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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyone else getting this?
ive gone through a handful of mufflers and i dont know why
Micron- ate packing (expected) re packed and ate it again but this time blew out the rubber seal on both ends
Micron- got a new one from them..same thing..blew out the seals first
Micron-carbon...blew a hole the size of idaho in the side of it...4 laps in.
MIG- carbon/kevlar....see above
Holeshot- this one lasted the longest...but i baked the powder coat off. Dale said hes never seen anything like it
Holeshot- Dale rebuilt it with a SS sleeve instead of the powder coat....blew a hole in it.....thats right...a HOLE
Holeshot- custom rebuild from dale...we put header wrap around the core. i havent taken it apart yet but im pretty sure it all gone with the packing.

i need something new:D
 

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Maybe your mixture is too rich and fuel vapors are collecting and igniting in the can causing 'splosions
This is what I meant. If you want to keep it that rich, plugging the pair system and making sure the whole exhaust system is sealed with RTV will help stop the 'splosions.
 

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I got 30k miles on my Holeshot and it has the "patina" of wear but functions like the day I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i think it flames already. it idles at 3k-3500 and backfires AFTER i shut it off.
the good thing is....even the people in front of me can hear me...it throws them off knowing im on their a$$ :D
 

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Whatever the case, fuel is getting past the exhaust valve enough to reach stoichiometric ratios (14/1?). It could be that it's just plain rich, improper atomization, incomplete combustion, excessive valve overlap or something else. If the engine occasionally misfires that could do it also.

A stuck float bowl could cause excessive richness. Does it ever leak fuel? Is there anything that causes it not to happen, or to happen?

What is for sure is that you are reaching combustible fuel/air ratios in the exhaust. Getting the bike dyno tuned by a reputable shop should fix this as they would have an exhaust gas analyzer. Since something is definitely wrong you will net more power as well.

Expensive, but so is an endless procession of replacement cans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Whatever the case, fuel is getting past the exhaust valve enough to reach stoichiometric ratios (14/1?). It could be that it's just plain rich, improper atomization, incomplete combustion, excessive valve overlap or something else. If the engine occasionally misfires that could do it also.

A stuck float bowl could cause excessive richness. Does it ever leak fuel? Is there anything that causes it not to happen, or to happen?

What is for sure is that you are reaching combustible fuel/air ratios in the exhaust. Getting the bike dyno tuned by a reputable shop should fix this as they would have an exhaust gas analyzer. Since something is definitely wrong you will net more power as well.

Expensive, but so is an endless procession of replacement cans.
no fuel leaks.
its been a while since the carbs were synchd. i should probably do that. jetting should be close. i had it done in AZ (sea level) and im not much above that now although air density is much different.
dyno tune i think is the final way to go.
 

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no fuel leaks.
its been a while since the carbs were synchd. i should probably do that. jetting should be close. i had it done in AZ (sea level) and im not much above that now although air density is much different.
dyno tune i think is the final way to go.
I think there is a lot of room for improvement that doesn't need a dyno. Go back to stock jetting to begin with and see if is still running rich. You might have a problem larger then it needing tuning. Or, whoever set it up set it really, really rich.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
no i was there when jetting was done. i also use to have access to a dyno and it was near perfect in A/F category whenever i ran it. of course this was before i moved out of the desert and before a couple other mods.
 

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no i was there when jetting was done. i also use to have access to a dyno and it was near perfect in A/F category whenever i ran it. of course this was before i moved out of the desert and before a couple other mods.
If you have access to a dyno it's the best way to go. When things are multifactorial like this a complex approach like dyno tuning will get to the bottom of it much quicker.

If you had more time than money, or no acess to a dyno returning to stock settings and going back would be the right approach.
 
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