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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had to remove my PC3 and now when I run the bike, the red FI light stays illuminated, as well as "FI" flashing in the temp idicator area.

I have an 2003 650 with a full FMF system & BMC filter.

My guess is with the PC3 removed, the ECU is unable to command enough fuel, so the sensors are reading too lean.

Can someone tell me how to enter dealer mode without the dealer switch. I did try a search on the forum, but no luck.

Thanks all.
 

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1: You will need to make your ‘dealer mode tool’…

Simply take a piece of wire about 3 inches long and strip back about 8mm of the insulating sheath (twist the cores together on multi-core cable). Snip off the last 2-3mm with a pair of scissors or a wire cutter to leave a clean end.



: Undo & remove the pillion seat.

2: Locate the Dealer Mode Activation Connector
If you look into the tail unit from behind, on the left hand side you should see a bunch of a few wires & connectors behind a bit of plastic protruding from the undertray.
Follow this bit of plastic down towards the rider’s saddle and you should find another connector. It’s rectangular, white plastic with 6 holes for connectors in and only 4 of them used. It also has a black rubberised cover on it.







3: Turn off your ignition and put your ‘dealer mode tool’ in the two terminals that are next to each other.

**WARNING**
Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike. Do NOT connect either of the other two terminals to anything.



4: With the ‘tool’ still in the connector turn on your ignition. The temperature display should have disappeared and now you will see a little line (like a minus sign), the letter c followed by two zeros. If you have any other numbers shown in this display, see below to diagnose your bike’s fault.





CODE MALFUNCTION PART REMARKS
COO None No defective part
C12 Crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) Pick-up coil signal, signal generator
C13 Intake air position sensor (ZAPS)
C14 Throttle position sensor (TPS)
C15 Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECTS)
C21 Intake air temperature sensor (IATS)
C23 Tip over sensor (TOS)
C24 Ignition signal #1 (IG coil #1) For #1 cylinder
C25 Ignition signal #2 (IG coil #2) For #2 cylinder
C28 Secondary throttle valve actuator (STVA)
C29 Secondary throttle position sensor (STPS)
C31 Gear position signal (GP switch)
C32 Fuel injector signal #1 For #1 cylinder
C33 Fuel injector signal #2 For #2 cylinder
C41 Fuel pump control system (FP control system) Fuel pump relay
C42 Ignition switch signal (IG switch signal) Anti-theft
C49 PAIR control solenoid valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the detailed explanation.

I was familiar with the jump wire and the location of the connector, I just didn't know which wires to jump. I also have a PDF of the repair manual, so I have the codes and what they mean and how to test the individual components.

Can you tell me how you clear the code?

Again, thanks for taking the time to help me out!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Problem fixed!

To clear the code you need to solve the problem.
If the is problem solved all you need to do is put the ignition off and it's reset it self (no memory)
What malfunction code do you get ??
I had a code 13, indicating a Intake Air Position sensor related fault.

When I looked in my book and read thru the posible causes, the actual cause was not listed. Actual cause: IAP connector was not connected (because I failed to reconnect it when I was recently working on the bike).

I had removed the airbox to get to the PC3 connectors so I could remove my defective PC3. When I put the bike back together and got an FI light, I assumed it was because I am running a full system exhaust and the ECU was unable to correct the fuel mixture to compensate for not having the PC3.

Thanks again for your help!
 

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That's a nice guide Spierings.

However:

**WARNING**
Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike...
This warning is not really necessary - you are actually shorting the white/red wire to battery -ve return anyway.
While the frame is not a perfect ground point (it makes connection to the engine - which is physically connected to battery -ve - through engine mounting bolts etc) it will have no impact even if the wire (or an exposed paper-clip even) was directly contacting the frame.
 

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Hi all

I tried this useful tip and it works, only probelm is I know I get the FI light on at random times and when doing this bridge it never came on so offcourse no fault code showed.

I am wondering if my home made smart TRE as seen in this Post http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=55272 could cause the light to come on every now and again, and as soon as it comes on if I turn the ignition off and on again it goes away.

I also thought it could have been my old air filter since it has not been changed in 28000 Km but have just changed that as well for a K n N filter, also I have a Full Leo Vincie exhaust system, but have never had any problems since that was installed, all this really started when I installed the smart TRE thats why I belive it could be that.

Any Ideas anyone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi all

I tried this useful tip and it works, only probelm is I know I get the FI light on at random times and when doing this bridge it never came on so offcourse no fault code showed.

I am wondering if my home made smart TRE as seen in this Post http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=55272 could cause the light to come on every now and again, and as soon as it comes on if I turn the ignition off and on again it goes away.

