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$1 Fender Eliminator

Materials needed ?
2 M6x40mm Bolts
2 Lock nuts for above bolts
4 Washers

We used a sawzall to cut the fender; you can use a hack saw as well.


1- Remove the seat of the motorcycle. Do this by removing the two gray plastic covers near the front of the seat (red arrow) under those will be an allen bolt that holds the front of the seat in place. Remove those, one on each side of the bike. Remove the seat.



2- You?ll see the bolts to remove to take the tail section of the bike off. Be careful and make sure you get all of the little plastic pop rivets off from underneath the tail section, remove the bolts that hold the passenger grab rail in place, remove the screw in the middle of the tail section. Under and remove the cable for the pillion seat release. Disconnect the turn signals and tail lights. Slide the tail section off towards the back of the bike, go slow and make sure everything is disconnected.

3 - Once the tail section is off the bike. Remove the fender by loosening the wheel well, remove the bolts at the two green arrow locations, and remove the fender at the red arrow locations. You don?t need to fully remove the wheel well, pull it down a tad to get to the bolts for the fender



4- Once you have the HUGE fender in you hand you?ll need to remove the turn signals, light, reflectors and the bracket for the license plate.

5- Now its time to do some cutting. Trim the fender along the yellow line at the red arrow. This remaining top piece is what you will mount the plate bracket and turn signals to



6- You?ll need to do a bit of trimming on the turn signal bracket (red arrow) It will snap out of the fender once the turn signals are off. Take off the little ?L? bracket that holds the plate light in place. This will be the central mounting piece for the entire set up.




7- Trim the turn signal bracket down so there is about an inch of room left on each side. (See pic) Drill holes (yellow dots) in the ?L? bracket and the freshly cut turn signals bracket lines up, you?ll end up with the following pieces. Bore out the holes a bit on the license plate bracket so that they line up with the holes that were in the in the ?L? bracket from the factory. Cut reflector tabs off of plate bracket.



8- Put the top part of the fender back onto the bike; assemble the license plate/turn signal bracket. Line up the bracket assembly onto the cut section of fender and mark where to drill the two holes. Drill through both the fender piece and the wheel well. Put the bolts through the entire assembly and tighten it down.



9- Install your turn signals and run the wires up through the stock holes in the fender piece, reconnect them. Reinstall your tail section and hook everything back up, make sure you hook the release for the pillion cable back up, tail lights etc.

10 ? Put on gear?.go for ride

 

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hey-- i just shot you an email with an attached PDF file of the bracket i built. hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just added it as a post, so those who emailed me here it is :)
 

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just one question, once you cut the fender on the line and mount it back up, does this cover all of the gaps in the undertail, or is it necessary to fabricate a metal plate for the space.....also do you have a close up picture of the finished undertail, where the lighting isnt as dark down there. if you have one please post it up

thanks for the quick email response also

im trying to get all the ideas i can before i go at this
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It fits pretty well, there is about a 1mm gap but thats it.

 

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Hey.. looks almost exactly like the fender job I did on my bike a few weeks ago. One difference - I kept the license plate light.



 
J

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Definitely need the license plate light to pass inspection in these parts. Other than that... great job!
 

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great job. i'm picking up an 05 tomorrow and removing the fender is probably the first mod i'll do.
 

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To those people in PA you will need to keep the liscense plate light also it is required for inspection
 

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Which reminds me.
Storz - can buy the license plate light bulb from you? I managed to break one, and can't find a place to buy a new one.
 

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PGHRIDER said:
To those people in PA you will need to keep the liscense plate light also it is required for inspection
I was inspected fine with a hotbodies undertail and my plate deep in the wheel well. No plate light to speak of.

You guys must be more conservative in Pittsburgh. :D
 

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ioreper said:
PGHRIDER said:
To those people in PA you will need to keep the liscense plate light also it is required for inspection
I was inspected fine with a hotbodies undertail and my plate deep in the wheel well. No plate light to speak of.

You guys must be more conservative in Pittsburgh. :D
hey just in case, where was that inspection done? cause i'm going for mine next week and i have an hotbodies with no light and want to make sure ihave a backup.
 

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Great write up, worked perfectly for me.
Only thing I did different was I didn't cut the tabs for the reflectors off the bracket. The angle there is perfect for hooking the bungees from the tail bag to. 8)
 

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Couple of comments when I did this

1) the extra bolt size doesnt really matter. I used m5 bolts because I couldnt find the m6x40 bolts. Actually you only really need 30mm bolts or so. There was alot of bolt left over

2) Might consider cutting a small section of metal, plastic etc to run under the blinker mounts. If you ran this in the u shaped channel, it'll prevent the blinkers from rotating, and you wont have to crank the heck out of the bolts.

3) Drilling the holes in the splash guard- be careful where your holes are. Mine ended up line up on a raised section (where the tank prop clip is) and I ended up having to stuff a bunch of washers in there as spacers so I didnt crush this.

4) Dont start doing this unless you have the means to cut/drill relatively thick metal. Luckily I had all the bits already but its thicker than you'd want to do with tin snips or anything like that.

Looks good when its done, but I really really want to do something about the rotating turn signals.
 

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ls14ever said:
4) Dont start doing this unless you have the means to cut/drill relatively thick metal. Luckily I had all the bits already but its thicker than you'd want to do with tin snips or anything like that.
You think a dremel with some cutting/grinding wheels and a cordless drill with good bits will be enough to tackle the job?
 
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