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Hello
For a little context, I am currently in the process of getting my sv1000n up and running after a very unfortunate incident where the engine seized. After the incident, due ignorance on the subject of motorcycle winterization, i decided too drain the tank. (don't worry tank is NOW full of gas with a fuel stabilizer) I disconnected the fuel pump relay, jumped two wires together so that upon turning the ignition, fuel pump was stuck on and fuel flowed from my gas tank and into my gas storage cans. Upon completing the job, i reconnected the relay. I am now getting flashing F1 / Fi warnings along with the red oil light flashing, and no sign of the injectors being primed.

Shortly i will be bringing in the bike in to receive its new engine and i am in the meantime trying to chase down little issues , so that the job is as straightforward as possible for my mechanic. Let me know if you have any advice on the issue at hand. Thanks y'all!
 

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Put the bike in dealer mode to get the FI code.

If you see C41 (fuel pump) then check voltage on Y/B. When the key is first turned on Y/B should go low (less than 1v) for three seconds (this it the pump prime signal) then pop back up to 12v. This will verify if the ECM is sending the signal to control the fuel pump.
52416
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you , I’ll have a look over the next couple days. Appreciate you sending the screen grab and the link too putting the bike into dealer mode .
 

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Excuse my ignorance…. learning, learning, learning. This is my first time using a multimeter.
For all of these tests i had the negative probe (gray) attached to the battery and the positive probe (red) attached too each respective wire too which the fuel pump relay plugs into.

R/W:12.6 v ( Key OFF)
O/W: key ON kill switch in RUN position bike in neutral : 11.81 v
Y/B: .005 v for 3 seconds, dip down after 3 seconds too .001v
Y/R: .135v constant
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Put the bike in dealer mode to get the FI code.

If you see C41 (fuel pump) then check voltage on Y/B. When the key is first turned on Y/B should go low (less than 1v) for three seconds (this it the pump prime signal) then pop back up to 12v. This will verify if the ECM is sending the signal to control the fuel pump.
View attachment 52416
And yes TeeRiver the code was C41. Just to be frank this is an issue I MYSELF created by trying to figure out which wires on the fuel pump relay needed to be connected in order too short out the fuel pump and drain the contents of the fuel tank.

From the information provided, does it seem like i've compromised the integrity of the ECM ?
 

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R/W:12.6 v ( Key OFF)
O/W: key ON kill switch in RUN position bike in neutral : 11.81 v
Y/B: .005 v for 3 seconds, dip down after 3 seconds too .001v
Y/R: .135v constant
I am sorry, I should have mentioned the fuel pump relay needs to be connected to the harness (back-probe the connector to make contact) when taking the measurements. It looks like these measurements were taken with the fuel pump relay disconnected? That would explain why Y/B is always low (less than 1v).

Your probe technique is correct, multimeter (-) to battery (-), multimter (+) to the respective harness connector terminals. Good.

The key thing we are looking for is Y/B to go low (less than 1v) for 3 seconds immediately after the key is turned on then pop back up to 12v. If Y/B operates as expected then the ECM is ok, if not, most likely the Fuel Pump control transistor inside the ECM has failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am sorry, I should have mentioned the fuel pump relay needs to be connected to the harness (back-probe the connector to make contact) when taking the measurements. It looks like these measurements were taken with the fuel pump relay disconnected? That would explain why Y/B is always low (less than 1v).

Your probe technique is correct, multimeter (-) to battery (-), multimter (+) to the respective harness connector terminals. Good.

The key thing we are looking for is Y/B to go low (less than 1v) for 3 seconds immediately after the key is turned on then pop back up to 12v. If Y/B operates as expected then the ECM is ok, if not, most likely the Fuel Pump control transistor inside the ECM has failed.
Okay, i am going to try back-probing now, i'll let you know my results in the next couple of minutes.
 

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I am sorry, I should have mentioned the fuel pump relay needs to be connected to the harness (back-probe the connector to make contact) when taking the measurements. It looks like these measurements were taken with the fuel pump relay disconnected? That would explain why Y/B is always low (less than 1v).

Your probe technique is correct, multimeter (-) to battery (-), multimter (+) to the respective harness connector terminals. Good.

The key thing we are looking for is Y/B to go low (less than 1v) for 3 seconds immediately after the key is turned on then pop back up to 12v. If Y/B operates as expected then the ECM is ok, if not, most likely the Fuel Pump control transistor inside the ECM has failed.
Just back-probed Y/B it is at a constant 12V capacity, it did not dip down to 3V.
I also checked Y/R and it is at a constant .141V , no spike up to 12v upon key turn.

What are my options going forward? Mine is the sv1000n model, i just pulled the ECU to find this part number, 32920-16G70 , are ECM'S from different years interchangeable?
 

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Just back-probed Y/B it is at a constant 12V capacity, it did not dip down to 1V.
That along with the C41 error code means the ECM is likely bad, specifically a fried fuel pump control transistor.

This could happened if Y/B accidentally connected directly to 12v when jumping the fuel pump relay to drain the tank. Under normal operation the resistance of the fuel pump relay coil limits current from the ECM but direct connect to 12v will fry the transistor.

Do not feel bad. I admire your ingenuity and have blown up many things in my career. If you are not breaking things from time to time you are not trying hard enough. :)


What are my options going forward? Mine is the sv1000n model, i just pulled the ECU to find this part number, 32920-16G70 , are ECM'S from different years interchangeable?
The SV1000 ECMs are different from year to year. The best way to shop is by the exact part number. Never trust the eBay listings, the are often wrong.

A quick google of "32920-16G70 eBay" turned up this link. $40 plus $9.60 shipping.

One of the great things about the Suzuki SV's is there is a lot of info on how to fix them on the internet and parts are cheap. Best of luck to you.
 

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Oops, that eBay listing just ended. Contact mad8vcycles. That is his listing, he is a moderator here on SVR, excellent seller and all around great guy. Hi mad. :)
 

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Oops, that eBay listing just ended. Contact mad8vcycles. That is his listing, he is a moderator here on SVR, excellent seller and all around great guy. Hi mad. :)
It ended because i just bought :) , i wish i could buy you a beer my dude, you've been ohh so helpful.
 
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