I also thought it could have been my old air filter since it has not been changed in 28000 Km but have just changed that as well for a K n N filter, also I have a Full Leo Vincie exhaust system, but have never had any problems since that was installed, all this really started when I installed the smart TRE thats why I belive it could be that.

Any Ideas anyone?
In my opinion it is possible that your air filter was the problem, but chances are, the fabricated TRE is the problem. If nobody else has a problem with this TRE mod,my guess would be that possibly one of your resister values is wrong (either ohms or watts), but I have no first hand experience with this mod.

Best of luck!
 

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Hi all

I tried this useful tip and it works, only probelm is I know I get the FI light on at random times and when doing this bridge it never came on so offcourse no fault code showed.

and as soon as it comes on if I turn the ignition off and on again it goes away.
When you put the ignition off the FI system reset itself and the code is gone.
Put it in dealermode when the light is burning without turning the ignition off.
 

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... I am wondering if my home made smart TRE... could cause the light to come on every now and again...
It's possible - that would generate a C31 error.

As Spierings suggests, try plugging in bridge while ignition still on (although I'm guessing you need the key to get access to the plug!)
But you could try leaving it bridged and running like that until it posts the error.
(make sure you tape it up so it won't fall out while you're riding)

Otherwise, remove the TRE to eliminate that as a source of contention. If light does not re-appear, you know you've got a problem with it, or conversely need to start looking elsewhere.
 

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Thanks for your answers, I will try and connect the bridge while the bike is allready on, when the FI light is showing, and if nothing happens then yes I will be forced to remove the TRE and see if anything changes, but nice to know that I wont cause any damage if I decide to run with the bridge in place (as long as it stays) because I was not sure if this would do something to the ecu or other components.

I will update later, Thanks again.
 

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Just remove the TRE and ride around for a few days. If no FI light then throw the TRE back in and see if it comes back. Afterall its only a couple of connectors.
 

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I have this exact same problem, and no TRE Mod I have an 03 SV650s with GSXR front end, ZX10 shock, M4 full exhaust, PC3 and SV1000 snorkel I replaced my air filter last year when I got the snorkel because the previous owner had removed the OEM snorkel (any of these the same for you?). It hadn't done it for a while and then today, it happened again. The first time it started happening, I thought it was because I had air in the coolant system because the radiator was cold while the engine was hotter than normal. I flushed and added coolant and the light didn't come on for about 4 months until today. I just replaced a damaged oil pump gear (required draining oil and coolant) and added new oil and filter, and today (it was raining fairly hard) when I rode, the light came on after 20 miles or so. I pulled over and added more coolant, but it came right back on 2 minutes later. stopped again to check if I was leaking oil or coolant, shook the bike to try to release any air bubbles, and got back on the road. This time, I stayed under 70mph (light came on originally at 85 mph) I never got a light, but I noticed a severe loss in power and the water temp would fluctuate, climbing slowly to 190 and then plummeting to ~177 and then repeating the process. I've had trouble with rain before (losing power), even after I put EL gel on the front spark plug boot.
 

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In answer to your question mthree2b, my sv is a 2007 model 650cc and all the "mods" I have done are; full leo vincie exhaust system with baffle removed,
K n N air filter (I still have a sealed airbox though) and a Home Made "Smart TRE" and I am sorry to say that I get none of your symptoms described, my display temp is nearly allways on 75 degrees celcius.

I did however plugg in the diagnostic "bridge" again once the FI light was allready on and got the Fault code C31 which is the Gear position signal (GP switch) so I am guessing this is a by product of the Smart TRE since it is tricking the ECU. I might later try and remove the TRE to see if the FI light stops, but for now all I do is switch off the ignition if the light comes on and turn it back on and it is usually gone, and will not come back while riding only when stopping for a while, like by the time I finish work, it might come back when I turn on the ignition.
 

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Hi all

I tried this useful tip and it works, only probelm is I know I get the FI light on at random times and when doing this bridge it never came on so offcourse no fault code showed.

I am wondering if my home made smart TRE as seen in this Post http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=55272 could cause the light to come on every now and again, and as soon as it comes on if I turn the ignition off and on again it goes away.

I also thought it could have been my old air filter since it has not been changed in 28000 Km but have just changed that as well for a K n N filter, also I have a Full Leo Vincie exhaust system, but have never had any problems since that was installed, all this really started when I installed the smart TRE thats why I belive it could be that.

Any Ideas anyone?
I have the smae TRE and the same problem as you do.
 

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lame question but my fi light came on a few days ago and i did the dealer mode and it said c40. any one know that code?...
Actually not lame question at all

C40 is Idle Speed Control Valve problem - the pre-07 does not have ISC and that code is not in the regular manual (but is included in the 07 supplement)

Is it idling higher than should be?
Check for disconnect hose, or possibly cracked or split hose (or even unplugged)
 
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