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That doesn't sound so good to me. Since you're in there....might as well pull the basket for a closer inspection. At least remove the springs and hat so you can feel how much play the basket actually has without the spring pressure holding things together. The cushion springs can break plus the rivets holding it together can and will eventually get loose which causes lots of bad sounds. Would suck bad to rebuild the motor only to put the bad clutch basket back on...wouldn't it? Fresh basket can cure many ills and is WAY easier than trying to do internal engine work. Best of luck! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Okay a few updates. I pulled off the basket and there no play between the basket and the gear. None of the springs are broken although only one or two of them were actually tight. Afterwards I realized that when I drained the rest of the oil in a pan there there was metal shavings in the pan. But it’s possible it’s from something that was pulled in the shop before this. Definitely looked like bearing flakes though from so I pulled the topends off and I found no play in the rods. I almost think the front one may feel a little squishy though so im not sure if I should pull the bottom end apart and check the bearings or where I should go next.

I was definitely pleasantly surprised with how good of shape the pistons and cylinders were in. The timing chains did seem a little loose though. I Let the tensioners come all the way out then pushed back in and there was only 2 or 3 mm gap between it and the cylinder on both sides. Not sure if this is normal but this is definitely less than the 400ex’s we build at work and seems to me the tensioners are about out of room to work with.

So I guess I’m just asking what you all think I should do next and if the chains are still good?


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The clutch springs are progressive so only a couple should be touching until it loads them a bit which then brings in the other springs. Where was the play you were feeling before taking off the basket? It's hard to describe but moving the basket in and out doesn't sound right as well as being able to move the drive gear. The bevel gears will load the basket toward the case under power and conversely try to pull the basket out when engine braking....where you said you hear the noise. Is the crankshaft drive gear tight? We had some problems with the 1K's with the drive gears coming loose...something to check. Is the drive a split gear? Just seems like the drive gears should be tight...but I'm not up to speed on the 650's...perhaps others could chime in here?


Doesn't the service manual have a measurement for the chains? I had my top end apart (SV1K) at about 15,000 and put in fresh chains just because and kept the originals for spares. It can get pricey, but the old adage 'when in doubt, throw it out' might be applicable here. Your original posts said the engine has 14,000'ish miles? But the oil hadn't been maintained which can be hard on chains. Is there any wear on the chain guides? My guides had visible marks but not enough wear to actually feel so I left them in...perhaps if you have some grooves it would be good to put in fresh. Of course the 1K's have a different setup with dual chains driving jack gears but if the tensioners are getting to the end of travel it seems that fresh guides and chain would be in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The clutch springs are progressive so only a couple should be touching until it loads them a bit which then brings in the other springs. Where was the play you were feeling before taking off the basket? It's hard to describe but moving the basket in and out doesn't sound right as well as being able to move the drive gear. The bevel gears will load the basket toward the case under power and conversely try to pull the basket out when engine braking....where you said you hear the noise. Is the crankshaft drive gear tight? We had some problems with the 1K's with the drive gears coming loose...something to check. Is the drive a split gear? Just seems like the drive gears should be tight...but I'm not up to speed on the 650's...perhaps others could chime in here?


Doesn't the service manual have a measurement for the chains? I had my top end apart (SV1K) at about 15,000 and put in fresh chains just because and kept the originals for spares. It can get pricey, but the old adage 'when in doubt, throw it out' might be applicable here. Your original posts said the engine has 14,000'ish miles? But the oil hadn't been maintained which can be hard on chains. Is there any wear on the chain guides? My guides had visible marks but not enough wear to actually feel so I left them in...perhaps if you have some grooves it would be good to put in fresh. Of course the 1K's have a different setup with dual chains driving jack gears but if the tensioners are getting to the end of travel it seems that fresh guides and chain would be in order.
The crankshaft drive gear is tight. The entire basket assembly would move in and out just a mm or so. Just enough to feel. I couldn’t feel any play between individual pieces of the basket assembly except for the ring around the outside of the basket.

I have ordered a manual but it has not came in yet. I didn’t know it had a section on checking the chain but that makes sense. I actually did not think to check the guides but I will do this on Monday or Tuesday. Is it possible what I was hearing was the chains being loose? It really sounded more like a clang to me though so idk


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A millimeter is .039" which is a LOT of play....and certainly more than 'just enough to feel'. My 'just enough to feel' is about .002" and yours being this loose is something I'd be concerned about. If the thrust bearings are worn a bunch of weird noises could be made. My SV basket has no discernible play in and out just for the record. With the bevel drive gear pushing and pulling on the basket it could run quietly under power but then pull the basket out under decel where you're hearing the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
A millimeter is .039" which is a LOT of play....and certainly more than 'just enough to feel'. My 'just enough to feel' is about .002" and yours being this loose is something I'd be concerned about. If the thrust bearings are worn a bunch of weird noises could be made. My SV basket has no discernible play in and out just for the record. With the bevel drive gear pushing and pulling on the basket it could run quietly under power but then pull the basket out under decel where you're hearing the noise.
It may not have been a full mm as I did not measure. But if it’s supposed to have no play it definitely did have just enough to feel. The only thing is I could also hear it on acceleration below 4K or so. What would be worn for it to still be a little loose while the nut is tight anyway?


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