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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installing the Evotech Fender Eliminator

This is a well designed fender eliminator - all the wiring is plug and play, and there is no cutting involved! That being said, there isn't a decent guide out there for installing it, so I figured I would post my process.

For completeness, this is going to be a full guide, but the first part of the instructions are largely the same as this thread:
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=106525

Tools:
4mm allen wrench
6mm allen wrench
8mm socket
10mm socket
12mm socket
3" socket extension was helpful
philips head screwdriver
ratchet is optional, but helpful

1. Get all your tools ready and set up an area to place all the parts you remove from the bike.

2. Take a good long look at your current fender and commit this to memory for future comparison. Camera optional.



3. Begin by removing the side covers with a 4mm allen wrench.



4. Remove the front seat with a 6mm allen wrench, undoing the bolts toward the front of the seat. Remove the pillion seat, toolkit, and battery (philips head).

5. Remove the grab rail using a 12mm socket.



6. Unscrew the pillion seat release cable from the subframe using a 5mm allen wrench. Disconnect the cable from the seat release mechanism.



7. Disconnect the tail light, license plate light, and both signals. Unhook the fuse box from its little plastic mounts, as they won't exist soon!



8. Remove the tail by undoing the 4 philips head screws, and then unclipping the 4 push pins. The pins come out easily - just depress the center with a screwdriver and then pull them out. Locations are shown below.




9. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the under-tray in place using a 10mm socket. Two of these are hidden behind the wiring harness in the front on either side. Pull the undertray down so you can get to the 4 bolts that hold the fender in place.




This one is a pain to find so here's a close up.


10. Make sure the tail light, plate light, and signal wires are disconnected, then remove the 4 bolts holding the fender in place using a 10mm socket and take that sucker off.




Parting ways.


11. Swap your signals, license plate light, and license plate onto the new fender using 8mm socket, philips head, and 10mm socket. Screw locations below.


Don't forget to take the gaskets, as they are re-used in the new fender.


Back of new fender with everything installed. Note the license plate mounting bracket location. This arrangement brings the plate all the way up to the light, so if you want to install the red reflector between the light and plate, don't align them like this.


12. Put the sealing plate on the top rear of the under-tray with the neoprene side facing down.



13. Connect the new fender using the original 4 mounting bolts (10mm socket) and screw the sealing plate to the fender. Route the light wires through the indentations in the sealing plate and then in between the fender and the sealing plate.



Be careful, and don't overtighten the fender bolts. They snap easily. Oh well, 3 out of 4 ain't bad ;)


Pay attention to the wiring.


14. Bolt the undertray back in. You're an expert by now, so no pics, but if you need a refresher, it's the opposite of step 9.

15. Put the tail back on. Opposite of step 8.

16. Connect the tail light, license plate light, and signal lights. Opposite of step 7.

17. Connect the pillion seat release cable and bolt it back down. Step 6 backwards.

18. Connect the grab rail. Step 5 backwards.

19. Connect the pillion seat, put the toolkit back, screw in the battery, and put the front seat back on.

20. Add back the side covers.

21. Walk behind, in front of, and to both sides of the bike, and marvel at how much better it looks than stock! :thumbsup:




That's it!
 

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One thing I REALLY dislike about this FE is that the turn signals are so loose and wobbly. I noticed yours sit the same way as mine, I wonder if I were to have gotten the after-market signal kit if it would still be wobbly or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yes, I was noticing that as I was putting those bolts back on. I'm going to make some shims for those eventually, but for now they're alright I suppose. They can't rotate more than a degree or two :D

Eventually I'll be taking them off altogether in favor of tail light integrated turn signals, so not a huge concern.
 

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Excellent guide. Especially removing the plastics... I wanted to do this a while back but couldn't figure out how to remove the tail!

Thanks!
 

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Wow - I never found those two front bolts holding on the undertray when installing my FE. I just removed the rear two bolts and pulled the undertray out from underneath the fender. Worked. But seeing this earlier would have saved me 30 minutes of confusion searching (and failing) to find those suckers.
 

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Great walk through guide. thanks so much for taking the time to do this. i just used it to do mine and it would have taken me so much longer without this guide.
cheers mate
 

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get rizoma signals

no wobbling whatsoever with my setup, very bright while being low-profile.



One thing I REALLY dislike about this FE is that the turn signals are so loose and wobbly. I noticed yours sit the same way as mine, I wonder if I were to have gotten the after-market signal kit if it would still be wobbly or not.
 

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The FE that you ordered/have though, is it the "mini" or "standard" turn signal version?

I have the standard version and have been looking for a way to get any sort of "mini" stalk turn signal to mount up to the FE.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
They sell adapters for the standard version to run the mini signals, I think 11 bucks for the set - search ebay for evotech sv650.
 

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Can people who've installed this kit give examples of how much time you should block out to complete it in a single session?
 
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