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I was wondering what I need to do to get a fatter rear tire. Right now I have a 170-60-17. The dealer told me that I couldn't go any higher. I was also told by someone else that I would have to change out the rim to a possibly TL1000 rim... don't know what to do, but I know that I want a fatter tire. Any suggestions??????
Thanks!
 
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It's a very common question, but I don't have an answer for you. Try searching for terms like "wheel swap" or "180".

:)
 

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I know it is a common question. And the common answer is that it will ruin the handling of the bike. The skinny 160 lets the bike turn quick. If you go with a 180 you will slow that handling. Sure, you want a 180? Do an F3 wheel swap and throw one on. The stock rim is a little narrow for that. i think you could go 170 at best, but even that is getting too wide for the stock rim.
ac
 

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+1 on the stick to 160 rear.

you are on the wrong bike if you care about your tire width.

laterz

Q
 

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avc8130 said:
I know it is a common question.  And the common answer is that it will ruin the handling of the bike.  The skinny 160 lets the bike turn quick.  If you go with a 180 you will slow that handling. 
"Common answer" doesn't mean "correct answer". ;) My race bike turns plenty quick with a 180 rear tire.
 

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avc8130 said:
And how high is your rear?  How low is your front?  How much tuning do you have into your suspension?  :p
High, relatively high, lots. 8) Tire profile makes a much greater difference in turn-in than width. I'm running a TD1800 slick.
 

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avc8130 said:
I know it is a common question.  And the common answer is that it will ruin the handling of the bike.  The skinny 160 lets the bike turn quick.  If you go with a 180 you will slow that handling.  Sure, you want a 180?  Do an F3 wheel swap and throw one on.  The stock rim is a little narrow for that.  i think you could go 170 at best, but even that is getting too wide for the stock rim.
ac
Do you know this from experience?? I know from experience and it has not slowed turn in enough to even notice a difference to me.
 

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avc8130 said:
And how high is your rear?  How low is your front?  How much tuning do you have into your suspension?  :p
Poor point to make. How many people on this board with stock tire size drop the front triples to get faster turn in?? How many have bought or made new dog links to raise their rear on their stock bikes? New shocks with adjustable rear ride height? Jarel is 100% correct in that tire profile is a big factor when switching. There are flat 180's and there are V-shaped ones that give you more tread when tipped over than upright. The issue with these threads are the voice of inexperience that come out. "It won't work cause someone else said it won't so I'll repeat it as first hand knowledge". The truth of the matter is you would have to be a seasoned rider (years/mileage under your belt) or a racer/track whore to really notice the difference. With my 180 and CBR rim I have noticed that the biggest issue with a larger rear tire is finding the right pressure to make the rear feel compliant on turn in. That and the 208 Dunlop needs a tread pattern.
 

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Still won't help you corner faster, no matter what it does for or against turn-in. The reason for a fatter tire is to handle more horsepower. You want the narrowest tire that will handle the horsepower of the bike. Look at real racing bikes and look at how skinny racing tires are on bikes with 60 HP. If fatter = better then the people with the bottomless pockets would be using them. They don't flinch at $20,000 forks.
 

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I agree with the wider tire to power ratio on 600SS and 1K's. But, to think that the SV would not benefit from that extra contact patch is wrong in my eyes. And has been proven by countless racers too, as has the 160 race tire too. So it looks to be right and wrong then. My point is that there is nothing wrong with it, and when set up right it will work just as good as stock.
 

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Omaha,
I agree totally that setup right, with the right profile you can make anything work. But why? I am curious. Usually speaking wider tires are for bikes that make more power and corner harder. If you are riding on the street with a pipe you would probably never need any more than the 160. Now, if you are on the track, dragging your knee at 100+ making 90+ hp then I could see justifying the 180. Of course, a 180 does look cool.
ac
 

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Am I the only one who has thought of rotational mass and rolling resistance... The extra weight from a larger rim and tire act as a mechanical force that tends to retard or oppose motion!!! Why when you are trying to shave one pound in the main body would you add to a place that one pound in motion is worth 5 pounds not?!?!

its called - bling factor! Get over the thought of wider tire is cool and then you will see that it really does nothing but harm you... I am not a racer, so take it for what its worth, I am just well versed in physics.
 

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Jared McDonley said:
Am I the only one who has thought of rolling resistance... The extra weight from a larger rim and tire act as a mechanical force that tends to retard or oppose motion!!! Why when you are trying to shave one pound in the main body would you add to a place that one pound in motion is worth 5 pounds not?!?!

its called - bling factor! Get over the thought of wider tire is cool and then you will see that it really does nothing but harm you... I am not a racer, so take it for what its worth, I am just well versed in physics.
It's also more rotational mass on the rear wheel which reduced HP at the rear wheel too. More mass to spin takes more energy. So not only are you makeing a slower turning bike your also making it just plain slower in a straight line. Granted it's could be tenths or hundredths of a second slower but isn't the name of the game to go faster???
 

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Nexus242 said:
It's also more rotational mass on the rear wheel which reduced HP at the rear wheel too.  More mass to spin takes more energy.   So not only are you makeing a slower turning bike your also making it just plain slower in a straight line.  Granted it's could be tenths or hundredths of a second  slower but isn't the name of the game to go faster??? 
HEHEH rotational mass thats what I was really meaning... ;D
 

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jarelj said:
I have a Marchesini magnesium 6" rear wheel, it's quite a bit lighter than the stock SV wheel.  :p
You want a cookie or a metal? j/k :p

If I have the $$$ I prob would have one too.
 

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andyauger said:
The reason for a fatter tire is to handle more horsepower.  You want the narrowest tire that will handle the horsepower of the bike.
weight of the bike is a factor too...
 
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