I can't speak to your exact problem, but the one time I experienced bogging with sudden throttle input, I had replaced the stock exhaust with a Chinese slip-on and the same bogging happened. It went away when I put the original exhaust back on, so I tried the slip-on again and used a heavy-duty foil wrap on the joint to prevent the leak and the bogging didn't come back. Perhaps you have an air leak from the air box?

 

I run on Chinese slip on too, it might be the problem, also the IAP hose are cracked due too repeatedly removing and installing it using flat head. Any guess why the speed is slow?

 

on the standard factory 15/46 gearing, 7,000rpm in 5th gear should read about 138km/h on the speedo, so something is definitely wrong.

 

I suspect that there is a problem with the throttle because of what I did. What should I do?

 

If you really are reading 100km/h at 7,000rpm, then either something with the speedometer is faulty or your clutch is slipping under load.

On standard 15 / 46 final drive gearing, the Gen 3 5th gear is about 19.2km / 1000rpm. So 100km/h in 5th should see 5,250rpm.

Do you have a check engine light or a fault code?

 

If you really are reading 100km/h at 7,000rpm, then either something with the speedometer is faulty or your clutch is slipping under load.

On standard 15 / 46 final drive gearing, the Gen 3 5th gear is about 19.2km / 1000rpm. So 100km/h in 5th should see 5,250rpm.

Do you have a check engine light or a fault code?

Check engine light appears when I remove the airbox from the bike and putting it back. It goes away when the bike runs for a long time. I don't know if that's normal or not. I think I suspect the clutch also because its hard to shift to second, sometimes when the bike is on second gear it goes to neutral without me touching the shift lever. Is that a symptoms of clutch slipping? I should not have any of this problems because the bike is only 1800km on odo.

 

No, you definitely shouldn't. Didn't you say that something else had happened to the bike so they wouldn't fix it under warranty? The gear itself wouldn't be a slipping clutch. The way to test that would be to start the bike out slow, like at around 30-40km/h, and then put it in 5th gear and go full throttle. If the engine revs increase quickly, but your speed only increases slowly, that's a slipping clutch.

The ISC motors and flaps are only for idle speed, so they shouldn't affect you while riding. Definitely look for and eliminate air leaks, and make sure the air intake temperature and pressure sensors aren't damaged.

If you need 7k rpm to go 100kp/h, that can also be a sign the bike is down on power. Either working against something like a dragging brake or bearing, or just not producing the power needed properly.

 

Yes, My warranty is voided because when I got in an accident about 6 months before, I was the one who installed the new throttle cables. The dealer said that I shouldn't modify or replace any parts on the bike because the warranty will be voided. I will try what you said, cruise at 30-40 km/h on full throttle.

So the ISC doesn't affect the speed? how about the IAP Hose because the 2 IAP hose in my bike are cracked at the end because of repeatedly removing and installing it on the bike. The Air Intake temperature and pressure sensors are not damaged. I checked on it, it was not damaged in visual inspection.

I will check the bearings. The brakes I don't know, sometimes it squeaks when I roll the bike sometimes it does not. I also tried to access the bike in dealer mode but no faulty codes, it only says C00. Do you think I need to sync something?

 

The way I would test those intake hoses would be to crack open a propane torch head and then wave it around them while the engine was running. If the revs go up a bit, you know they're leaking. And yes, the ISC should only come into play at idle, when the throttle plate is closed. I also don't think it's mainly a sync issue. That's more for fine-tuning than anything...

As for your voided warranty, the dealer is full of crap as for you just putting new cables on. I don't know the rules in your country, though. Maybe check to see if you have a Consumer Protection Act/Law? Usually the dealers are nice enough they would see that the cables shouldn't have anything to do with affecting your warranty coverage. But here in North America I've seen dealers deny warranty coverage for something like a radio, because aftermarket wheels were installed on the car...

 

I tried changing the slip on exhaust to stock, it changed slightly. It only bogs ones or rarely.

 

Well, that's something to go on. Assume the stock exhaust is more restrictive than the other one, though it shouldn't be by too much. That would link the bogging to a lean condition, so yes, if extra air were getting sucked into the system (cracked air hoses?) that would do it. Are your exhaust pipes a bit discoloured at the headers?

 

 

can I use butane as replacement for propane when testing for air leaks? I don't have propane on my home. What do you mean discoloured headers? like the one side is more darker than the other headers? if so, no, The headers from one side is the same as the other side.

