the baffle loose the pipe I had was like 4ft long and did not go over the baffle. When I was hammering it broke free and now I have this big piece of metal on the end of the baffle. So, what do I do?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finally removed the baffle. Boy, my bike sounds SOOOOO sweet! I love these bikes. I am keeping mine FOREVER now!!! Worth the sound difference. I love it!
 

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This is such a butcher method. It really is a bad way to do this. The end result is not pretty. You can extract the baffle very nicely and easily with a hole saw and a dremel tool with flex extension.
ac
link to instructions? ???
 
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