Finally installing the GSX-R front.
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Here are my pics of the dismantling. Nothing great or beautiful, just tearing it apart...
Before:
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Seats, tank, bar removed:
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Headlamp gone:
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Holy dirty engine bay, Batman! (Carb throats have been covered since this shot was made.)
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I gently tapped a screwdriver into each pinch point to slightly open the clamps--else getting the top triple off would have been nearly impossible. Even this way, it took a bit of "nudging" with a rubber mallet.
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Before:
Seats, tank, bar removed:
Headlamp gone:
Holy dirty engine bay, Batman! (Carb throats have been covered since this shot was made.)
I gently tapped a screwdriver into each pinch point to slightly open the clamps--else getting the top triple off would have been nearly impossible. Even this way, it took a bit of "nudging" with a rubber mallet.
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"Security" type Torx nuts that hold the ignition in:
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You'll need one of these to remove it:
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Takes some force, as there's a locking glue in the threads:
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Everything removed from the fork legs:
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To lift it, I had J-Dog stand and support the legs as I lifted it on the motorcycle lift. As the chassis rose, the front forks just fell out of the bike. Very easy.
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You'll need one of these to remove it:
Takes some force, as there's a locking glue in the threads:
Everything removed from the fork legs:
To lift it, I had J-Dog stand and support the legs as I lifted it on the motorcycle lift. As the chassis rose, the front forks just fell out of the bike. Very easy.
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I bought a set several months ago from some vendor on www.amazon.com some months ago. This particular bit is a T40.
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That was from splices I had to put in a couple of years ago--when I put in the duals, I had a bird's nest of wires in the OEM bucket to hide, so I cut and spliced and moved the wires and connectors back into the frame. Trust me; it isn't as bad as it looks in the pic. The wires aren't tangled and can be pulled apart easily.
It was my first-ever attempt at rewiring a vehicle. Surprisingly enough, it was successful, and landed me the job I have now.
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Awesome thx.
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This is the set that I bought.
http://www.amazon.com/Torx-Tamper-P...5?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1233459622&sr=8-15
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http://www.amazon.com/Torx-Tamper-P...5?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1233459622&sr=8-15
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is that carpet in there?
i picked up my security torx bit set a napa for 7 bucks. they keep them behind the counter right behind the aero-kroil (best penetrant in the world) so you have to ask for them.
what's with putting the kroil behind the counter?
i picked up my security torx bit set a napa for 7 bucks. they keep them behind the counter right behind the aero-kroil (best penetrant in the world) so you have to ask for them.
what's with putting the kroil behind the counter?
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Yup. With a fresh paint job.
$400 for the complete front end, minus left clip on that was damaged in a crash.
$65 (shipped) for a complete left clip on from and eBay seller. Clip on, grip, clutch, controls.
$45 for stearing head bearing from www.twfracing.com
$8 for rubber sleeved steel clamps to attach the headlamp to the new legs.
Nope. Bare cement floor.
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If you don't mind me asking, what exactly do these look like and where did you get them? I ended up using U-bolts so attach my new light to the lower part of my forks.
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I haven't ordered them yet, as BamBam just showed them to me yesterday, but I'll be ordering them later this week.
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The part number from http://www.mcmaster.com/ is 3177T6.
The part number from http://www.mcmaster.com/ is 3177T6.
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