 

I already mentioned this above, but your symptoms are exactly like the symptoms I had when I had an exhaust leak at the slip-on clamp.
The stock exhaust comes with a thick exhaust gasket that fits perfectly inside the pipe and completely seals the exhaust at the clamp.
That gasket can not be used on a slip on due to the inner diameter of the slip-on being too small for the outer diameter of the gasket, it will destroy the gasket.
My fix was to take high temp/heavy duty aluminum foil and cut a bunch of strips to fit in place of the stock gasket. I assumed I'd need a few but the gap was so small that only one layer of aluminum foil would fit otherwise it just crumpled up or tear as I put the slip-on back on.
That resolved all my issues with hesitation and bogging.

 

He's asking about the color of your exhaust because yellowing on stainless is caused by the interaction between oxygen, chromium and heat. It's an indication you could be running lean and your exhaust temp is higher than normal.

 

Yes. When running lean, the metal right around the exhaust ports can turn blue/purplish. It's noticeable. And you should be able to use butane instead of propane. Any gas that burns more readily than petroleum will cause the rpms to rise. And you don't need much. I only cracked the nozzle of a propane torch just a little, enough to barely hear the 'hiss' of gas when running the tip around the hoses/gaskets.

 

This is what the exhaust looks like. The middle picture looks scratched because when I was riding a plastic bag flew under and stuck to this part of exhaust. Removed some big debris with knife and for some other tiny plastic that got stuck I used 1000grit sand paper

 

I got my '22 with 1 mile on the clock. The pipes changed colors on the way home, about 60 or 70 miles.
Zero problems with the bike. This is today. I thought they were a bit more blue when I got it home, actually.

 

I got my '22 with 1 mile on the clock. The pipes changed colors on the way home, about 60 or 70 miles.
Zero problems with the bike. This is today. I thought they were a bit more blue when I got it home, actually.

View attachment 75257

Do you think the color of the headers of my bike indicates that it is running right or its running lean? The pictures is on my reply to troy jollimore

 

For comparison, in the showroom with 1 mile.

 

The underpiping wouldn't show you, but your pics coming right out of the heads looked okay. You can REALLY tell if they're seriously discoloured.

 

So the engine runs okay? not lean nor rich?

 

The discoloration comes from being excessively lean, and REALLY hot exhaust gases going out those headers. So it shouldn't be running lean enough to damage anything.

 

so it's running lean but not lean enough to damage anything? Also I noticed that When I ride my bike it is hot on the legs. If I try to ride with shorts only, it so hot that, it is uncomfortable to grip the tank with my legs. but the temp gauge only shows 3 bars which is normal. I dont know if that heat that is uncomfortable is normal. When I ride with gear, I can feel less heat compared to no gear.

 

The bikes are usually tuned a bit on the lean side to help pass Emissions testing. That would be my guess. I'm not sure on the heat, as I've only ridden mine in jeans. It's still pretty 'cool', though. I think I've only ever felt heat from the pipes/engine either on a really cool day, or on a really hot one when sitting in traffic. I for sure don't have the bogging you describe, though.

 

When I started riding all bikes had chrome pipes. Naturally when I bought my Gen3 I wanted the same so out came the solvol.

Dull, tarnished pipes make a bike look old, imho.

My bike at about 7 years old, looks pretty much the same now (different seat) at 9 years 43k miles.

Sorry to have derailed the post.

 

The hand soap? Or something from GB I don't know about in Canada?

 

So the bogging is gone or still there? It took me a few attempts to make sure the slip-on was fully sealed before my bogging stopped, and since it went fully away whenever I put the OEM exhaust with gasket on, I knew it was the problem.

As for the speedo being wrong, have you looked into the speed sensor?

 

It is still there even if I put back the stock pipe. It bogs when the engine is at operating temp or when I ride for too long. It is also noticeable when putting it at first gear, applying throttle and clutch at the same time at stop.

 

That's exactly how mine acted when I had the exhaust leak. Really evident accelerating from stop in 1st gear and even more evident when it was hot.

Have you checked to see if there are any diagnostic codes on it?

 

I tried it and it say no codes (C00). my guess is that the bit that got stuck on the airbox clamp that keeps slapping on the secondary valve linkage affected the bike. Can I reset how the secondary valve moves? I feel like I need to adjust something.